Austria Untour, Summer 2001
by Vance & Barbara Roy, Sachseln, Switzerland
18 July 2001
It was rainy and dark when we left home in Sachseln. This was an Untour Wednesday, and new Untourists would be arriving very soon to begin a Swiss adventure. Barbara and I were excited because we were to travel to Golling in Austria for our own Untour in that country. The rains came down, as we drove to the Swiss-Austrian border, crossed over, bought our autobahn sticker and headed toward Golling. Golling is one of the villages south of Salzburg where Untour landladies play host to Untourists every summer.We took a scenic route hoping that we could outrun the bad weather. We did this and rode along valley floors flanked with tall green mountains against a partly cloudy sky. Most of these peaks were shrouded with caps of high mist and fog. The marvels of mountain highways and tunnels are significant in Austria.
We arrived in Golling and found the home of Heinz and Hannelore Spitzer that was also to be our home for the next two weeks. These folks were the first Austrian Untour hosts, who began their association with Idyll seventeen years ago. They met us at the door with profuse greetings in very good English. The luggage was lugged, and we enjoyed a tour of their upper apartment. It looked every bit as nice as the Untour website's photos, and the Spitzer's warmth added a lot. An apricot cake on the kitchen table didn't hurt a bit either.
After settling in a bit, we took Heinz up on offer of a ride in his car around the area. We got the lay of the land very nicely. We also got a run down on local attractions and the best gossip on where to find good Austrian and other restaurants in Golling and its neighbor village of Kuchl. It was a nice way to scout local sights, to plan return visits. After returning "home," we enjoyed a tour of the garden with Heinz. He says he isn't a green thumb, but the backyard garden area has profuse flowers, herbs, berries, and vegetables to indicate otherwise. We had a bit of a tasting as we went. He also grows Edelweiss from seed! There must 200 of these little charmers in pots and boxes.
Then it was in our kitchen to have a supper from the bread, ham, cheese, jam, and other goodies that had been provided. Topped off with some of that apricot cake, it hit the spot. After a bath and putting these thoughts in the computer, we were ready to crash under those soft duvets covering the bed. Up tomorrow, as all good Untourists, to head over to the Untours orientation in Kuchl with our train schedule books and Austrian guide in hand. It had been eight years since I had been an Untourist. For Barbara, it was her first. We both were excited.
19 July 2001
We got up to gray skies that got beautiful in spite of the weather report. After some good Austrian coffee along with bread and homemade jam and while Barbara got organized, I made it off to the ATM and to scout out Golling. The village was just beginning to open, but I looked at store windows and read restaurant menus after getting some Schillings at the bank.Next, we made our way to the train station to get the train to Kuchl and our orientation with Terry Seiwald. Terry is what can be called a short drink of water. She is all of four+ feet tall. She was dressed in a typical Austrian lady's costume, and learned her English in Columbus, OH. Besides that, she is pretty. No one really believed her tale about being a wife and mother of nine- and ten-year old children. In any event, she knows her business. After meeting about a dozen other Untourists, we got down to business with lessons on train schedules, customs, and many other things to know about Austria and Untouring. For such a small person, Terry has a lot to do, does it well, and seems to have fun doing it.
After orientation, we went our various ways. This trip, we had no jet lag, so others may have planned naps; we planned lunch! A nice, but not remarkable lunch was enjoyed, and malnutrition was again avoided. A three minute train trip back to our village resulted in some grocery shopping. Then we explored some of Golling, which is a picturesque and out of another century sort of spot. We indulged in the long held Austrian custom of mid-afternoon "coffee and cake" at a local Konditorei. Just looking at the display cases makes my pants get tighter. We strolled the main street and found a very interesting wine store with an owner who had spent nine years in California. A few more stops and we were back down the hill to what was to be our home for the next two weeks.
Tomorrow, we are off for an Untours trip to the village of Hallstatt with Terry. Hallstatt was a favorite of ours when we last visited Austria, and it will be a treat to see it at a different time of year. Rail schedules have been made, and another day will be added to this Untour in this beautiful land.
