Austria Untour, Spring 2001
by Robert Smith, Friendswood, TX
We began planning this trip in the summer of 2000. Beverly, my wife and I had been to the Swiss Heartland Untour with friends and #1 daughter and husband in September 1999, staying at the Britchgi Spycher apartment and had a great time.This time we started planning with three other couples, long time friends and soon another couple expressed interest and shortly afterward we were booked for two weeks in Kuchl starting May 9, 2001. Four couples were to stay at the Springl 1 and 3 apartments and the other couple at the Bar apartment across town. One of the couples later purchased an inexpensive two way radio set so we could communicate across town on such things as when to meet at the train station or where we would meet for dinner.
We had several group meetings over the following months to learn about where we would be going and what different people wanted to see and do. Beverly and I had been to Europe numerous times but the others had only limited experience so we were appointed as the "unofficial" guides.
One of the things that most of us had wanted to do for a long time was to see the tulips in bloom in the Netherlands. Since all but one of our group was retired (excluding the wives who reminded us that they are never retired) it was easy for us to schedule the first Idyll term in Kuchl beginning May 9 and leave Houston a few days early. We took the Custom Untour option and scheduled our own non-stop flight from Houston to Amsterdam on KLM. By having a group of 10, we just got under KLM's minimum for group status and got a discount. On our return, we flew from Salzburg to Amsterdam and then home. We all met at Houston's Intercontinental Airport on Saturday, May 5 a couple of hours before scheduled departure as required for international flights and there was a lot of picture taking and chattering within the group about our expectations and excitement. When boarding time came, some people as usual had too many carry-ons and some were inconsiderate enough to cram them in overhead bins that were not in their immediate seat area. Grrrrrr! We had to put ours under the seat ahead of us but it worked out ok. You try and minimize these little annoyances and look at the big adventure awaiting you.
The plane left right on time and we all took No Jet Lag pills, which we had purchased at a local Luggage and Leather outlet, several times during the flight to combat jet lag. Beverly and I had taken them on previous trips and they do seem to work.
With the help of a good tail wind we arrived 30 minutes early in Amsterdam and for the first time in several such arrivals, the sun was actually shining. A good omen for sure! We purchased tickets and took the train into the city center Centraal Station. From there we dragged all our luggage aboard a tram and rode to what we hoped was the closest stop to our hotel.
Beverly and I had stayed at the Hotel Piet Hein about 10 years earlier and this time I booked five double rooms via the internet. A reasonable middle-class hotel located in a nice area near Leidse Plein and the Rijksmuseum. From the tram stop, a local merchant steered us in the right direction and we soon found the hotel. By now it was close to 10 AM but of course the rooms were not ready so we left our luggage in the small lobby and decided to walk the few blocks to the Rijksmuseum. I think most of us were in a daze but we did cover most of the exhibits and had lunch in the museum restaurant.
Back at the hotel, we were able to check into our rooms and then decided to join a city tour starting a little later. A bus picked us up near the hotel and took us back to a city center tour office where there must have been 200 people mingling in the office and on the sidewalk waiting for various tours to begin.
Finally a lady hollered our tour number and off we went down the sidewalk and around the corner to where 10 or 15 buses were lined up. Finally boarded the right bus and off we went. The tour was supposed to be presented in English but the guide immediately asked what nationalities were aboard and for some reason there were Germans and Spanish people present. As it turned out, most of the dialogue was in German and Spanish with a little English thrown in ever now and then. A very poor tour for us. The guide didn't get a tip from our group.
Back at the hotel we were ready for dinner and by chance (which sometimes turns out to be wonderful), we selected the Small Talk restaurant near the hotel.The waiter was British and delightful as was the meal. Two of our couples shared (4 spoons) a banana split for dessert. We had been up for 30 hours so needless to say, we were soon in dreamland.
The plan for Monday was to visit Keukenhof Gardens located in the town of Lisse near Leiden. After a great breakfast in the hotel's breakfast room we headed to Centraal Station on the tram. Once there, Beverly and I went upstairs to the Tourist Information office and found that we could buy the train, bus and entrance tickets there. This we did and took the next train to Leiden. From there we boarded a bus to the gardens entrance. The day was bright and sunny with a few fluffy clouds. We were on a roll.
We entered the Gardens and were immediately overwhelmed with the beauty of the place. We had never seen so many beautiful flowers and plants in our lives. Tulips of every possible shade and color and size were of course dominant and displayed in sculptured beds woven amid lush green lawns and deep green trees. At some points, carpets of color stretched almost as far as one could see. Each new turn in the path seemed more brilliant, more exciting, more unreal to the senses. Almost paradise on Earth, a Garden of Eden.
We found our way to a large fountain with surrounding seating where one could rest and meditate on one's surroundings. The only possible improvement to this place was an eis (ice cream) vendor and we all took advantage of that. Absolutely wonderful! A beautiful day, this place, and seeing it with good friends was indeed a time to treasure. Back in Amsterdam we walked down to the Dam Square, visited the church and found a self-service type restaurant named La Place where we had a nice meal. The best part was that there was a no smoking area in which to enjoy your meal.
That evening about dusk we boarded one of the canal cruise boats and enjoyed that spectacle of lights. A relaxing way to end a wonderful day.
Back to the hotel and to bed.
Tomorrow we were headed into Germany. First stop, Cologne.
The next morning someone made a brilliant suggestion. All of us were not looking forward to dragging our luggage aboard the tram for the ride back to Centraal especially because it was going to be rush hour and we knew the trams would be packed. With 10 people in the group it would take 3 or 4 taxis to carry all of us and the luggage so that didn't seem too appealing.
