Awoke early – before the alarm – off to Spokane to meet Jane and Zach for a ride to the airport and our 9:30 am flight for Boston. Northwest flights were fine (change in Minneapolis) and we arrived in Boston on time and were quickly whisked off to our motel. Had supper at a nearby Italian restaurant, then went for a walk and bought donuts for the morning.

Had a lazy morning – but the donuts were not so good! Took the hotel shuttle to the airport with the thought of leaving our bags in a locker or checking them in early so we could make a quick trip into Boston. No way! We forgot about the changes in airports since 9/11 – no lockers in the airport – and the British Air folks would not show up for hours. The weather was rainy so we just settled in at the airport and walked and read and had a nice lunch. When British Air folks arrived we checked in and then went to the boarding area to continue our walking and reading – however, we got to sit and read in rocking chairs that a company had put out as part of its advertising campaign. About an hour before we left the rain came down in sheets and you could not even see the planes at the gates.

The plane was not full and we were fortunate to have empty seats next to our aisle seats and that gave us some nice elbow room. But the man across the aisle from Maggie shuffled cards and played rummy all night with his wife until the lights came on an hour before our London landing, and then he went to sleep!! Pete slept an hour and Maggie slept not at all!!! Arrived in London at 5:20 a.m. and left for Paris at 6:20 a.m.

We quickly made it through the maze that is the Paris airport to our baggage and our meeting with our Idyll representative Joanna Tourin-Center (an antiques dealer living outside of Paris). Joanna (not Joan please!) helped us with the cash machine and then instructed our taxi driver to deliver us to #9 Rue de Picardie – which he did on a taxi ride that will live long in our memories. The way he managed to squeeze the cab into traffic at intersections without scratching a fender was amazing. The tab was 37.50 Euros. [Of course the dollar has gone to an all time low against the euro so the trip is costing an extra 15% - but we just grin and carry on pretending the two monetary units are equal.]

Rue de Picardie is a very narrow (one car width with narrow sidewalks) 2 block street that widens out in the second block. The exterior of the apartment building is not particularly pleasing to the eye and when you open the building entrance door you are faced with a very long and very dark hallway – illuminated by three small wattage light bulbs. At the end of the hall is a narrow winding staircase leading to a landing which holds the entrance to our apartment. The door has three locks and you must open the bottom and top lock before entering using the middle latch to open the door. Then suddenly you are inside a very charming and roomy apartment!

We can leave our bags at the apartment but we can’t move in till noon. So we stowed our bags – wondering if the currently non-working lights and water would be working when we returned later! They were and the apartment frig was stocked with essentials, plus a bottle of wine and fresh flowers in a vase between the double French windows. We explored the neighborhood and found that on the street that Rue de Picardie dead ends into a few steps from our door – Rue de Bretagne – was to be our shopping center. There were all the typical Paris market stores – one for meat, another for fish, another for cheese, and 3 for bread and pastry – plus two small grocery stores and a "farmers market"– and a cash machine on every corner. Also a number of small brasseries where one could also find ample food and drink!

We ended up sitting on a sunny bench in Temple Square to watch people. First the children – dozens of pre-schoolers playing under the sometimes watchful eyes of Nannies. Need to go potty? No problem – drawers are pulled down and the child held horizontally over sand at the corner of the park. The children were charming – some were in groups that were soon lined up by male leaders and marched off to other activities – all holding hands. Next came the Asia woman sitting on a nearby bench with fits of coughing so violent that it caused us to change benches. Then an older group of Asian men, all dressed in their best jackets, talking animatedly and finally a group of French older folks who seemed to know one another and met regularly in the park. Later in the afternoon we went exploring further out to identify the three metro stops in our neighborhood. We finished up with a coke light and then grocery shopping. Back at the apartment we napped and then had some good wine, cheese, bacon, eggs, and of course that wonderful bread!

We went to bed at 9:15 last night and fell immediately asleep. Maggie slept extremely well till 7:30, but Pete awoke at 4:30 a.m. Guess that proves who leads the innocent life!! Pete went out (as he did every morning) for baked goodies and came back with very flaky apple turnovers and croissants – Yummy!! Pete also picked up our favorite Herald-Tribune newspaper. We had a lazy morning which was interrupted by the manager of the apartment bringing a workman in to see the bedroom floor. Under the bed the wood flooring was buckled because of water damage. They pulled up some boards to let them dry better, but would not return during our stay.