20 July 2001
Up to steady rain, which did not deter us from making the Untours trip with Terry. About eight of us went with her on the train to the village of Hallstatt, and another four came by way of their cars. Those who went by car could sleep later but were unable to spend a day with this vivacious and knowledgeable lady. We made our way to Salzburg, got a lesson in train station protocol, on to Attaing-Stainang, with a second change, and then off at Hallstatt. The train depot at Hallstatt is across the lake from the village, which we reached by a small ferry.The rain continued, but with rain gear, we all managed to stay dry. Visits to the two museums, the church, the bone house, and other spots were capped off by a great lunch at the Green Tree Hotel. A variety of native Austrian dishes were served, too numerous to detail, except mine. Mine was called a Schwarzwurzel. The waiter said it was pork. Well, it was a large slice of a pork roast done nicely. Over it was served shredded fresh horseradish with shredded carrots and onions. A good Austrian red wine went well with this. We lunched with two new friends from New Orleans, and their meals all looked good to me. Afterwards in the hotel lobby, I happened upon a notice to a group of travelers there for the night as clients of Rick Steves' organization. First, let me say with respect, that I know nothing of Rick Steves or his abilities other than what I have seen on Idyllchat. Here was what I saw:
- Breakfast at 0730
- Meet here at 0815
- Bus leaves at 0830
- Arrive Mauthausen (a concentration camp museum) 1030
- Leave Mauthausen 1300
- Lunch on your own at a rest stop on the Autobahn
- To Vienna etc.
This lunch warmed us sufficiently to allow a bit of shopping before venturing back to the boat dock. Across the lake, we caught our train back toward home. Retracing our route was not hard. We could have chosen another route, but the arrival would have been late, and the weather remained distinctly 100% humid (read that rain).
On the way home, we had more chances to pick the brain of the small package with lots of power, named Terry, about all sorts of Austrian life and culture. I learned a lot. My thinking of Austria as an extension of Switzerland was a big mistake. The scenery can be similar, but not always. The people can be open and hospitable, and usually are genuinely glad that you are with them, and there are other comparisons. This country has its own culture, traditions, and customs. The Essenglocke, the May poles, the food, etc. I have a lot to learn!
So, tomorrow??? As yet, undecided. The weather promises to be better with sun and warmth now. We have so many things on our to do list that I feel like I did when I made my first trips to Switzerland. Too much. Many trips required. Many trips anticipated.
21 July 2001
A late morning. The rain continues, but the sky seems lighter. By noon, we are to have sun. So, while it was still gray and wet, we hit the grocery store before the closure for the weekend. We also visited the village butcher, and purchased some Leberkaese ( local meat preparation sold warm and great with some mustard) and some Pferdewurst, a salami type specialty made with horse meat ( yes, horse, and don't knock it unless you have tried it!) Then we journeyed back to our house to plan a trip to St. Gilgen.St. Gilgen is to have a festival today and tomorrow with food, crafts, and music. We trained to Salzburg, explored the excellent Austrian Postal Bus system, and arrived in this beautiful small lakeside village on the Wolfgang Lake. The weather turned beautiful as we went, so the village and lake married into a beautiful sight. We wandered a bit while waiting for the action to begin. This was the home of Mozart's mother and would warrant a return some day. We watched a whole pig roasted on the spit, had an Austrian coffee called a Melange, ate a chocolate creation called Chocotorte, later had a pretzel with two kinds of cheese spread, and of course sampled some good beer. If it sounds as if we waddled a bit, we did!
While in St. Gilgen, we ran into an Untour couple from Texas. We sat at long tables with the locals, while the festivities of music and folk dancing began. They invited us to return to Golling with them in their car, and we enjoyed a beautiful ride into the sunset, as we returned home.
Now it is time to sit on our balcony, ruminate in the view a bit, and plan a trip tomorrow to Berchtesgaden, The Eagles Nest, and the Koenigssee.
22 July 2001
Today was a long and wonderful day! Up and out to go into Germany and the Koenigssee first. Actually, this is just over a few hills from Golling and the other Untour towns. It can be reached by car or train/bus. One goes over the German border, which with the European Union is now little else but a line on the map. No passport was required (we took ours), and they take Austrian Schillings. Since it was Sunday and the weather was gorgeous, we expected crowds. They were there, but the people movers in this area are very efficient. No lines longer than half a dozen people. We bought boat tickets and took a wonderful ride. The Koenigssee is a high mountain lake situated near Berchtesgaden. It is absolutely pristine. Of the many boats to carry sightseers, ail are electric, so there is no pollution. The water is as clear as glass and a deep blue-green hue.During our ride, the steward of the boat pulled out a trumpet and played a tune in pieces of a few bars at a time. As he paused between the bars, one heard a perfect echo each time. Twice the tune for the money. There are a couple of stops along the 90 minute or so round trip. We saw a number of walkers along the banks. A crystal lake with no jet skis or wakes from high powered boats was a nice treat. The beautiful high mountain walls with waterfalls on each side added to the beauty here. We got off for about an hour to walk a few minutes to another much smaller separate lake at the end of a box canyon. Again, just as clear and clean but with only a few people seated on many benches soaking up the view.