Then it was suggested that we call 2 taxis to take 2 of us and the luggage to the station and the other 8 would ride the tram and meet us there. It worked out great. We caught the 08:55 train which was one of those sleek German ICE jobs and were soon zooming through the Dutch countryside and into Germany.
We arrived in Cologne (Koln) about noon and the station was packed. The plan was to store most of our luggage in the station lockers so we would be free of that burden and then spend 2 or 3 hours seeing the sights. I went to the currency exchange office and obtained 10 two mark coins for the lockers which required 4 marks each. Barely enough room in 5 lockers but we made it all fit.
When you come out of the bahnhof the Dom overwhelms you. One of the great gothic cathedrals on earth. It's one of my favorites and having read about the cathedral's history I directed our group to a spot facing the west front and delivered a mini lecture about the history of the town and the church. I had a few questions afterward but no applause or tips when I finished.
That done, we entered with scores of other people and like everyone else were amazed at the beauty within. It's a good idea to find an empty pew while you're there and just sit down and relax. Great meditation spot. Upon leaving the cathedral there was a mime on the Dom Platz depicting King Tut. A lot of people passing by and taking pictures.
Then it was off to our favorite restaurant in Cologne, the Fruh, located just a couple of minutes from the Dom. This restaurant/beer hall has their own brewery and in my opinion their beer is the best I have ever tasted...anywhere! The place was crammed with people but we were directed to a large side dining room where we found a table for our entire group of ten.
Everybody ordered from the menu and I selected Hungarian Goulash which was outstanding. Others has sausage dishes or soup. We ask our waiter to take our picture and he graciously obliged. There were other Americans in the same dining room so we all responded as if we were long lost friends.
We then walked down to the old town area along the Rhine, took more pictures and then made our way back to the cathedral. We had about 45 minutes before our train was to leave so some of us went back inside the church, found an empty pew and relaxed. As the time approached we retrieved our luggage from the lockers and boarded out train for Koblenz. We were traveling on the Eurail Saverpass so it was just a matter of getting on whatever train fitted our schedule. I had taken along a copy of the Thomas Cook European Timetable so it was easy to plan out train travels.
Our destination was Koblenz, just about an hour away. I had booked our rooms via the internet at the Hotel Hohenstaufen and it turned out to be a good choice. The hotel was a block from the bahnhof and about a 15 minute walk to the old town area. The rooms were large and comfortable with a nice deep bath tub. Good for soaking tired bodies.
But before we did that, we took off on foot to see the town. We finally got to the Mosel River and followed the promenade to where it joins the Rhine at a point called Deutches Eck ( corner of Germany). At this scenic point there is a large statue of Wilhelm I atop a large base. Mostly destroyed in WW II, it has been restored. Across the Rhine we could see the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress towering 400 feet above the river.
Back at a picturesque square in the old town some of us decided to have an eis treat while others were ready for dinner. I and several of our group each consumed a monumental banana split. Yummy! Beverly and the others had a fine meal at an outdoor cafe across the square. Their waitress was a young Romanian girl who had come to Germany four years ago, without family or friends to make a better life for herself. After learning German and English she was on her way to her goal. It is interesting to talk to people like her which makes you thankful for what you have.
Back to the hotel for that relaxing bath and a good night's sleep.
The next morning we needed to catch the 08:25 which was a train that would take us to Salzburg with out having to make any changes. Unfortunately there was a large tour group staying at the hotel and when we went down to the breakfast room about 7 AM the place was swamped with those people. Luckily, they were gone by 7:30 so we did manage to have our breakfast and make the train. We had made seat reservations the day before but had to sit in adjacent cars as the train was pretty full. This was really no problem as it gave us a chance to move around and stretch our legs during the 6 hour ride as we visited with one another.
Several of us had lunch in the dining car. Beverly had spaghetti and I had tomato soup. Both were very good with the beautiful landscapes passing by adding to the relaxing enjoyment. The ride provided a chance to catch up on writing journals, post cards and reading. As we passed through Ulm we could see the cathedral from the train. The Munster has the highest steeple in the world at 528 feet.
There is a little pause in Munich and then on to Salzburg. We quickly find the right track for the train to Kuchl and in 30 minutes we arrive where our hostesses are waiting. The Springls are host to 4 of our couples and the Bar family greet the fifth ( the Wests). We agree to meet later for dinner and then are escorted to our apartments. Mr. Springl has a small trailer attached to his car to carry our luggage and most of us walk with Mrs. Springl across the Salzach River to our new home. The Shipps and Ghormleys will stay in the ground floor Springl 1 while we (the Smiths ) and the Whitneys will occupy the second floor Springl 3.
Mrs. Springl shows us all the nooks and crannys of the apartments, the kitchen, the basement with washing machine and dryer and all the other things we need to know during our visit. Our apartment is very close to the high snow topped mountains to the east and is very picturesque. We know immediately that we are going to like it here.
Mrs. Springl (by now she is Rosemarie) has the kitchen fully stocked for our breakfast the next morning. In the refrigerator there is milk, fresh eggs from her chicken coop, cheese, butter and jam while on the kitchen table there is coffee, tea bags, bread and homemade gingerbread which we soon devour. Rosemarie also gave us instructions for using the cellular telephone if we wanted to use it later.
