German Castle Untour, Spring of 2000
by Alice & Brian Clark, State College, PA
SCHLOSS SOMMERSDORF - BAVARIA, GERMANY - JUNE 2000
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13
Flights from State College to Washington DC to Philadelphia, before departing in the late afternoon for Germany—first to Frankfurt and then to Munich. Flight delays and changes throughout the day; long flight, but the Lufthansa personnel were pleasant. Young girl in seat in front of us flying to India alone.THURSDAY, JUNE 14
In Munich, got an Audi (rental car upgrade we lucked upon). Drove to Sommersdorf castle on the Autobahn @ 100 mph in the middle lane – right lane is for slower traffic (60 mph) and left for faster (150+ mph) traffic. One thing you learn very quickly is that you need to get into the slower lane if a car comes up behind you. Once you learn how it works, though, it all makes a lot of sense.Beautiful countryside with teepee shaped plants (grapes?) growing along the side of the road. As the driver throughout the trip and Brian as navigator, I didn’t get a chance to view the countryside quite as much as I would have (enjoying photography as much as I do), but it was obvious that it was spectacularly beautiful.
Sunny, pleasant weather on the way to the castle, then a big booming thunderstorm once we got there. Beautiful apartment (one of four; ours was called the Carola—the biggest of the four and in a separate wing from the other three). It was half the size of our house, with a large kitchen and living room (wing-back chairs), TV, refrigerator, oven, queen-sized bed, bath tub and shower. Very modern considering it’s a 14th century castle.
Frau Schmidt (the German woman who cleans the rooms) had an apple strudel waiting on the kitchen table for us. Met the Baron’s son and daughter-in-law. The Baron is a nephrologist (kidney doctor) and was on duty that day and night. His son is studying for his bar exam. He and his wife have two twin daughters. All stayed at the castle the two weeks we were there.
We walked 40 minutes on the roads around the castle. The countryside looks like central Pennsylvania—farm fields, rolling hills (mountains not as high), hiking paths all around. Bavaria is the least densely populated area of Germany; we were right in the middle of the agricultural district, with fields of grain, etc. all around the castle.
Drove to Dinkelsbuhl, on the Romantic Road; a beautiful walled city with timbered houses, all with red roofs, flower boxes and small gardens everywhere. Stone and z-brick streets. Charming houses, and meticulous care they take with all of their buildings.
FRIDAY, JUNE 16
Drove to Nordlingen, which is a circular, walled city built on the site (hole) where a meteorite hit 15 million years ago. The wall was built completely from the stones (Rieser Moonstones) which formed from the meteorite’s impact. Walked up the 350 steps to the bell tower at the top (bells run as we got to the spot). The bell tower is called "Daniel". We had a hawk’s eye view of the town below. The town watchman, in the 500-year tradition, calls down to the town’s people below "So G’Sell So" (all is well) every evening. We walked around the entire circumference of the wall, which is covered with a tiled roof. Red roofs, gardens, gabled roofs, all streets lead into the church /town’s center. Shaped like the spokes of a wheel.SATURDAY, JUNE 17
Drove to Bamberg and met Martin Weisseker (English speaking relative). They made our reservation at the Brudermuhl, near the townhall (Altes Rathaus), built right in the middle of the river. Met Helga Wagner (relative on grandfather Herbst’s side of the family); also met her daughter, Tanya, wife of Martin, and their son, Tim. They don’t speak English, but understand a good deal, which is typical of Germans. The younger they are, the more they’re likely to speak English (or, as they pointed out, American). Toured the cit, which included the churches (Michaelsberg—with ceiling painted with herbs), the cathedral (dom) with its 4 towers (tomb of Kunigunde and her husband, the king, Emperor Hunry II.) To Dom center that looks a lot like a Shakespear play house (tudor) and they do, in fact, do his plays there for a few weeks each year.To dinner at night with Martin (Irish music interest; speaks English with an Irish lilt), Tonya, Tim, and Helga (who brought a picnic basket full of meats, cheeses, bread, pickles, etc.) Had "U" beer, then listened to and sang songs with Juan (Puerto Rico), Gabby (guitars) with Martin playing Irish songs on his flutes. Very impressed with the German people—enjoy one another, gentle, quiet, kind, definitely family people.
SUNDAY, JUNE 18
10 AM had smoked (ham) Rauchbier with Martin—Bamberg is known the world over for that particular beer. Then to the castle at the top of the hill, overlooking the city. Lunch—Hungarian Gulash—at Helga and Herbert Wagner’s apartment with her, Tanya, Martin and Tim. Herbert Wagner arrived from his vacation in Spain (with friends) just as we were leaving.Dinner that evening back at the castle. Frau Schmidt prepared venison, spaetzle, bread dumplings, wines, fruit salad, etc.. Met the Baron von Chraisheim and the 3 other Untours couples. Dick and Linda Sommer from Warren, OH, who have done Untours with Henry and Kathryn Kurdziel, of Lyndhurst, OH (Linda and Kathryn graduated from college together, and all vacation together every year, especially now that their families are all grown up). Also met Eloise and Ken Waechter, from Bailey, CO, who, like us, were on their first Untour.
MONDAY, JUNE 19
To Rothenburg, another walled city, where there is a magnificent altar (triptych) made by Tilman Riemenschneider at St. James’s church (1373-1436); it’s of carved wood and depicts the 12 apostles with Jesus. (Reimenschneider is Germany’s greatest sculpter; he also did the tomb in Bamberg of Heinrich and Kunigunde.) Got sneeballen (snowballs)—dough balls with chocolate, cinnamon. Shopped at the Christmas store, like many do; didn’t find anything, but did find German linens in a shop down the street.TUESDAY, JUNE 20
Hot – 93 degrees. Hottest temperature for that date in recorded history. Drove to Heidelberg and stayed at the Rothaus Hotel on the top floor overlooking the Markplatz. No air conditioning in Germany. Heidelberg is the University city, and our friend, Mandy McTavish is an exchange student there right now. Walked along the streets (shops for tourists and students) with Mandy. Brian and Mandy went for a run. Dinner with Mandy and her roommate, Christina, a medical student. Walked to Heidelberg Castle (above the city)—ruins, stays lighted until Midnight. Beautiful view of the city below. Heidelberg is at its best at night; hundreds of people are seated at outdoor cafes that surround the church in the middle of the town center.WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21
While Brian and Mandy ran in the morning, I walked along the Philosophers’ Path. They ran by an old cemetery with above-ground sites filled with flower gardens. To Speyer with Mandy and Chris (her boyfriend) and Brian for dinner and also to see Germany’s largest and most imposing High Romanesque (1030 AD) church, called St. Mary and St. Stephen. A group of German women sat in the pews and sang a German song. Very moving. The church is very impressive; huge columns and soaring ceilings.Then, across the street for dinner and, of course, German beers. Each region has its own brewery with at least one specialty beer likely to have been made since the 1500s. We’re not sure which we like most – the beer or the food. Everything is outstanding, no matter where you go—you can’t go wrong.
Then sat in the Markplaz of Heidelberg at night having ice cream and beer. Summer solstice—high school graduation—many people celebrating in the markplaz (below our bedroom window) all night long.