Then it was lunch time! A short walk back toward the boat dock, and in the forest there was a nice restaurant with a huge patio. Venison goulash with spaetzle! Spatzle is a typical Germanic bread noodle dish that goes well with the gravy. This went down well with a grand German dark wheat beer. After lunch we strolled to the dock, where boats stop in every few minutes, to continue onward. The return was about 45 minutes, and we were entertained by a Hungarian tour while on the boat. These were the happiest sober folks that I can ever recall seeing. Next stop was to be The Eagle's Nest.
As most probably know, The Eagle's Nest was Hitler's Camp David type place. It was built as a fiftieth birthday present for him under the direction of Martin Bormann. To see it and its remoteness, one marvels that it was done in only thirteen months. It is situated on the Kehlstein peak at about 6000 feet. To reach it, one takes a bus at any number of spots after training to Salzburg, or driving to Obersalzburg. There, all take a bus up a narrow, well maintained road that is the only motorized access. At arrival, you enter a tunnel into the mountain and board a beautiful brass elevator for another 400 foot ride up to the large stone house. This carriage holds at least two dozen people. One can imagine The Little Corporal and his cronies around each corner. Well, maybe one must imagine hard, since after WW II, in order to prevent its destruction, the local mayor prevailed upon the Allies to spare the place being blown up. It is now a large restaurant. The rooms remain as laid out, but poor old Schicklegruber would have a cat if he could see it now. No museum or exhibit there, but they will sell you a video or book on the place.
I got the impression that the young Germans were aware of who it had housed (Hitler used it infrequently), but were there because of the beauty of the mountains around from that height and not a sense of history. This was the day to be at those heights because we could see just a bit past forever over the peaks to the south and Salzburg to the north. After a coffee and a Schmorle (sort of a white wine spritzer) on the huge patio, we took the elevator down, caught our bus, and returned to Obersalzburg.
Meanwhile, back in Golling, things were afoot. Heinz and Hannelore asked us to go up to a mountain hut nearby to see the sunset. Off we went with Heinz driving the back roads he has used for more than thirty years. After several "gawking" stops we wound up at a mountain hut restaurant consisting of one room and a patio. It is run from mid June until early fall by the sister of a former Austrian Olympic ski star. Looking westward, we could see some of the mountains where we had spent the day. While waiting for sunset, what to do but have a "snack"? A soup bowl filled with fresh local mushrooms in a sauce, and a large bread noodle sitting in the middle. For two people who weren't hungry, we made it disappear with ease.
After a "digestif" of apricot schnapps, the sun began to drop below the horizon. The colors were spectacular. The folks inside the hut were friendly and glad to see Americans so far off the beaten path. This was truly a treat, because there was no way we could have been there without the local knowledge and transport of Heinz and Hannelore. We both could see them as clones of our Swiss family, Albert and Berit.
23 July 2001
To Werfen today to see the castle/fort first. A good steep but short walk up through a shady wood got us there. Then a very interesting falconry demonstration with a variety of birds. The castle itself isn't worth it unless you take an extra tour. We didn't. The falconry part was fun, and the museum of falconry was well worth the whole thing. Just my thoughts. Anyway, on such a pretty day, we couldn't go wrong. By noon, we had made our way back to Golling and went over a short distance from town through a shady forest and into a beautiful area with a thundering torrent emanating from a lovely waterfall named after Golling. The cool mist and light breeze was Mother Nature's air conditioning at her best.Nearby, we found the Gasthof Humbertus. Lunch there was a treat out under the small trees. One could make a meal off their salad bar. Roast venison with another of those great "Knoedel" like I had last night for me, and a good looking Saibling fish in saffron sauce for Barbara. Saibling is evidently a variety of lake trout, so if you ever get close, try it. Dessert was no problem; we were too stuffed to consider it.
We headed back to home, as we were to meet Heinz and Hannelore, for a trip into Salzburg. They had explained that there would be music from the past music festivals presented to the public at no cost. Off we went with Heinz at the wheel. He is a marvel here in the country, and the same in Salzburg. Since he has been prowling the streets since he was a kid, he knows the places to park and not pay much, how to get to the best spots for photos, the back ways to the old town, and he likes to stop and pal around with the police, who all seem to love the USA. So, we found ourselves following the tour guide through this lovely city. It was also a good way to walk off some of our lunch. A stop was made to hear some young amateurs (wrong word to describe them I think) play Mozart under an archway. Then on to the Salzburger Dom, a majestic cathedral destroyed in WW II but rebuilt by 1959.