Each of the Springl apartments had access to an outside wrap-around balcony with chairs for enjoyment. Ours also had an enclosed sitting room facing the mountains where one could enjoy an outside view on a rainy day. That never happened to us. Our weather was to be 99% superb. We unpacked our bags into adequate drawer and cabinet space and then radioed the Wests to meet us in town for some grocery shopping.
Meeting at the butcher shop we purchased such things as bacon, sausages, roasted chickens and whatever anyone wanted. Then on to the Spar grocery store for breakfast cereal, fresh strawberries, soft drinks, chips and other items for picnic lunches.
The Wests wanted us to see their apartment so we walked about 200 yards to the opposite side of town where the Bar apartment is located. This apartment is located on the second floor of a private residence and was decorated in a modern style although the outside of the building blended well with the traditional adjacent structures. Located across town from the Springl apartment and not as close to the tall mountains, the Wests had a magnificent panoramic view of the mountains across large meadows of wild flowers. There was also a balcony facing the mountains where they could enjoy a good morning cup of coffee to start their day.
Everyone was hungry by now so we put our perishable grocery items in their refrigerator and walked back to the center of town. We chose a restaurant with side walk tables because it was a beautiful evening with plenty of daylight. Also by dining outdoors we could avoid the dense cloud of smoke which most surely would have engulfed the restaurant's interior generated by all the smokers who we noticed throughout our trip ranged from about 12 years of age to the elderly. Ah! Fresh mountain air! We had a great meal in a most beautiful setting, enjoying fun, fellowship and laughs with long time friends in our new home town.
Then, we were in for a surprise. The chef, who was also the owner, came out to our table and announced that because we were the first group to use his new outdoor tables and chairs, we would be served a complimentary glass of schnapps. We graciously accepted and it was down the hatch. Now I don't know how many of you have tasted moonshine liqueur but this had to be prime stuff. It burned from the tongue to the bottom of the stomach. The general reaction was "Wow!". After a tiny sip, Beverly poured the rest of her's down a crack in the sidewalk and several others poured theirs into an opening along the building's foundation. I don't know the connection but we noticed the next morning that they were replacing the sidewalk along the building with new stones. I must say that I drank all of mine and suffered no ill effects. It probably would be real good for anyone with clogged sinus passages. When the chef returned, we all bragged about his white lightning and he said that his family was allowed to make a certain amount each year so I guess we really were honored.
We all walked (in a somewhat straight fashion) back to the Wests to retrieve our groceries and returned to our new home and bed. Good sack time before a busy day tomorrow.
The next morning was sunny and cloudless and we had orientation scheduled for 9:30 at one of the local restaurants. But first we had some of those delicious fresh eggs and bacon for breakfast. We arrived a little early and went for a quick visit to the church and graveyard just outside. All of the grave sites were covered with blooming flowers and here and there were relatives giving them tender loving care. The interior of the church was very nice also.
Outside the restaurant we encountered a young lady dressed in traditional Austrian attire and we knew immediately that she had to be Theresia (Terry) Seiwald, the Idyll Austrian representative. Terry is a very sunny, outgoing person and her demeanor is contagious. You immediately like her. Besides our 10 Untourist, there were two other couples who were staying in Werfen and Anna Marie who works for Idyll and was on a fam trip along with husband Cory. Both are what I would call "work-out/physical fitness people" and their bodies showed it. He's the kind of guy you want on your side.
Terry welcomed us to Austria and spent a little time teaching us to read the train schedule books which we brought from our apartments. The big thing to remember here is that not all of the trains passing through Kuchl actually stop there. Learn to read the book. Another point of importance that we barely learned in the nick of time is that most of the trains stopping in Kuchl and headed north toward Salzburg stop on track #1 and those headed south toward Werfen stop on track 2. But not always. At the bottom of the steps leading up to either track is a beacon sort of light. If that light is flashing, go to the other track. There is a sign in German explaining that but if you're not fluent in German it doesn't help much. Another safeguard is to ask one of the locals who is waiting by the track if the next train is going where you want to go.
About 10:30 we were served a green salad and ham and cheese sandwiches. If I would have known that in advance I wouldn't have had that big breakfast. Terry gave us a lot of other valuable information and announced that we would have a group excursion to Halstatt on Saturday.
With orientation completed we boarded the next train to Salzburg and caught a local train to Oberndorf where we wanted to visit the Silent Night chapel which was located at the site where the carol was first performed in the 18th century. Contrary to what the Idyll Handbook says, the conductor would not accept our Eurailpasses on this private railroad and after a brief but friendly discussion we paid the minimal fare. I'm sure they won't accept the Austrian pass either.
We arrived in Oberndorf and started out for the chapel on foot. I had been there about 10 years earlier and knew the general direction and that it was located not far from the Salzach river bank. After asking directions several times we found it just about the time a tour group bus arrived and they swamped the tiny chapel. We patiently waited until most of them moved out and finally were able to enter. I was disappointed that the carol was not being played on the chapel's speaker system. That really adds a lot to your visit.
We walked back to train station via a shorter and more direct route and were soon back in Kuchl. We had to hustle because the Springls had invited the eight of us staying in their apartments to dinner in their home and Mr. Springl (Ferdinand) was to pick us up at 6 PM.