We have planned the Marais walk (Rick Steves’ book) before our meeting with Joanna and the rest of the Paris UnTourists at 3:30 in the Navigator Restaurant. We only completed ¾ of the Marais walk because of the time we lost in the morning with the workmen. The courtyards of the Hotel de Sully and the Place des Vosges were lovely. Many people were eating their lunches and relaxing in the sun. We did get as far as the Jewish Quarter and had a pita with falafel and pork and veggies to go. We sat in a small park by a church to eat.

A nice young Japanese man and then a guard at a gov’t building helped us find the nearest Metro station. Many missteps in locating the Idyll meeting, but finally arrived with minutes to spare. The manager of the Paris apartments answered questions and judging from the comments and questions we think that we lucked out because most of the apartments were either very small or had problems (like the phone not working or having to walk up many flights of stairs just to get to an elevator). We enjoyed soft drinks and each other’s company and listened to Joanna tell about places to see and things to do and give us a zillion brochures. We were there until 6:30!! We want to go back and walk along the left bank of the Seine – many artists there. Must go in Notre Dame too. Bought roasted chicken and of course wine, cheese, and baguette on the way home. What more could you ask for. Tonight it is cards, books, and bed.

Mid-morning we retraced the Marais walk we did not complete yesterday. Along the way we saw an Asian couple standing in front of the Sully Hotel looking like they had made a mistake. We knew that they had mistaken the new hotel for the old hotel trying to follow Rick Steves walk directions. Pete offered directions and it turns out they are from Oregon! Small world! We took each other’s pictures in the Sully courtyard and then continued on our walk. This time we took our time during the walk to enjoy the streets, shops and people.

We ended our main walk at the Pompidou Center – noting the interesting color coded (by use – blue=water) pipes that are on the outside of the building and the people mover escalators on the back of the building. We ended up at the Homage to Stravinsky Fountains. These playful and inventive fountains were designed by Jean Tingley – we saw a whole park dedicated to his artistic mechanical fountains in Basel several years ago. We had lunch at the Dame Tartine overlooking the fountains. Then we looked – in vain – for the church with the 8,000 pipe organ. We found it the next week next to Les Halles. We then headed for the Seine River and on to Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral. We toured it inside and out. We later learned that this church houses important Christian relics – including the "crown of thorns" which are put on display once a month. Paris seemed more crowded today as we ventured into real tourist spots.

Next we passed through the metal detectors into the heavily guarded courtyard that serves both the Palace of Justice and Sainte Chapelle. The French King Louis IV – the king who became a saint – built this church in 1248 to house the aforementioned "crown of thorns." The dark (and un-consecrated) lower hall was for the "common" folk to use for worship. The upper chapel was for "royal" worship. St. Chapelle is known for its stained glass windows – and the upper chapel is surrounded by them. The windows tell the bible story from the creation to the rose window apocalypse at the rear of the chapel. We waited for a tour by an English speaking guide (from California). He thought that he was pretty cute with all his little side comments, but he really became intolerable toward the end of the tour. But we did gain some interesting insights into the building of the church and the story telling methods used in the windows.

We took a very crowded Metro home to wine and cheese (beginning to sound like a theme isn’t it!). Then we went to the internet place at the other end of Rue de Picardie (there used to be café but now it is just a room with computers) to send messages to the kids. We then stopped for a pizza at a shop just down the street ( so – so) and then wandered around our Marais neighborhood before heading back to the apartment. The people watching was good!

We did our washing this morning – one hour and 45 minutes! But skipped the drier part of the machine because it doesn’t seem to do anything but heat up the damp clothes! Went to the farmers market across the main street and bought bread, cheese (cheap) and salad ingredients. Then Maggie went to the grocery store for a steak. Her day turned black when she discovered she was 10 euros short at home. Either she didn’t get the right change or lost it on the way home. She felt very stupid (but she’s not!).

