Our first Untour convinced us, this is the way to go. We loved the mix of solid preparation, background and resources, with the opportunities for independent exploring.

Christos, our Avis driver, and Ellie, our Idyll hostess, provided a warm welcome and introduction to Nafplion -- a charming seaside old town. We went in the off-off-season when there are virtually no tourists. Neither was there as much warmth as we had (unrealistically) hoped for. One day we had no sun, no heat, no hot water - and Athens, just 2½ hours away, had over 20 inches of snow that day. It was Friday the 13th.

The theatre at Epidaurus was a thrill, and the small museum there a gem.

We followed small signs marked "monastery". Some led us nowhere, but some to exquisitely beautiful spots. In general, the signs are few and far between. One learns to develop a trust factor.

With help from a friendly area resident, we found our way to grandiose and impressive Mycenae.

The high schools in our Rochester suburb of Greece, New York, all sport Greek names - so arriving in Athens, Olympia, Sparta, etc. felt like coming home.

The tavernas in Nafplion had food hearty food. Our favorite was Aiolos with its broiled feta, and lamb in brown paper. We were usually the earliest birds there. Greeks ate late.

Market days were colorful and blessed with sun. Loved the flowers and honey, and the chance to chat with stall owners.

Mystris, south of Sparta, was a good news / bad news experience for us. We were enchanted by the 15th century ruins - fortress, church, town - but arrived too late (3 p.m.) to visit completely. Wear comfortable shoes. A come-back must.

Preparations for Carnival were going on everywhere. You could sense the excitement, especially among the children.

Old Corinth is a sure destination for Christians who find it mind-blowing to stand in the very spot where Paul preached (tradition has it). The columns, statuary, mosaics, all make it easy to imagine the glory days of Roman Corinth. Don't miss the famous Corinth Canal, and Acro-Corinth where there are great views.

Olympia, site of the original Olympic Games, is awesome and thrilling - partly because of the three-hour drive there with the maneuvering of the switchbacks on the almost 100 miles of mountain roads. We met lots of typical road traffic - sheep and more sheep.

We enjoyed a few days of taking it easy in Nafplion at Acro-Nafplion and the Palamides Fort and at the waterfront. Plenty of outdoor cafes. And somebody has to do the shopping. My young daughter and I have always loved Naf-Naf in Paris. I got a kick out of shopping in Naf-Naf in Nafplion.

We did a bus day-trip to Athens. We learned, from "regulars", that your bus ticket indicates a certain reserved seat. We were blessed with a blue-sky, sunshiny day for trekking up and around the Acropolis. The Parthenon in stunning. Ended our traditional tourist day wandering around La Plake and having an excellent dinner there.

Nemea is nearby, and was one of the four sites of the Panhellenic games. It is a working dig of the University of Southern California and has an excellent, well-labeled, museum.

Our best taverna meal was in Nemea where the menu had no English page. The waiter simply marched us out to the kitchen where he lifted lids from the simmering pots, and we pointed.

Our only Greek island visit was to tiny Poros - a ten minute ferry ride from the mainland. One could just imagine its splendor in the spring to autumn sunshine.

We saved the best 'til last, and spent a wonderful sunshiny day in Monemvasia. The Gibralter or Mont St. Michel of Greece. It's old, charming, beautiful, with views of the sea from every point. But, it's overrun with cats. I'll let you decide if that is charming or not. We overlooked them, and fell in love with Monemvasia.

Would we go back to Nafplion? Sure, but not until we've explored and enjoyed other Untour sites.