We were all ready when he arrived and soon were admiring their beautiful home which was located a little beyond the West's apartment but with same magnificent panoramic view of the mountains. The meal consisted of our choice of wine or beer, a wonderful goulash soup and bread. The soup was so good that we all had second helpings. For dessert there was a vanilla pudding pastry. Rosemarie then asked if we would like to hear some music and we replied positively as we had heard about their talents and were looking forward to their music. Ferdinand played an accordion type instrument but with no piano type keyboard as we are used to while Markus the son and Elisabeth the daughter played clarinets. Rosemarie played a dulcimer, a musical instrument with wire strings played with two small hammers. The compositions were Austrian folk music and the family proved to be accomplished musicians. We enjoyed every rendition and ask for and received several encores. We ended the music with them accompanying us as we sang Silent Night. Maybe a little out of season but enjoyable.
Rosemarie then asked if we drank coffee and we then moved to the adjacent room where there was a table covered with several cakes and freshly baked strudel. We all found some extra room in our stomachs.
Each of our couples had brought small gifts for our hostess which we then presented to her along with a bouquet of fresh cut flowers. We were transported back to our homes by Ferdinand after a wonderful evening that concluded a great day.
The next day which was Friday we caught an early train to Salzburg because we had a big day planned in the Berchtesgaden area. We arrived in the German town in mid-morning with plans to visit the Eagle's Nest and then cruise on the Konigsee that afternoon. Unfortunately when we arrived and went to the bus station adjacent to the bahnhof it was reported to us that the Eagle's Nest was closed due to a meter of snow on the mountain top location and that it was scheduled to open about a week later.
We adjusted our plans and caught the next bus for the short ride to the Konigsee. Beverly and I had been there about 10 years earlier also and the major thing that I noticed was how commercial the area leading to the lake had become. There were about a hundred meters of souvenir shops, restaurants and fast food places along the way. Ten years back there were 2 or 3 souvenir stands and that was it.
There were a lot of people along the way and at the docks but we bought our tickets and managed to catch the next boat that was leaving.
The high mountain lake is one of the most beautiful in Europe. The electric motor driven boats holding about 60 passengers ply silently through the lakes deep green water along banks that are vertical and stretch to lofty heights. After a few minutes the boat's motor is stopped and the boat drifts soundlessly as one of the crew members pulls out a trumpet and plays a short passage. An echo rebounding from the mountains reaches your ears adding to the spell of the grandeur.
After a short time the boat docks at a lakeside chapel where many people disembark. We stay aboard and ride to the very end of the lake where a trail leads through flowered meadows and forest to a second lake with a magnificent view toward a high waterfall. Here there are benches for sitting where we enjoy our picnic lunch which we packed earlier back in Kuchl. A real photo place where some of the benches are so close to the water than you can actually dangle your toes in the lakes cool water. I never knew a ham sandwich could taste so good.
Walking back to the boat dock we stopped on a small wooden bridge spanning a bubbly stream and ask a young German mother if she would take our group picture. She graciously agrees and we had a nice encounter with her, her husband and child. She then asked Beverly to pose with her family on the bridge and one of our group took the picture with their camera. This is what it's all about when you go on your Untour. Person to person contact with people of different nationalities in their home land. Brief but sincere friendships with no common language. So rewarding.
We hurried home to Kuchl, stopping at a supermarket in Salzburg to buy something for dinner. That night in Kuchl there was to be a concert at the town church featuring the Kuchl Men's Chorus in addition to a concert by a visiting Italian Men's chorus and we didn't want to miss it.
We hurriedly had dinner in our apartments and just made it to the church in time. There was hardly a seat to be had but we all managed to squeeze in. The Kuchl men were great but I can't say as much for the Italians. Their songs all sounded about the same but they did have a tenor soloist who though not in the same league with Pavarotti or Domingo actually wasn't too bad. He did a good job with Ave Maria.
Back to the apartment and bed. I'm getting used to that bed now. Sack time. A big day tomorrow...again.
The next day being Saturday, we were scheduled to make the group trip to Hallstatt with Terry Seiwald. We all met at the station to catch the 8:08 train to Salzburg. Anna Marie and Cory joined us but the two couples who were staying at Werfen did not appear.
It was a long trip partially because we had to change trains a couple of times and the last leg was a 10 minute bus ride that was necessitated by repairs to the rail line.
Hallstatt is touted by some as Austria's most picturesque village but I have to disagree. It is built on a steep shoreline, surrounded by snowy mountains and adjacent to a beautiful lake but I have seen a few I like better such as Zell Am See which I will discuss later. To me the town is a little too touristy and over-hyped. Just my opinion so if Hallstatt is your favorite place I'm glad you love it.
The town does have a interesting history with the early Celts settling in the area as far back as 3000 B.C. Some of our group went to the little bone house with it's skulls and bones of former residents of the town and the pre-history museum. I visited both of the town's churches and got some great photographs of the town and lake.
Upon returning to Kuchl it was dinner time and we all had decided on the train coming back that we wanted pizza. There had been a wedding in the church earlier in the evening and most of the town restaurants were overflowing. The first restaurant that we tried was so full the owner would not even let us in the door. Luckily, across the street in the basement of a building there was another pizza restaurant that was nearly empty. The pizza menu was in German but we knew what a lot of the words meant so we felt comfortable about what we were ordering. Everyone seemed to enjoy their pizza when it was placed before them.
After dinner Cecil, Beverly and I walked to Terry's home to get our e-mail and send messages back to loved ones. Terry was gracious enough to let us use her computer. There is one available at the town library located behind the church but the hours it is open leaves a lot to be desired.