We then went to the flea market at Saint Ouen – it is huge! Blocks and blocks of clothes and gobs of tiny lacy underwear. Finally we came to the antiques – didn’t see any huge bargains. Some aggressive merchants, but most were busy selling. Huge crowds – watch your pockets! – It was another beautiful day weather-wise, in the 60’s, but with all the walking and sunshine, it felt much warmer.

Back to the Metro and out at Champs-Elysées. Crowds here too – we felt very touristy today. We walked and window-shopped and finally stopped for a sandwich at a sidewalk café. The entertainment here was watching the police pull over cars from traffic. A car down the street was obviously radioing ahead to a policeman on foot who waved the offenders down. Also we witnessed the police patting down a group of suspected pick pockets. Met a nice couple from Chicago who were in a tour group. In fact we were surrounded by English speaking people verifying that we were in tourist country. Walked to the Seine – Pete taking lots of pictures enroute. The trees are beginning to turn and it felt and looked like a fall day. Pete even got pelted with a chestnut falling as we sat on a bench under a tree.

We are not seeing the little dogs we saw on our last trip to Paris and especially very few "messes" on the streets. They did have a campaign to eliminate that problem. In fact – we have seen a special cleaning truck that has a dog picture on it and a crew that cleans up these messes – and there are places on every street to get bags to pick up the dog "do". But on a negative note we also observed 2 men peeing in broad daylight against walls. The urine smell is strong in many corridors of the Metro.

Home again to sit on our cool patio and enjoy some wine and cheese! Dinner at home tonight – salad at last. Took an evening walk and then home for Crème Brule’s.

Saturday night was party night on Rue de Picardie – lots of music and talking and happy noises from the apartments on both sides and below ours. Also a great deal of foot traffic on our street. During the week the street is extremely quiet – but not tonight! The party lasted until 2:30 a.m. If we had not been foreigners we might have pounded on the walls (or joined the party). The music was "phenomenally loud!" Maggie took a sleeping pill at midnight and finally went to sleep, but Pete listened to the music to the end! A lady in a neighboring apartment yelled once and things quieted down as the partiers closed doors and windows.

We slept in a bit later – due to the parties last night – and thus had a late start on our day. The day started with a little rain, but just enough to wet the streets. Strangely – or maybe not – all the stores and markets were open today on our street. Pete is sporting a swollen and black and blue toe, the result of his jamming it yesterday on the bedroom doorway [warning to guests – the hall is a half inch higher than the bedroom) – but he is not in pain and we will not be slowed down. Today we went to the Musée Rodin and Gardens. Sunday is cheaper and the gardens are free – probably because it feels like fall and there are not many flowers – only the roses. The gardens contain several famous sculptures – like "the Thinker" and a couple of others of some note. One is "The Burghers of Calais". Six city fathers getting ready for their execution – the ropes already around their necks – each person showing a different expression, from determination to grief. Another sculpture is the door "Gates of Hell" – which is really amazing and based on Dante’s work. The Rodin collection is housed in a mansion where he once lived and worked. The museum is a tribute to his life and clearly shows the evolution of his artistry.

The rooms on the tour chronicle his work through his life and also include the work of his young lover Camille, who was also his pupil. Also included in the displays are photographs and movies of the artist at work, plus a lot of conceptual work. An added bonus are paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, and Renoir. We were struck by the way his work grows out of the media that he is using. Because of this, most of the sculptures seem "unfinished" and you feel the connection, the figures coming out of the primordial mud of earth and just as easily returning from whence they came.