I am not much on old churches, but anyone not impressed by this one, had better look again. Another few minutes was spent seeing the side streets of the old city. I think an Untourist could spend two weeks here and only do an average job of seeing it all. With Heinz and Hannelore, we had an advantage. Time for music! On to the Domplatz in front of the cathedral, where a stage is set and seats arranged in an amphitheater. "Classics in Old Town" begins at 5 PM six days a week between today and 27 August, 2001. You can get a copy of the program at any tourist office in the area. One sits and listens to a FREE program of past performances of some of the great classical artists surrounded by the utmost in Salzburg's beauty. Even a guy from just south of Clod City like me can appreciate this!
As the sun dipped behind the hill, we strolled to an almost hidden beer garden for a "cool one" before crossing the Salzach River to see the Mirabell Gardens. This is a beautiful ever changing park on the new side of the Salzach with all sorts of gardens. No charge and a good spot to sit and watch the world go by. After a walk back over the river, we took and elevator to the top of the Moenchsberg with its fort that imposes over the whole city. All Heinz needs is a little flag to hold up for others to follow, in order to be an official guide. He knows the back ways and by ways. A walk along the ridge of the mountain, which is mostly a beautiful park, brought us back to the cheap neighborhood parking place. The trip back home in the dusk was full of reflections on our "Native's Tour of Salzburg". We are armed for our own day in Salzburg to come. We have made new friends.
24 July 2001
Plans changed today. We got up to graying skies and threats of showers, so a trip to high places was called off. Apropos with the weather, we traveled to Mauthausen near Linz to see the former German concentration camp there. The area is somewhat dismal but well marked. I don't think any German or Austrian we have been around is proud of this as an attraction, but I have a strong interest in WW II and all its history, so I was eager to go. I am glad that I did, but it isn't something one would want to do every week.I will place pics of this trip on a separate site in Yahoo, prefaced by an "M". If you don't care to look, do it anyway. To bypass it might mean that we could forget.
A few Schillings gets you in and a deposit of a driver's license gets you a tape in English to take the walking tour. Be prepared for starkness and graphic depiction (as it should be) of what happened here. This wasn't a "death camp", but that is if you don't call 10,000 people a month exterminated here a death camp. There is an excellent museum in which one could spend a day by itself. There is also an hour movie in English that gives a good background in understanding what went on here. The walking tour is not physically hard to do unless one wants to go up and down the "Death Steps" where the prisoners daily went to, and from, their quarry work.
One Untourist here with her two sons has gone to Dachau to let her children see what they have been studying in school. She could have well gone to the Mauthausen camp. Don't bring the grandkids to these places unless they are older. All others should do this, because we need reminding of inhumanity. On the other hand, it was gratifying to see that 75% or better of the German, Austrian, and other visitors were under thirty years of age; a lot were high school kids.
We are home now. Ready to go to a local music festival playing for some weeks here in Golling. It is one of the few times that Barbara has ever outrun me. She is up to the castle in a flash, all gussied up, as if she was going to the big city symphony. Tonight, we can see the dichotomy between what man can do as a beast in a concentration camp, and what he can do as a genius. Haydn, Mozart, and others did so much better than the SS guards and killers. We go this evening to the Golling Castle, where in a courtyard outside the museum, about the size of a tennis court, a hundred or less of us, surrounded by the high walls, we hear beautiful music from a string quintet of musicians from all over Austria, while sipping Sekt (German Champagne). We were the only ones there besides the Golling locals. They were so happy to have us come to the small festival. Not bad for about $10 a seat. Even for a guy who only knows fiddles from Tennessee Blue Grass, I may have been splattered with a bit of "culture" tonight. I think some of it may have stuck on me too.
Then home, to some pasta and bed. Tomorrow, the weather gods willing, we are off on the hoof.
