Greece Untour, Spring of 2004
by Linda Gerber, Woodbury, CT
Springtime in Greece! What could be better. The temperature was in the 50's-60's and mostly sunny, the early Spring trees were in flower, the wildflowers were bursting forth, snow on the mountain tops, and there were few tourists. This was the backdrop for my Greek Untour experience from Feb. 25- Mar. 10, 2004. Being met by Christus from Avis was a comforting experience, but because of a plane delay for the other Untour people I was taken to Nafplio by Nichos (also from Avis) which turned out to be a great introduction to Greece. The two hour drive afforded me a chance to learn a lot about Greece, Nichos and his family and get a feel for life in this country. Nichos, who chose to farm his family’s land of orange groves, had twin daughters and a wife who worked for the government via internet at home. His parents lived nearby on the farm and this scenario seemed to be typical of the contemporary Greek family. He loved to cook and grew fresh produce for the family. In the summer when there wasn’t much going on in the orange grove, he worked for Avis. Oranges, olives and grapes: the backbone of Greek agriculture in the Pelopennese.
On arrival in Nafplio, I was greeted by Elly (the Untour rep) and shown my apartment; the Poppy. This spacious 2 bedroom apartment with lots of windows and light overlooked the St. George Cathedral and the Palamidi fortress. The view was spectacular and more so at night when the fortress was lit up. The church was the center of a lot of activity and the rather loud and unmusical church bell my alarm clock every morning at 7 a.m. The apartment was at the "center of life" in Nafplio.
The old town of Nafplio is a charming place with narrow streets, little shops, nice squares and tavernas and eateries of all kinds. As someone said, "it’s the nicest town in Greece" and after seeing many, I came to the same conclusion. Life starts when the shops open: 8 a.m., stops at 2 p.m. when they shut and starts again around 6 p.m. or thereabouts. Nothing is exact, but laid back. Often things would hum until around midnight or after and weekends brought many people from Athens. It was obvious that Nafplio was a tourist destination for the Greeks and the Palamidi Palace, the Boutzi, the churches all sights to be seen. I loved the Folk Museum, the walk up to the Acropolis, but especially the walk from the boardwalk around town (that Elly will tell you about) and even further across the parking lot and onto a dirt path. The views are what you dream of Greece looking like. I repeated that walk several times. It was wonderful having an apartment in the "middle of things" and being able to take part in town life and have good restaurants, shops etc. in your midst. No wonder this is a tourist destination.
The ancient ruins in the Pelopennese are easily accessible in day trips - even to Ancient Olympia. I visited Corinth, Olympia, Mycenae, Monemvasia, Mystras and Epidaurus. I found the Eyewitness guide that Idyll provides contained adequate information about all the sights.
Outstanding for me was the museum at Mycenae, the views from Monemvasia and Mystras, standing alone for 20 minutes in the amphitheater at Epidaurus and at the Temple of Apollo, the mosaics at the museum in Corinth and watching the workers doing reconstruction at Epidaurus. It is difficult for one to grasp the beauty of these places, realizing the dates of their existence. They are all places not to be missed and it was great to really have this experience with few tourists about.
In general the driving was not difficult, although the rural/mountain roads are narrow, windy and have no guard rails. I did not encounter a lot of traffic - the off season, I guess - but I suspect the driving could be trickier in the tourist season. Small towns are always a problem as the streets are so narrow. I found that towns were easier to maneuver between 2 p.m. and around 5 p.m. when everyone was home for "siesta" and you usually could find a taverna open to get something to eat. Yes, the Greeks do not stop at stop signs or railroad tracks if no cars/trains are coming, but when you think about it, it makes sense. They don’t tailgate and generally they’re courteous drivers. They do double park, making getting through a town more difficult. In my view, one of the great coastal drives of the world is from Nafplio to Leonidio. Don’t miss it and there are picnic spots along the way. I think I enjoyed the drives through the mountains as much as the ruins. The orange and olive groves were beautiful with spring wildflowers and snow-covered peaks in the distance. The countryside is beautiful. I am sorry I never had time for the Outer and Inner Mani.
My last 3 days were spent in Athens. I stayed at the Achilleas Hotel, the one Idyll recommends, and it is convenient and satisfactory. It is walking distance to the Airport bus stop and all the major sights. With the upcoming Olympics, there was a lot of construction going on and from my observation, not a day too soon. Don’t neglect to visit the Benaki Museum and the Museum of Cycladic Art, both situated in the Embassy/Royal Palace area. A nice area to walk around and one place that seems "ready" for visitors. I was disappointed that the National Archaeological Museum was closed as well as some parts of the major sights, but in retrospect, I probably had seen enough for this visit. The Plaka is very near to the hotel and a wonderful walking area full of shops and restaurants. I used no public transportation, but the new subway system is beautiful.
This was a wonderful experience, so different from Idyll’s other destinations. It’s a place not to be missed.
Linda Gerber