After deciding to do a wash this morning Pete couldn’t get the washing machine door open. He called the apartment manager who said that they would be over sometime during the day – and then, of course, the door opened as soon as he hung up the phone. We got a late start, but finally off on the metro and went to the Opera de Paris Garnier, the old opulent opera where it was more important to be seen than to see ( the best box seat in the house had an obstructed view of the stage, but could be clearly seen by everyone else in the opera house). It was lovely, with a huge grand staircase where you could imagine the ladies in their long gowns swooping down. Two boxes were open to the lush red velvet interior. The ceiling was painted by Marc Chagall – fantasy figures – centered by an 8 ton chandelier. The lights did not go on in the auditorium till a French woman indignantly yelled at the stage crew – they obeyed! The foyers were also rich with paintings on the ceilings and statues and much shiny gold. Lights everywhere with statues holding light bouquets. The foyers also had displays of costumes and set drawings from different operas. This is the opera house where "Phantom of the Opera" took place, but we were not allowed to see the underground lake. The huge Lafayette department store was one block away and we went there to window shop. We did buy Zach a puppet, but had trouble finding anything with a French label. This puppet had one! Then upstairs for a quick lunch and finally to the terrace roof which overlooks the city. We have been so fortunate weather-wise. It was partly cloudy and cool.

Headed for the Seine in search of a boat for a river cruise. We enjoyed walking first on the islands – especially Ile St. Louis which has wonderful little specialty shops. Maggie bought some orange confiture – a marmalade for PEO sisters auction. As we waited for our boat ride we enjoyed the company of a gentleman Parisian artist who was drawing one side of the Notre Dame Cathedral with a bridge in the foreground. He did ask us what we thought about our politics, mentioning NY Times article that called the French "cheese eating monkeys." It was a very congenial discussion, especially since we shared many of his political views.

The boat ride was great, albeit a little chilly. The commentary was in many languages, including English. We went under or observed 16 bridges and by many famous landmarks. We are constantly amazed at the beautiful buildings that make up Paris.

Back home again – stopping for lasagna enroute to cook in the apartment’s complicated microwave, oven, grill combo in the kitchen. The microwave worked just fine!

It is such a lovely sight to see the many couples/lovers. We observed scenes similar to this several times during our stay in Paris.

Both of us slept well – but were up and reading by 6. The mornings are very cool – a real feel of fall in the air, the afternoons are warm in the sun yet cool in the shade – hard to dress right.

We started using our Paris Visité passes today, and they worked just fine. We took the Metro to the area of the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur "Sacred Heart" – the church sits on the highest spot in Paris and thus should offer a spectacular view of the city. But not today – the smog was pretty thick! But the white façade of the church stood out nicely on the hill under the blue morning sky. As we walked up the street from the Metro towards the church it was lined with fabric stores. Maggie’s eyes lit up at this and she looked over the goods carefully until she decided on just the right Provincial print, which will end up as tablecloths for Jane and Amy – good price – good buy!! Further up this street we took the funicular (in this area there was once a gypsum mine – where we got "Plaster of Paris") up the very steep hill and then up some steps to the Sacré-Coeur. The church is very beautiful inside – no photographs please! Went behind the altar to view some wonderful mosaic’s depicting the "Stations of the Cross." Following the instructions of Rick Steves, we also gave St. Peter’s bronze foot a good luck rub! We then went up the center aisle to better view the rest of the church. A large group of 3rd graders was kneeling at the altar and being led in prayer by a nun – they were so cute!

We decided to follow Rick Steves’ ""Montmartre Walk" – first visiting the church of St. Pierre – one of Paris’s oldest. It is modest in size and ornamentation. As you exit this church you walk through the Bohemian section of early Paris. This is where many famous (and not so famous) artists and writers worked and played. They came because of the rural landscape and cheap rent. Now another generation of artists has taken up residence and sell their paintings in the Place du Tertre Square. We looked at all of the art work for sale and then bought an "original" impressionist Paris street scene from one of the dozens of artists in the square.

We toured some more of the area, which is very very steep walking and includes a small vineyard – in the middle of Paris! All that is left of what once was farm land and vineyards and windmills! We passed Renoir’s home and will come back later to visit Utrillo’s home and museum. Back at the top of the hill we had lunch – Pete rabbit and Maggie French onion soup – and traded dishes half way though the meal. Oh, and a glass of red wine to ease the hip and back pains from all those stairs and hills! We continued the walk and saw where Picasso’s original studio was located and the home of Van Gogh, where he transformed his painting style into the wild impressionist colors that we associate with him today. This walk provided us with the real "flavor" of Paris and its intimate neighborhoods. We ended our walk at the infamous Moulin Rouge, but chose not to follow the rest of the walk instructions past the sex shops, peep shows, and street walkers! Then it was off on the Metro to one of the Paris train stations to inquire about tickets and schedule to Giverny and then back to our apartment for refreshment and relaxation. A strenuous but rewarding day!