25 July 2001
Today was to be a hiking day with Heinz and Hannelore. We were off at 8 AM with our new friends (old time Untourists) in the apartment below, in questionable weather which only got worse for awhile. The hike was postponed, and we took a tour of the village of Abtenau near Golling. The church and cemetery were interesting with most of the monuments being of wrought iron. We traveled on to Volgau to a huge furniture factory and showroom. They had everything from 1700 styles to modern. It was unusual to walk through this while being served schnapps in tiny cups! New way to break down sales resistance??When we came out, so had the sun (a little bit). We went to the Gosausee. This the first of a chain of lakes at about 3000 feet above sea level. There is a nice walk around the lake, but we went further onward to past another lake where we could see a rustic restaurant at the far end. With that as an incentive, our more primitive instincts led us to our goal. The walk is beautiful, and one is surrounded by walls of mountains which are shrouded in mists. After a light meal of various Austrian goodies, washed down with beer and an especially good drink called a "Radler" (mix 4 parts Sprite and 6 parts beer, it is good, and a nice way to get a beer taste without a sleepy feeling), we started back along the trail to the start of our walk. There, it was time for dessert. Do you get the idea that this crowd travels on its stomach? Exactamente! Blueberry sundaes, chocolate sundaes, blueberry cake, apple strudel with vanilla sauce, Capuccino, regular coffee, and a nice Austrian coffee called a Melange, were all an excellent attitude adjustment. The Dachstein Group and its glacier also came out to greet us.
Now on the balcony with prophylaxis against snake bite, I watch Heinz in his garden (an understatement) picking blueberries, the sun gleams on the mountain flanks of rock, all seems pretty doggoned right with the world. Tomorrow? As yet, who knows. One of the nice things about Untouring is the freedom to awake and decide and/or undecide, if you like. As do other Untourists, we feel very lucky to be here. As in Switzerland, we find the people to be warm and open. Lots of "Gruess Gott's" along the paths. Fun and banter when sitting together in restaurants. Genuine pleasure with Americans and admiration of our country (nice when you watch a lot of CNN Europe). It is hard to practice my German sometimes because they want to speak English. Then, they are happy to speak my "High German" when I ask. Heinz, on the other hand, would have me fluent if I could stay longer. He speaks slowly, asks if I understand, and is a teacher without knowing it. Switzerland is our home, but I am not going to want to leave Austria after only two weeks! I don't even have to go back to work, so I don't imagine how it must be for others. Sorry for touting; don't mean to do this. Once again the devil does it.
26 July 2001
We awoke to a crystal sky that said, "out and to the mountains." Today, we decided to drive over a toll road near Golling and go to the Wolfgangsee. The toll road took us over a beautiful "alm". This is the Austrian way of saying "alp". It was a great shortcut, and we would have missed a lot of scenery had we take the long way around. We got to the village of St. Wolfgang in about an hour where we found about ten jillion of our closest friends. It is holiday time and beautiful weather, so we weren't surprised. After a ten minute wait for tickets, we got a cog rail train up to the summit of the Schafsburg at a little over a mile high. The 360 view was spectacular. We found the seven lakes that one is supposed to see from there, and had a nice lunch.After the return trip down, we drove along the shore of the Wolfgangsee and on to the Fuschlsee and the village of the same name. Fuschl is nice. Smaller than the other lake villages but with quite a few nice shops and restaurants. It was coffee and cake time, so we stopped and indulged in a beer for Barbara and a creation of coffee, ice cream and whipped cream for me. Got to keep the old nutrition up, you know. Then we came back to Golling.
Upon getting out of the car, Heinz met us with an offer to try his cooking for the day. He had made a goulash. We sat with him on the balcony after he brought us two plates of yummy stew. I told him that I was going to post the recipe, so here it is:
Heinz Spitzer's Goulash
1 pound pork cubes seasoned with S&P and browned in a little oil or your favorite fat
1/2 pound of onions, chopped and browned with one toe of garlic, chopped
An envelope of goulash mix (if you don't have this use the ingredients below)
A crumbled bullion cube
Some ketchup or tomato paste, not much
Some mustard, not much
Some water to add liquid and cover the meat
Cook all this slowly for about two hours on a low heat.
Add a small potato that has been FINELY cubed (finer than you think,about 1/4 inch) after the first 90 minutes.
About 10 minutes before it is done, add a half cup of sour cream and mix well.
No goulash mix? Use sweet paprika, a pound instead of 1/2 pound of onions, and add a small amount of flour to the paprika to make about the volume of a packet of the mix. I think Knorr sells the mix in the USA. You could also try any stew mix with a couple of tablespoons of paprika thrown in.
If you want to use a pressure cooker before the sour cream and potatoes, adjust the times.
Heinz simply served his over a slice of good full-grain, dense, Austrian bread. Most won't have this, so rice or noodles might do well. If you don't like this, call me, and I know some folks that will take it off your hands.