The next day was Mother's Day and we all slept late. We had some more of those delicious fresh eggs and bacon for breakfast with toast and jam. The beautiful weather continued. We straightened things up a little in the apartment and packed a lunch for out trip to visit the Liechtenstein Gorge. We then took the train for the short ride to St. Johann im Pongau. We had planned to take a city bus to the entrance of the path leading to the gorge but quickly found that the buses do not run very often if at all on Sundays. A van taxi was waiting near the station so we bargained with the driver and he agree to haul all 10 of us for 200 shillings which was a little over $1 per person. A good deal considering the path entrance was about an hours walk and mostly uphill from the station.
There were some picnic tables near the ticket window and concessions so we sat down and had our lunch. The book says the gorge is the deepest, narrowest, and most impressive gorge in the Eastern Alps and we were not disappointed. The waterfall at the end of the path was in full volume because of the time of the year when the snowmelt was beginning its maximum. As the book says, good hiking shoes are recommended.because part of the path is steep and the steps wet.
The weather had turned warm while we were eating our lunch but once we entered the gorge the temperature dropped at least 20 degrees so it might be a good idea to take along a light wrap or sweater. We spent about 20 minutes at the water fall where there are benches for viewing and resting.There are a lot of great picture spots along the trail.
Back at the ticket window the lady called a taxi for me and we returned to Kuchl. A light but enjoyable day. The next day was the start of a two day trip to Germany to see the castles of mad King Ludwig and the other sights in the area. We caught an early train out of Kuchl and then Salzburg for Munich because we wanted to arrive in Garmisch-Partenkirchen before noon. In the station in Munich, Beverly realized that she had lost one of her possessions as she was buying sandwiches for lunch we would eat during the trip to G-P. Each day she carried a small ziploc bag containing her Swiss army knife, Tylenol and a little currency for small purchases. Evidently the bag had slipped out of her pocket while on the train and as we were pressed for time and the train we had left was about 100 meters from our location, there was not time to go and look for it. We just hoped that it was found by someone who really needed the cash.
The ride to G-P was beautiful as we re-entered the Alps crossing pretty streams below snow capped peaks. We had months earlier arranged for renting 2 sedans from Budget and I was assured at that time that each could carry 5 persons comfortably. From the station we walked about 3 blocks to the Budget office where the man in charge had my reservation but said that the sedans could only carry 4 persons each. This problem was solved by renting us 1 sedan and a van that could carry 6 for the same price of 138 DM each. I drove the sedan (an Audi) and David West (a VW) the van. It took me a little while to get used to the clutch but I soon conquered that problem.
Months earlier I also had reserved 5 doubles at the Gasthof Fraundorfer in G-P as recommended by Jack Winchester another Idyller. The guesthouse was located in a very quaint neighborhood and reasonably priced (167 DM for a double) with a good breakfast included. The rooms were ready when we arrived so we dropped our luggage and took off for Fussen. The two-way radio that we brought with us helped us to communicate between the two vehicles. We made good time on the road to Fussen which passes through some beautiful mountain scenery.
We arrived about 2 PM and due to the crowds, the next English tour at Neuschwanstein wasn't available until 4:30 PM. Having been through the castle before, Beverly and I did not take the tour. This place had really gone commercial too, compared to years ago. We all browsed through the myriad of shops below the castle and around 3 PM the other 4 couples rode one of the horse drawn carriages up to the castle where I understand there are now more shops. Beverly and I took a bus up to the path leading to the Marien Brucke where there is a magnificent view of Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau and the entire valley below.
Back on the lower area we found an outdoor cafe and had a cold one while relaxing and did some people watching. We wanted to visit the Wies church that day also so we went in the tourist information office where they verified that the church would be open until 7 PM which gave us adequate time.
We rejoined the others after their tour and headed for the church which was about 20 miles away. A light rain began to fall and before long we saw a double rainbow.
The Wies church is out in the middle of no where in pasture lands and is not all that imposing as you approach. But once inside, you have a hard time believing your eyes. This is the ultimate in rococo architecture with gold, cherubs and beautifully painted walls and ceilings. I can't describe it accurately here so be sure and see it yourself sometime.
We headed back to G-P and drove through Ettal to visit the Abbey but pressed for time to make the Bavarian Folk show at the Fraundorfer that evening we decide to come back to Ettal the next day when we would be driving to Linderhof Castle.
We had table reservations at the Fraundorfer for the show and it was a good thing because the place was packed. There was Bavarian music and dancing, good food and beer and a lot of smoke. We happened to be sitting by two large windows so by opening them we managed to keep most of the smoke away from our table.
The next morning it was cloudy but no rain. After breakfast we checked out and headed for Linderhof. We went in the wrong direction from G-P and after driving nearly half the way to Innsbruck we found out the reason why. The darn map they had given us at the gasthof had the direction of north pointing down at the bottom which meant south was up and east and west were opposite to what we are used to when reading a map in the US. Look at you maps real closely for orientation when driving in Europe.
We got to Linderhof just in time for an English tour and then walked up the hill to visit the grotto which is really a neat place. I still don't see how lead singers, chorus and orchestra could perform a Wagner opera in that place for the King.
We quickly drove to Ettal for a quick visit to the Abbey church which is another splendid example of baroque and rococo architecture. Don't miss seeing that either.
We had to return the vehicles to Budget by 1 PM and got turned around in G-P trying to find the place mainly because of our crazy map. Finally by using the orientation of the bahnhof we managed to find the place although the people in the van took a while longer.
With both cars returned we hopped on the next train to Munich for a quick visit where we checked our luggage in lockers at the station. From the Hauptbahnhof we walked down to Neuhauserstrasse the pedestrian-only street toward Marienplatz stopping to admire St. Michaels church and then the old and new Town Halls facing the platz. We then walked over to the Odeonsplatz to view the Royal Palace (the Residenz) and the Bavarian State Opera before going on to the Theatinerkirche, the Hofgarten and then on to the famous or notorious Hofbrauhaus where we had dinner and of course one of those famous 1 liter steins of beer.