October already – hard to believe. Maggie went to bed feeling a cold coming on. Slept well with ambien but felt a little drugged out this morning. Today we visit museums with our one day museum pass – must have lots of energy! What a circus on the Metro/RER today enroute to the Musee d’Orsay. We apparently went to the wrong platform for the RER and knew something was wrong after a very long ride. We ended up at Gare d’Austerlitz – the wrong direction! Then the first Metro we got on after getting turned around on the RER waited at least 10 minutes before going. Unfortunately our language barrier prevented us from knowing what the problem was. We emerged from the Metro at the Orsay to find pouring rain!

The Orsay was everything we expected it to be. We went right to the impressionists and saw many familiar paintings. There were 5 of Monet’s Rouen Cathedral paintings in different light and seasons; a huge canvas of the water lilies at Giverny and several of his garden including "the bridge". It is mind boggling to stand close and see the dabs of paint and then step away and have the picture come in view. Sisely seems to paint in the same style as Monet. But our favorite is always Van Gogh, with his colorful dabs of paint. The two self-portraits only a few years apart were so different. The big dabs of green and red paint which made his brown beard in the earlier painting and then the later one – right before his death – showed such agony and movement. His paintings have such bright colors and the swirling lines stir emotion. All show great movement.

We had a sandwich lunch with a decadent chocolate dessert and then went through rooms of post impressionists. We didn’t care for Surat’s "pointillism" but did enjoy some of Cezanne’s paintings. There were many Degas paintings, several rooms full of his pastels with low lighting to preserve them. Forgot to mention Renoir’s many impressionist paintings which were also a favorite. He does lovely portraits.

We decided to walk to the Musée du Louvre, which seemed easier than "Metroing." And it was! We were interested in the Italian Renaissance so had to first walk through the Greek and Roman antiquities.

The Venus de Milo had wonderful lighting and was dramatic to come to. BUT there were a thousand Japanese around her and each had to have their picture taken with the Venus in the background. And do not walk in front of them while they are getting their picture taken! Winged Victory was nearby – pointed into the wind on the ships prow – wings and dress blowing back. It does look victorious. Then we headed down the long hall of Italian Renaissance painting. We especially like Raphael’s with his rich colors – velvet that looks so soft.

The Mona Lisa was at one end of the hall with a huge crowd surrounding her, but we had no trouble getting front and center. Flash bulbs were popping, even though many signs said no flashes. Maggie felt sorry for the paintings on either side which no one paid any attention to (one by Rosa). She told Pete she was going to write a book about the lonely paintings next to the prima dona, Mona Lisa.

We went to the other side of the hall looking at more Renaissance paintings and then to the French romantics. Saw the biggest canvas in the Louvre and other very large paintings including one by Veronese of the "Wedding at Cana." Jesus seemed out of place among all the 130 party goers. We did see Delacroix’s "Liberty Leading the People" which uses only three major colors – red, white, and blue. Very symbolic for the Louvre which is open to all citizens in France and the world. This was our museum pass day and we had used it well, but were dead tired as we headed back to the Metro and home.

We awoke early today – on purpose. Needed to get to the St. Lazare train station to buy tickets and catch the train to Vernon and then the bus to Giverny and Monet’s home and gardens. We arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare and found that by buying two tickets we got a nice discount – good deal! We could not find our newspaper, but did find some pastry and a place to sit. Amazingly in this large train station there are very few places to sit! At this early hour we could witness the "rush hour" at the station. An amazing number of people being disgorged from each new train arriving from outside Paris. As people had warned us, they don’t post the train track number until the very last minute and then there is a mad dash of humanity for that track! Soon we were off – a bit late but no worry. As the train moved away from Paris following the Seine river the fog grew thicker and we began to worry.

But it turned out to be a boon to our sightseeing. An hour and we were in Vernon – found the bus and 15 minutes later we were in this beautiful French village where Monet made his home for over 40 years.