Tomorrow, we are off with our Untour-mates below us to the Gross Glockner.
27 July 2001
Last night, while were talking to Heinz, Barbara asked him what was his favorite place in Austria. He said the Grosse Glockner was the spot. He gave me a map and showed a route in a grand circle for us to follow, pointing out good spots and those he considered too "touristy" for Untourists. We asked Joe and Sue to come with us. This is a route that can be done in part by train and bus, but since we had the car that had brought us from Switzerland, we took that to have more freedom in our schedule.It was another pristine postcard day in Paradise when we left Golling and went to the beginning of the high alpine toll road that leads one to the Gross Glockner and its many sister peaks. It is a marvelous mountain highway which is a very cheap toll for what it offers. There are numerous turn outs for gawking, several museums of flora and fauna, some good exhibits of alpine culture, and of course, some of the grandest views that one can see anywhere (remember, Barbara and I live in Switzerland and see mountains every day and all year long). The alps, the peaks, the hiking paths, and the whole picture are comparable to anywhere.
We drove onward to the top of one pass and then another. Then, another. Stops were made for visits to museums and exhibits which were quite detailed, pictures made, the crystal air enjoyed, and the majesty of the mountains observed. One finds a relativity in these places. Troubles, importance, and one's place in the scheme of things becomes adjusted. You know, none of us are as important as we think. Maybe mountains don't do that for everyone, but they do that for me. We reached the Grosse Glockner and parked. A walk to the upper areas revealed the glacier and the twin peaks of the small and the big Glockner. We watched small ants of people walk over the ice below. It is a lot to try and absorb at one time. Lots of well-deserved superlatives were heard and expressed.
Whenever we are in such environments as today's, one is struck by the silence around you. Five hundred people can be on one plateau or terrace, and yet one hears very little sound. Little chatter or people pollution. It is like the mountains are saying, "Listen to us, not yourselves." It is a collective that affects us all. You hear the wind, the crack of a glacier, and as today, you could almost hear the sun shine.
Again, the people movers do a great job. This was a beautiful day, and there were lots of people just like us there. The free parking made the cost of the toll a bargain. It enhances the joy of the trip. We never had a feeling of being in the herd.
So, then! It was past noon, and Heinz had given a lunch suggestion. At least a town in which to have lunch. We took that to mean that there wasn't a bad spot to eat. I doubt there was. Heinz knows whose chef is whose. Why he isn't a heavy weight, I don't know. We drove to Heilegeblut, a village a short distance down into a valley, where we enjoyed a nice lunch. The roast beef was tender beyond expectation, and my schnitzel was very good. The prices much below the peak restaurants too. Heinz is no dummy with his pocketbook.
Then, we began our circle homeward. Valleys and mountain passes alternated. Small towns and expressways were mixed. Heinz had given us a good recommendation for a "coffee and cake pause" in the village of Rennweg about five O'Clock. Oh Boy! Such good Austrian coffee creations! Starbucks should ever hope to come close! Wonderful to wash down the ice cream delights with fresh berries and "Schlag" (read that whipped cream that never met compressed gas). I think we were the only Americans that had hit the place that day. Austrians still remember the Americans as those who took away the horrors of WW II with a sense of justice and not revenge. I felt the welcome everywhere.
Up and homeward through small towns, big tunnels, and deep gorges with roaring water. Golling and home looked good. Eleven hours had passed in a short time. Heinz greeted us on the balcony with a knowing smile. The "Kaiser's weather" today and our reports gave him great pleasure. Not as much as ours!
28 July 2001
It is supposed to hit 90 F today, so we shuttered the house and headed to Werfen to the ice caves. We drove, but one can easily do this with busses from the train station. After the parking lots, one gets on a lift that rapidly moves up to the level of the cave. There is about a 15 minute uphill walk to the opening. Once there, the tour groups are formed and enter the cave. The guide calls for all English speakers to group together, and he gives information to them separately. Upon entering the cave, a coat and some gloves are a good idea. One should also have some sturdy shoes. Because the cold air in the cave is more dense than the warm air outside, a differential exists which results in a blast of wind that can reach a speed of 60 miles per hour. Holding our hats, we went into a new world.About every fourth person is given a open flame lamp, and the walk upward into the cave begins. I have been in several ice grottos in Switzerland, but this one takes the prize. We walked a kilometer into this cave on stairs and boardwalks over lakes of ice. Stalactites and stalagmites of ice on either side of us, with some meeting to form columns, are striking. Huge heaves of ice rise into the dark ceiling at points many meters high. The temperature is 32 F, but the cold was not unpleasant. The trip is in and out in nature, so we wound up back at the door where we got "blown out" of the cave by the blast of air.