We left Munich about 7:30 PM and when we arrived in Salzburg it was pouring down rain and we had to wait about half an hour because in the evenings the trains don't run as often. We caught the 10:22 to Kuchl and luckily the rain had become light and there was little wind. We hustled back to the apartments and fell into bed.
After the previous long day we all stayed in bed a little longer. We were planning on spending the day in Salzburg and some of the group wanted to take the Sound of Music Tour. We left Kuchl on the 9:38 train and walked from the Salzburg bahnhof down to the Mirabell Garden where gardeners were planting literally hundreds of flowers in the sculptured beds. By June, the place should be a blaze of color. We found out that the next Sound of Music tour would not begin until 2 PM that afternoon but three of our couples bought their tickets in advance to be assured a seat for the 4 hour epic.
From there we crossed the Salzach into the old town and made our way to the funicular that took us up to the Hohensalzburg Castle. We finally found the castle tour ticket office and began the 35 minute tour which includes narration by individually carried listening monitors that can be set to your particular language. A good history of the castle is presented and there are good displays of living quarters and implements of mayhem in the dungeon if you like that sort of thing. From the terraces and tower there are wonderful views of Salzburg in every direction...another great picture spot.
The group decided to split up for lunch since the SOM tour people needed to be back near Mirabell before 2 PM and the remaining couples, the Shipps and ourselves, wanted to wander a little longer in the old town.
At one of the many vendors in Mozartplatz I ask a young man if he could recommend a good restaurant for lunch. I must point out that when one is on a trip such as this you always seem to be eating or looking for a place to eat. There are always a lot of places to satisfy your needs whether it be a restaurant, bakery, or konditorei. Aren't we thankful for that?
Anyway, the young man thought for a minute and then called to one of the neighboring vendors who approached and asked us in fairly good English if we wanted a good expensive restaurant or a good cheap restaurant with great food. Now was that a no-brainer! We went along with the ploy and when he offered to lead us to his restaurant a few blocks away we fell in line.
The restaurant had 4 tables outside and about the same number inside and after a quick look inside where the smoke was equivalent to a foggy night in London we chose an outside table. The owner was very personable and everything turned out fine. The food was great, including a very good salad and we noticed that a couple at the next table were having Sacher Torte with a big glob of whipped cream for dessert. Need I say more? Beverly and I didn't leave many crumbs.
Afterward we strolled through the old streets and squares and did some shopping on Getreidegasse. Late in the afternoon we walked back to the bahnhof platz and I purchased a couple of shortsleeved shirts for myself at the Forum department store. Before coming to Europe we had monitored the weather daily via the internet and everything pointed to cool temperatures...the 50s and 60s for daily highs. So, we had mostly brought that type of clothing but today it was in the 80s. Not complaining. We loved the warmer weather. We all bought ourselves an eis on the way to the train back to Kuchl.
The next day which was Thursday was our planned day trip to Innsbruck so we caught the 7:38 out of Kuchl. When we got to the Salzburg bahnhof we went to the track (gleis) from where the train to Innsbruck was to depart and found a string of cars sitting there. The sign above the track displayed the correct destination as well as the correct train number and scheduled time of departure. A lot of people were waiting on the platform but no one was getting on the train.
We thought that this must be our train so Beverly, Joyce Ghormley and the Shipps had just stepped aboard when the train began to slowly pull out of the station. A man on the platform yelled that this was not the train to Innsbruck but it was too late. Fortunately, and I don't know why, the train went about 200 meters to the end of the platform and stopped for a moment where our wayward travelers made a hasty return to the platform. Lesson to be learned: If you don't see a conductor standing on the platform beside the train or a lot of people already on the train, don't get on. Also check the sign near each door that lists the trains starting point and final destination. We all had a good laugh about the episode on the way to Innsbruck.
Once in Innsbruck Beverly and some of the others wanted to go to the Swarovski Kristallwelten (Crystal World) located in a little town outside of Innsbruck names Wattens. From the tourist office near the station we learned that the bus terminal was just around the corner so we all bought tickets and made the trip which took about 30 minutes. There is no tour of the factory but there is a beautifully landscaped visitors park and a walk through a gallery containing works dedicated to crystal created by renowned artists. There is also a crystal dome which you enter which is very enjoyable and of course a company store before you exit. Most of the ladies bought gifts for themselves or loved ones back home.
During the bus ride back to Innsbruck which was very crowded with high school age kids Beverly had a nice conversation with a young girl (17) discussing a variety of things including politics and the death penalty. Her mother had been an exchange student in the US in Kansas in 1974.
Back in Innsbruck we found our way to Maria-Theresien Strasse and the famous Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) and then visited the Tyrol Museum of Folk History and the Hofkirche (Court Church) containing the unused mausoleum of Emperor Maximilian. I was disappointed to see that the mausoleum was being refurbished and completely enclosed in a wooden box. The impressive 26 bronze and copper statues surrounding the mausoleum were however still visible.
Beverly wanted to call home to check on our two married daughters and their families so we left the others to wander in the area and after asking a store clerk for directions to the Post Office we started walking. The directions were confusing but after asking two more people and about a mile walk we arrived and found that they did not have facilities for that sort of thing. Only phone cards or coin operated telephones. They did tell us that there was a small post office in the area from which we had just come that had calling booths for such calls. We back tracked, found the place, made the call and everyone at home was well.