You enter through his original and very large studio (think of those wall size paintings of water lilies) which is now a gift shop. Then you exit into the gardens and even in October the colors are spectacular. A path through all of these flowers leads you to and then around the Lily Pond and over the Japanese bridge that is the focus of many Monet paintings. There was a mist and fog in the air that gave this area a special light – plus few other tourists were in the area. Pete took lots and lots of photographs and as he did and as we walked, the light kept changing. One could easily see why an artist with Monet’s philosophy and vision would love to sketch and paint here – it was just lovely beyond words – all for the eye!

We went back through the gardens – rows and rows of flowering plants in full bloom and getting such tender care from a gardening staff. This led us to Monet’s home (all of this and the land was donated by Monet’s son). It was a very interesting house – especially the rooms painted in bright single hues, the massive collection of Japanese prints, and the living room. There was a large photograph of Monet in this room --- and the room today matched the photograph, minus Monet and lots of paintings that now hang in museums all over the world.

We just had to go back to the Lily Pond. We found a bench and just sat and watched the changing light (the sun was now coming in and out) patterns and of course the people, as their numbers had increased now. Lots of school children, who universally act the same world-wide! We sat and absorbed and drank it all in until we were full, but like a good French meal there always seems to be room for just a bit more!

We wandered back through the gardens and then bought some trinkets at the gift shop and a take-out lunch to be eaten in a shady spot as we moved along to the area of the Musée de l’Art American and enjoyed watching and listening to a couple of groups of teenage girls. Bought some more trinkets and then caught the bus, train, and Metro home. A long day, but our most rewarding to date.

As Pete was writing in this journal we heard the sound of drums coming from the main street. Soon a parade of people and musicians carrying banners which we could not read. At the very end of the parade was a group of street sweepers – men with old fashioned street brooms followed by 6 or 7 trucks belonging to the sanitation company. We suppose the parade/demonstration had something to do with these employees.

Tonight we ate out at a local restaurant – the Bistro Gourmond. Maggie had a salad "Beatrice" and Pete onion soup to begin our meal, and then Maggie had fish and Pete had pork medallions and both had a wonderful sauce. There was also a pureed mixed vegetable with curry that was unusual and very good. The plates also contained a small amount of spicy lentils, pasta, carrots and a seasoned potato. The main plate would have been ample fare by itself, but we both enjoyed a crème brulee. The waiter was part of the enjoyment engaging us in conversation. He was half English from his "big, big, big mother" (great grandmother). It was a lovely dinner eating outside on a warm evening. The weather continues to be wonderful – our only day of rain so far being on our museum visit.

Lazy morning. We bought groceries and ate lunch in the apartment – baguette, cheese and apple. In the afternoon we headed for the Musée Marmottan which houses a fine collection of Monet’s in a mansion on the fringe of urban Paris. We tend to enjoy these smaller museums – the Louvre is just so overwhelming! Pete had carefully mapped out our route on the Metro. It included several changes and a long ride. Enroute Pete noticed that our last stop had been marked out on the schedule posted in the Metro car (under renovation till Dec 2003). So we quickly made changes, walking up and down and all around till we found the right sortie. The short walk to the museum was lovely through a park for children with a merry-go-round where the children were trying to catch the rings and a man also providing donkey rides.

There was supposed to be a senior discount at the museum, which the ticket lady was not going to give us till we supplied our Idaho driver’s licenses. The collection was outstanding – showing his sketches as a teenager and also 5 angry paintings toward the end of his life when his eyesight was not good due to cataracts (he later had an eye operation that was successful). These paintings were very abstract and with lots of red. They also had at this museum the Monet painting that started the revolution, "Sunrise" and that painting was ridiculed by calling it "wallpaper." The style was dubbed "Impressionist" and the name stuck. Monet often painted the same subject several times under different light and we saw our 7th painting of the Cathedral of Rouen. Monet is said to have worked on up to 14 different canvasses at a time shuffling the right one onto the easel as the sun moved across the sky. He was a happy family man and lived for 40 years at Giverny and painted the gardens and water lilies. One could really see in this group how he was the bridge to abstract painting. There were other paintings in the museum, notably Renoir and some ancient manuscript illustrations. We bought Pete a Monet tie, blue with water lilies that should be a fun reminder of this Paris trip. We took the Metro then to the Nation stop to see one of the these outstanding super markets Hal spoke of in the Idyll booklet. It was only slightly larger than the one in our neighborhood so we were not impressed. We bought ourselves to die for chocolate éclairs and stopped for produce at a specialty shop on the way home. It is interesting how each block(s) features one item. The blocks around our apartment are specialty food shops – fish, cheese, meat and baked goods; plus an open air market and two grocery stores. Several blocks away they are all jewelry shops and in the opposite direction they are men’s clothing stores. Easy to find what you want if you find the right block. The food displays are works of art – appropriate for Parisians.