Next came nourishment at an outdoor restaurant on the way back to the car. I digress here to say a word about "Radlers" (not an Austrian snake). A Raddler is a drink of 6 parts beer and 4 parts lemon soda, as a rule. They also come in raspberry, and one flavored with Holunderblutten (s sweet cordial like syrup from the blossoms of the Holunderblutten tree. On a hot day, these drinks are very refreshing without leaving one the heaviness of a glass of beer. I believe the name comes from the bike riders and their Fahrads or bicycles. You can ask for these in Switzerland as a Panache, or some countries as a Shandy. Austria is the only place that I have found these already bottled. Another light drink is to ask for a glass of wine (red or white) "gesprizt". This means some fizzy mineral water is added. It is good.
So, nourished and Radlerized, we drove home. It was nap time. Later that afternoon, Heinz appeared with a plate full of pork roast and Austrian cheese dumplings. His son is a chef in the Maldive Islands right now, but the father is a real chef also. He loves to see his Untourists "test" his food.
Golling has a small lake named the Egelsee. Tonight was an Egelsee Festival with fireworks. We got together with Untour-mates, Joe and Sue, and went to see if we do a bit of damage. The band was an amalgam of oompah and rock. There was lots of beer and food. The fireworks were spectacular and way out of proportion for such a small village. The show lasted over thirty minutes. There was a crowd, but all had room at long rows of tables. Our waitress spoke great English. We learned from her that one starts with conversational English in the fifth grade here. After the fireworks, we started the walk home, while loads of the young were just arriving. We had certainly had a full and varied day!
29 July 2001
Another in a string of beautiful and warm summer days led us away toward the mountains. Just as we were going over the map in the car, Heinz appeared. When we told him our plan to go to Pfarrwerfen, see the Seven Mills, and then travel to the Lichtenstein Gorge, he showed us a circle route to return home a different way and enjoy some high mountains too. He has an uncanny knowledge of this part of the Austrian country.We went first to Pfarrwerfen, which is a small village just down the line from Werfen. There is a museum there dealing with seven mills that have ground grains for many centuries. I confess to little interest in grinding grains, but this is such a nicely set up museum that I forgot all that. It, of course lies on a roaring cataract of water. There is a small field with tablets explaining the grains along with an actual plot of the growing grain. So, one can feel and touch wheat, barley, millet, oats, and others as they grow in the ground. Thereafter, one enters each of the seven mills with interactive presentations showing how the mills worked. There is also a nice demonstration of the power of water with wheels and a water screw that actually works. For adults this was fun. For kids, it would more than that. Take a pocket dictionary to translate the grain names, but the rest is a visual experience.
Onward to the Lichtenstein Gorge near St. Johann in Pongau. A short walk from the lot brought us to the gorge. It is impressive as are all gorges. I have been in several of these creations, but they are all different. Again, the power of water over centuries, can't be denied. It was a delightfully cool experience. That experienced was then enhanced by lunch! Lunch for me was a trout from the nearby stream, sautéed in butter after seasoning with spices. It was crisp and tasty and a glass of white wine "gespritz". Following a nice lunch, we moved on to the big hills to our north.
Heinz had said the mountains along this route would be like the Dolomites. He was right. Great needles of gray stone reaching for the heavens. The colors of the blue sky and the stone, along with the clouds, called for several photo stops along our way. We took a small and serpentine road to about 4500 feet above sea level. There, the road ended with what I had hoped all along. A hotel with a terrace where an afternoon treat could be had. The Arthurhaus satisfied us well with a reward of another ice cream, whipped cream, and chocolate delight. Diet? Out the window!
It wasn't a long ride home, and we were done for our day. Well, that didn't last for long, since we were invited to a grill cookout in the Spitzer backyard. Heinz had sausages and steaks on the fire, so once again we had a great meal. We also had a chance to speak with Dietmar, their visiting son. He is a chef in a hotel in the Maldive islands. Their daughter, Claudia, who is an attractive member of the household was there too. She is a secretary in Salzburg. They are children of which anyone would be proud. Also with the party were the neighbor who owns the local wine store, his wife, and a family friend from Berchtesgaden. There was a lot of fun had by all. We all agreed with Hannelore that two weeks in Austria is not enough.