We met the others, had dinner at a sidewalk cafe near the Golden Roof and walked back to the bahnhof. By the time we got back to Kuchl it was threatening rain but we made it to our apartments dry.
It was Friday, rainy and a bit cooler so we slept late, had some more of those good eggs and bacon for breakfast, washed out a few things and Beverly caught up on her journal writing. We decided this would be a good day to go to the salt mine in Hallein because after all, it was under ground and should be dry.
After lunch everybody but Joyce Ghormley and the Shipps walked to the Kuchl station in a light rain and caught the train to Hallein. The distance isn't far and by the time we arrived it had just about stopped raining and a patch of blue sky could be seen to the south. Were we on a roll or not?
We rode a city bus up the mountain to the mine parking lot and walked the short distance to the ticket office. From there we entered the dressing area where we were each given white pants and tops to put on over our regular clothing. There were facilities to check our coats, hats, purses and whatever else we wanted to leave behind although we were told that it would be cold in the mine.
There was a large tour group of Japanese people on the same tour and during the tour an employee of the mine would narrate things about the mine and about the point where we were standing in German. A young lady who I think was also on the tour and not a staff member would then translate into English but I could tell that she was unsure of a lot of the translation and what we got was limited. The Japanese tour leader would then repeat all of this in Japanese.
We boarded a little mine train sitting one behind the other and holding on to the waist of the person in front and were transported about 300 meters down a dimly lit but horizontal tunnel. We then walked another 100 meters to a large room with benches where the guide told us about the history of the mine. Leading to this room we had the option of walking through a small tunnel that had been cut through the rock over 200 years earlier. The Japanese had no trouble passing through the narrow low tunnel but the rest of us had to lower our heads.
Being near the German border, the mine actually stretches into Germany so we were in two countries during the tour. About half way through the tour we came to a wooden slide used by the miners where you go from a higher level to a lower level about 30 meters below. You can go down one at a time or with a partner and it is a fast and exhilarating plunge. Lots of pictures were taken at the bottom of people coming down.
We then reached an underground lake which we crossed by boat and soon came upon a second slide. This time we were ready and had no hesitation about our second plunge. It was a fun and interesting tour and we all had a good time. If however, you are limited in walking or not up to doing the slides I would recommend that you not attempt the tour. Once you start, there is no turning back.
On the way out there was the perennial gift shop but we found some nice dolls dressed in Austrian attire which we bought for our grandchildren at a very reasonable price. We waited about 15 minutes at the bus stop for the ride back to Hallein which has a nice size shopping area being much larger than Kuchl. I still like Kuchl best though.
The next day was Saturday, May 19 and my birthday which I did nor mention. Beverly had a card for me but I didn't want anyone to make a big deal out of it. Today we were going back to Munich to finish our sightseeing there and arrived about 10:30 AM at the Hauptbahnhof. We hurried down to Marienplatz to hear the Glockenspiel play at 11 AM and then walked through the Viktualienmarkt open-air market where a lot of people were sitting at tables drinking the brew of Munich.at this early hour. We reached the Deutches Museum which is in the same category as our Smithsonian in Washington D.C.
A great massive museum with exhibits from A to Z. We were there about 4 hours touring the exhibits and finally played out with our legs tired and our heads full. We probably covered no more than 60% of the things to see. There is a large model train layout and airplanes and trains from many eras. There is a large mining exhibit (but somewhat redundant after visiting the Hallein nine) and exhibits on astrology, on bridge building and the environment. From the top floor you can go out on the roof for a great view of the city.I could go on and on but I'm already tired just thinking about all the options one had when entering the museum. Just go see it! They have a nice restaurant there too with a large no- smoking area. We must have walked at least 5 miles in Munich that day and it felt good to sit down in the soft chairs of the train on our way back to Salzburg.
The word got out about my birthday so I was allowed to pick the spot for dinner. By this time in the trip all the restaurant menus were beginning to look alike so I chose the basement pizza restaurant in Kuchl. This time it was pretty crowded but we were served promptly and were soon at home in bed.
Sunday morning about 9 AM Cecil Ghormley and I walked into town to use the library's computer to check our e-mail. When we reached the main street which leads to the church we noticed that it was lined with people and that there was a band at the far end. We then remembered that this was a confirmation Sunday for the young people and the tradition is to have a procession into the church led by the town band. Most of the adults were dressed in traditional Austrian clothing.
The band started playing and let me tell you that this was a very good sounding band and not the kind of town band you might have seen on the Andy Griffith Show. Dressed in smart looking uniforms they looked and played in a very professional manner. My only regret is that neither of us had brought along a camera.
Today we had a gorgeous day to go to Zell Am See which is about an hour from Kuchl by train. The trip was absolutely fabulous with the train following the Salzach for most of the way and then smaller streams as it wound it's way through deep canyons and flowery meadows with snow covered peaks as a backdrop. Nature could not have provided a more perfect picture. We planned to take the recommended cable car to Schmittenhohe which is 6,457 feet above sea level because on a day like this we knew the view would be unlimited. As it was Sunday the city buses were few and far between so we bargained with the local van taxi driver and settled on a good price to carry us to the lower station of the Schmittenhohebahn. The cost per person was 275 schillings and I noticed that several in our group blinked when they heard that figure. When I reminded them that it amounted to only about $18.50 it didn't seem so bad.
There was still quite a bit of snow at the top and a nice restaurant with an outdoor seating area where you could dine in magnificent surroundings.