It rained hard last night but was just overcast and cool this morning. We started our day in the Place de la Madeleine area, which is full of up-scale stores and shops. We started at the famous Fauchon’s, which is really four distinct stores all laid out like fine works of art in their displays of goods and all very very expensive!

There is a tea room, meat shop, pastry shop, and grocery. All very nice, but the grocery has a wine cellar (cave) that blows the mind. One bottle of vintage red wine selling for $5000, a bottle of Scotch for $3200, and one bottle of Champagne going for just $9000. Upstairs in the tea and spice shop the spices are available in the usual containers, but you can also scoop them up from open bowls, so the smells are captivating. We then rode the famous pink padded elevator back down to the ground floor. We then moved on to Hediard’s, which seems easier to shop in and less formal, although just as carefully laid out. We bought some interesting mustards here. Next came a shop devoted to truffles "La Maison des Truffes" one batch in the window sold for $6000 a Kg. Next came a shop which was selling caviar and also very expensive salmon and eel! We then passed by a Baccarat crystal shop. We failed to make reservations at the Lucas Carton Restaurant, which saved us $600 for dinner tonight! We walked around block and blocks of stores with doormen and attitudes.

Near the old opera house is a little place showing the "Paris Story" – a multimedia event giving a history of Paris and also being very careful not to offend anyone. World Wars I and II lasted about 5 seconds, which was probably long enough for the German tour group in the theater. Despite such oversights the show was good and gave us a pictorial overview of historical Paris. We re-visited the large Lafayette department store for lunch on the 6th floor with a great view of Paris. This place also has unisex bathrooms. The toilets are behind doors but wash basins are in an open common area opposite the toilets – so it is really strange washing up with the opposite sex. Maggie found a beautiful red scarf at a street vendors display on the way to the Opera Metro station – good price!

Took the Metro to the Pompidou Center and went in search of the church with the 8,000 pipe organ. This search led us to Les Halles, which is a glitzy and touristy mall on the site of the once famous Paris Central Produce Market. And then suddenly we saw the church we had been looking for – gothic/renaissance St. Eustache.

As we walked in we could hear organ music – although we could not find the organist, but could see the keyboard, so it must have been a recording. This church is very old (1532) and very large – vault to 120 ft. But, as Maggie remarked "it could use a little cleaning" and Pete agrees. While making the rounds inside the church we noticed that there is to be an organ concert tonight – and we will return. Tonight is what is called "Sleepless Night" in Paris – an all night party and celebration in light and music. As we returned to our apartment we noticed a sign on our street announcing a special showing at the art gallery across from our apartment – it begins at 2 a.m. and closes at dawn – this promises to be an interesting night! Bacon and eggs for dinner and then out we went to Les Halles and the organ concert. The Metro deposited us in the middle of Les Halles mall – hundreds of people, but we somehow made our way in the right direction and exited right beside the church. All the doors were locked! We went to the front and found a group of people that appeared to be waiting for something. Soon, on some signal we missed, the group moved to a back side entrance to the church. While waiting for the door to open a homeless man came up and spoke to all of us and then opened his bedroll in front of the door! Soon he was moved away and inside we went to find a good seat.