The time moves rapidly now. We talk of farewell parties, packing, and other trips to come now. Bittersweet as always. Our car served us well today. We could make our own schedule, but nothing today could have not been done with train/bus. We saw this happen in each spot.
30 July 2001
Today was a Salzburg day. After awakening to rain, it cleared. We hopped the train from Golling to Salzburg. A bus trip took us to the funicular which carried us up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress. There we had a nice tour of the fortress in English, looked in on the Puppet Museum, and checked out the Carolina Museum. By the time we finished all that, it was noon and time for something to drink. Again, a Radler came to the rescue.After this, we found a few doodads for grandchildren and others. We watched as young artists played various instruments. There was also a puppeteer who had a doll playing some good music on a toy piano. Watching the little kids watch this was most of the fun. The small streets were mobbed and it was very warm, so we elected to cruise out of the city on the train back to Golling. Tonight is party night for the Untourists, and we want to hear the other's war stories.
The farewell party was held at the restaurant in Kuchl where we had our orientation. Terry was there to oversee the festivities. Her 9-year old daughter passed out edelweiss blooms to the women and Mozart Kugeln (yummy chocolate balls covering even yummier interiors) to all of us. We all had lots of fun with Terry bantering about our adventures, and she saw to it that each Untourist was clear on how to make it to the airport, etc.. We had a nice meal of schnitzel, drinks, salad, and a fruit dumpling for dessert. No one was left with any room to spare. An Austrian trio in traditional costume played music during all of this time of sharing between Untourists. No one was anxious to leave the party or Austria.
31 July 2001
Packing this morning is done with very mixed emotions. We have had a great time, made several new Untours friends, and of course, made two very special Austrian friends in Hannelore and Heinz. It will nice to be back in Switzerland because it is home. There will be new and old Untourists there. Tomorrow is National Day in Switzerland, so there will likely another party.We packed and did odds and ends mostly today. Did some shopping and then had lunch in Vigaun near Hallein. The village looks like it would be fun to explore. The Neuwirt had wonderful green noodles with a cream sauce and loaded with Eierschwamme. These are an egg colored mushroom that are a real delicacy. Barbara had the best goulash that has passed my lips. Then to the grocery store for stuff to take home, especially the goulash mix. I made a trip through the Golling church and cemetery, noting the only baby cemetery set aside that I have seen. I also made my way to the local wine store called the Wein Kiste (wine case) to pick up a bottle of that 1941 sherry and a gift for the Spitzers. While waiting for the wine store to open, I stopped at Cafe Meir in Golling for a coffee served on a tray with a china pot holding two or more cups and a matching creamer (about US$ 2.40). Cafe Meir is an institution here of many years. A nice outside area in the shade. It happens that Heinz first saw Hannelore there many years ago. Bet Untours is glad of that!
Tonight, we went first with Heinz to get some home brewed schnapps from a source that he knows. This turned out to be a treat. The lady had us sitting around her table with a tasting in a 300 year old house. We carried home enough snake bite medicine to last awhile. Then the famous fruit dumplings from Hannelore. These are yummy! Then, well into dark, we all sat around recapping our times with them. I hope the car will haul us home tomorrow without overheating! If it sounds as if I am bootlegging, then I'll stand accused.
The trip to Switzerland was uneventful in beautiful weather. We said our goodbyes to all. The Swiss customs man seemed glad to see us, even if the car did slosh a bit on curves. Now to put this all to bed.
A few thoughts about Austria
- It is not an extension of Switzerland
- The people are warm and fun to deal with
- The trains are well run and the personnel friendly and helpful
- The roads are not a problem when driving
- The food and drink are second to none
Other thoughts
- The prices are wonderful! We used the Swiss Franc (CHF) as a basis and found everything a pleasant surprise. Using 10 Austrian Schillings (OeS) to equal 1.10 CHF one eats and spends very cheaply. This was true with the US $ also. I took the CHF cost and multiplied by 0.56 to get US$ costs. For instance, a bottle of 1941 Solera sherry costs 391 Oes= 39 CHF, or 21.89 US$. Dinner for two with wine and/or beer costs about a maximum of 400 Oes, 44 CHF, or 24.64 US$ The quality is the highest but not the price.
- To use a car or a train pass? The next time, I will do both. For a two week stay with one week of each. Use the train pass for long trips. Use the car for local trips into the mountains where one can get an early start and make his own schedule. This will require only a bit of planning as to what activities take place in what week.