We had lunch and then did a bit of hiking on one of the several trails that were open. Hang gliders were pushing off from a point above and soaring above the valleys and snowy peaks as well as a glider plane launched from an airplane from a nearby airport. With a clear day, little wind and a warming sun the day could not have been more perfect. Far below we could see several villages including Zell Am See by it's beautiful lake.
I have been to the top of the Jungfrau and the Schilthorn in Switzerland and this place is certainly their equal. Absolutely wonderful!
We sat on the veranda for a while just soaking in the beauty. When taking a group picture we struck up a conversation with a lady from Copenhagen and ask her many questions about Scandinavia. One of these days we would like to travel there too. We exchanged e-mail address and who knows what may develop.
We reluctantly took the cable car back down and as we had a little over an hour before out train left for Kuchl we walked through the train station and on to the lake side promenade. A most beautiful and peaceful setting. There were people of all ages strolling along the lake shore which was like a park with flowers and shrubs and benches for sitting or resting or sleeping or eating an ice cream cone. The lake was sky blue reflecting the surrounding mountains and ducks, swans and tour boats maneuvered in the water. I don't see how any place could be more perfect.
Back in Kuchl we remembered that Terry had recommended a restaurant in a small village about a 25 minute walk from town so we all agreed to give it a try. The walk through the flat valley was pleasant. When we reached the restaurant all of the outside tables were occupied so we no choice but to dine indoors. That turned out to be not so good as there were a lot of smokers inside. We opened the windows behind our table but that only helped a little. The meal was good but it was pleasant to get back outdoors for the walk home. All in all, it was a great day to remember.
The next day we were returning to Berchtesgaden to visit the Eagles Nest. Terry had checked for us and found that it was now open. From the Berchtesgaden bahnhof we rode a city bus up to Obersalzburg where we boarded another bus to Kehlsteinhaus (Eagles Nest) and then an elevator up to the house itself. Before taking the elevator we had to choose a time to return to Obersalzburg to assure a seat on the bus which was stamped on our return ticket. The weather was kind of hazy at the top with broken clouds. Sometimes you could see long distances and sometimes not. Beverly and I ordered hot tea at the outdoor restaurant and enjoyed that and some people watching. There was quite a bit of snow on the ground so walking around and up the trails was a little slippery in places.
It was disappointing that we were not allowed to enter the living quarters or public rooms of the building. A restaurant occupied much of that space so the wanderers were kept out.
After about an hour and a half we descended via the elevator, caught our bus and then had to wait another half hour for the bus down to Berchtesgaden. We barely made the next train back to Salzburg. That was essential because the Idyll Farewell Dinner was that night a 6 PM. When we arrived in Kuchl about 6:20 we didn't have time to go back to the apartments to change clothes which the ladies had planned to do so we ambled into the restaurant about 6:30. Terry knew that we were going to Berchtesgaden that day so she knew we would be along sooner or later. All the other people were there and we were quickly served salad, the beverage of our choice and wienerschnitzel. Four young men provided musical entertainment and it was an enjoyable evening. Terry was a good hostess and we expressed our appreciation for helping to make our Austrian Untour even nicer. We had one more day to enjoy Kuchl and Austria.
On our last day in Austria we slept late, then went to town to get some things for lunch and exchanged some marks for schillings. On the way back to the apartment we walked along the small lake near the river that has a nice playground for children and picnic tables.It was a little cool but the sun was shining and a lot of kids were there.
After lunch we all took the train to Werfen to see the Hohenwerfen castle and the falcon show that is presented at 11AM and 3 PM. We took a taxi up the steep road to the castle entrance where we bought our admission tickets and briefly visited the falcon museum.
The castle tour started in the chapel area and from the entrance it was a tough climb up a steep inclined road and then a lot of steps to the chapel courtyard. We were given the audio narration devices like we had used at the Salzburg castle and it was a very good tour. A part of the original castle (11th century) remains but most of it was built as we see it today between 1530 and 1585. Overall it was the best preserved and most authentic castle I have ever visited. As a footnote I found after I returned home that the castle was used for the 1960s movie Where Eagles Dare starring Richard Burton and Clint Eastwood.
The falcon show was excellent also and even featured an owl who was quite a comedian. We returned to Kuchl and had dinner at one of the outdoor restaurants on the main street with the towering mountains in the background. We all had a lot of great memories to think about and funny things and events to recall. The Austrian Untour had been a wonderful experience that we will remember always and the Springls the perfect hosts.
It was early to bed because wakeup time was 3:30 AM with Ferdinand and Markus scheduled to pick us up at 4:30 for the trip to the Salzburg Airport. We were ready when they arrived and even Rosemarie pedaled over to the apartment on her bicycle to say goodbye. Her new set of Untourists were due to arrive early about 9 AM so I'm sure the dust started flying in the apartments as soon as we left.
We were charged only 200 shillings (about $12.50) per couple for the airport transportation. We were there by 5 AM and out plane left at 6:20 for Amsterdam. It was a pleasant flight on the 30 passenger two engine propeller plane which arrived in Amsterdam right on time at 8:10.
Our KLM flight to Houston was scheduled to leave at 10:30 so we had a lot of time at Schiphol to relax and spend the last of our schillings or marks if we desired. We always buy chocolate at these times and the tradition was continued. We also got back the VAT (value added tax) from our purchases at the Swarovski shop from an office at Schiphol.
The flight back home was normal and of course it was good to be home again despite the heat and humidity. Before long I'll bet we will be planning another one of these things!