Tuscany South March 27 – April 11, 2007 This trip was perfect for us. It had just enough structure for us to feel comfortable and lots of free time to explore. We arrived at the airport in Florence and Harriet and the bus were there to whisk us off to Siena to get our cars. The bus driver gave us the grand tour through Florence and we were off to a wonderful start. Our apartment was in Murlo and our landlady, Sarah, was at the car pickup to lead us ‘home’. Our first challenge came when we arrived at the walls of Murlo and neither Frank nor I were going to drive that lovely car they gave us, through the very narrow definitely uphill opening in the wall of the city. Sarah helped us out. It took a couple of days for us to get used to the stick shift, the narrow openings in the walls of all the cities, and especially the Italians who drove like race car drivers – cutting through all the endless curves on the road. Soon we were doing it too. Murlo was beautiful beyond my ability to describe it. For two weeks we felt as if we were living on a movie set. Our apartment was lovely and very comfortable and Sarah and Camillo, our landlords who lived next door, were delightful. They brought us herbs from their garden and one night they invited us to dinner. A delicious dinner and a wonderful opportunity to talk to them about the area. – and our families, of course. The Etruscan Museum in the center of the walls draws many tourists. It is a good museum and I highly recommend it. What was amusing was watching the tourists walk around the town and stop to take a picture of our house. It was so picturesque. Another plus for us in Murlo was the free internet available at the Tourist Information Office directly across from our apartment. Sarah showed us around the apartment. Untours had supplied a good Tuscan bread, some eggs, butter, milk, coffee, Pecorino cheese, proscuitto cotto, and a bottle of local wine. Sarah gave us a traditional sweet Easter bread in the shape of a cross and a cruet of extra virgin olive oil from their olive trees. The Untours company is quite impressive. They do think of everything that you might need. Harriet and Sarah provided our orientation the next day at Fattoria Pieve a Salti where we all also had lunch. They both speak perfect English. Harriet is American, and Sarah is British, though both have lived most of their lives in Italy. That our trip was so delightful is due in large part to the wonderful support we received from these two special people. The maps and tips they gave us were invaluable. We also constantly used the On Site Guide and other materials that Untours sent to us before the trip. We took advantage of all the options that Untours offered and all were worthwhile. *We went to an Olive Mill and had a truffle tasting lunch afterwards. *We went to il Poggioli in Buonconvento where we each cooked part of the meal that we then ate. It was fun. But I don’t think I will ever make pici pasta at home. Delicious, but too much work. *We went for a guided visit to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore followed by a very nice lunch at Ristorante La Torre di Monte Oliveto. I was so impressed with the Abbey that we went back for Midnight Mass on Easter Saturday even tho I am not Catholic. Just want you to know that the Gregorian Mass with chanting started at 11PM and they were just getting to communion at 1:15AM when I left with a few other people. Then we had to climb the half mile up the dark mountain to where our cars were parked and drive back home on very dark roads. It was an experience I will not soon forget. Our landlady, Sarah arranged an outing to a sheep farm where we saw how the sheep are milked and how the cheese is made and tasted pecorino cheeses – for hours! It was delicious. I carried 2 wheels of cheese home with me in my luggage. No problema (as the Italians say). Now I wish I had bought more. My personal favorite town was Pienza. Charming and beautiful beyond description. Great gelato too. We went to Siena twice and I could have gone there again. I bought a dual ticket to the museum and the tower. I love views and have climbed many mountains to see a view, but I had to turn around part way up this tower. It was so claustrophic. The spiral staircase was so tight that they make you check all your bags and pocketbooks. You are only allowed to carry a camera. I also recommend visiting San Gimignano, Bagno Vignoni, and the Abbey of San Galgano. We had been to Florence and Rome on another trip, so we spent our two weeks in the hill towns and still did not get to see everything I wanted to see. There is so much to see. Our most memorable eating experience was at Campreano in Radi, between Murlo and Siena. Ranuccio Neri is charming. The meal was outstanding. We had the lightest, best ravioli I have ever eaten. The main course was wild boar – delicious. The wines that accompanied the meal were from the property. All were very good. The Chianti Reserva was excellent. You have to make reservations at least a day in advance. Other restaurants we’d recommend: Pepe in Siena – behind the museum The Pizzeria in Murlo is excellent – the best thin crust pizza ever. But believe it or not, you need reservations. A difficult thing for us was getting into the eating schedule. So many times we would be looking for a place to eat between 2 and 7 pm and there is not much open. We were told that on Easter Sunday everybody stays home with their families. So we drove to Argentario – on the coast. We couldn’t get a parking space! Finally wound up in Porto Ercole which was lovely. The wines we drank were all local and excellent and cheap. My only regret is that I did not try a Brunello (which is not cheap, even in Tuscany). If you are reading this in preparation for your trip, know that you are in for a treat - magnificent countryside, warm, friendly people, and delicious food and wine. Happy travels. Ciao, Rosalie Simari Charlottesville, VA