The organ is elevated and open so you see all 6 keyboards, some 130 stops, and the foot pedals. The instrument dates from 1854 and Liszt played in this church. A woman came out and spoke to us in French and demonstrated the organ sounds. She then launched into an organ piece that showed its full power and range – her feet were literally flying across the foot pedals. She then talked to us some more (way too much) and introduced another organist and a soprano – who also talked and talked and talked – while playing and singing pieces of some very modern piece for organ and voice. Pete thought it all very interesting – Maggie liked the first organist, but not the music with the soprano! Back to the apartment by 10 p.m. and all is quiet on our street – this will not be a repeat of last Saturday night. The newspaper the next morning said that over one million people participated in the "sleepless night" activities despite the rain and cool weather.

We had a late start this morning (this seems to be a definite trend) going to the Pompidou to take advantage of the 1st Sunday of the month free entry to most museums. We decided to do the Marais walk again because it ends at Pompidou. It was lively in the Jewish district since this was not their Sabbath. Everywhere vendors were selling palms and what looked like a squash – for a Jewish holiday. Then we came upon a wonderful book store that reminded us of our "Book People" back home in Moscow. They had great prices on children’s books, so we bought Henry, Zach and Ainsley each a book. They are in French and we can see our kids now – "How are we supposed to read these to them" – and Jane saying, "He doesn’t know English yet!"

It was cool and windy and it felt good to get inside the Pompidou. We ate a light lunch on the mezzanine and then went to the top floor for a spectacular view of Paris, then back down a flight to view paintings from the sublime to the ridiculous. They had many Matisse’s which we liked but some crazy ones with empty canvasses and women with 4 legs, experimental films, a shovel hanging from the ceiling, and a crushed car. We had hoped to see Chagall, but after searching in vain we asked a museum person and she said they only had one and she didn’t know where it was!

Because of the cool windy weather we decide not to do any further walking and went to the Musée Montmartre. The Metro stop we were to go to was closed, so we went to the end of the line and climbed 5000 steps, used two more tickets, but finally got to the right Metro stop, climbed steep steep hills and arrived at what used to be Utrillo’s home. We were surprised to find only 1 painting by Utrillo, but found several by his mother and some other very good paintings. There were the familiar ones of the Can-Can by Toulouse-Lautrec and some political pictures and cartoons from the 1880s uprising. We came home to find no Bolognese open but decided we could eat one meal without bread!

Every day we are serenaded on the Metro by an individual or group who then pass a cup around for money. We don’t mind giving money when the music is good, but today it was a poorly played accordion. And then in our street there was a Metro musician group playing and people leaned out their windows and threw money. We were curious as to how much they make each day. It can’t be much!

Woke to rainy, windy and cool weather. Went to the computer place to check the e-mail and sure enough in the middle of 5000 spam messages we found notes from our kids! The weather this day was on and off rain and wind. After a home lunch of the rest of the bacon and eggs we were off to what Rick Steves calls "ground zero" in Paris – the square in front of Notre Dame Cathedral.

Ah, but first we stopped at the famous left bank Shakespeare and Company Book Store, a delightful store that all the great ex-patriot writers of the 1920s and 30s would use as a meeting place. It is an old building that has every nook and cranny filled with English language books. The young woman at the front counter was very English, with a heavy British accent. We think that all the Paris bookstores are really charming.

We spent some time browsing and then went over to the Cathedral across the street. This time we paid more attention to the entry façade and noted St. Dennis was there with his "head in hand." You could spend a long time just examining the figures on the front of the church. Inside we sat up front and just settled in to let our eyes wander from place to place. Then we walked around the inside, back out and down the side facing the river to the back. The trees are neatly squarely trimmed to provide lots of shade on hot days for the tourists waiting to get in.

Across the street – where most of the tour buses park – is the entrance to the Deportation Memorial. It is stunning in the emotional weight of such a simple yet meaningful presentation. You walk down a steep flight of stairs into a small courtyard and the city is gone from view – and so it might be said is your freedom. You enter a dark chamber and see a long narrow hall lined with 200,000 lighted crystals – one for each French citizen deportee exterminated by the Nazi’s. There are two side rooms which house niches shaped like the triangles the deportees were forced to wear and each niche has dirt and human ashes from each of the concentration/extermination camps. It is a breath-taking room.

Back on top at street level we crossed a bridge to Il St. Louis – we would live here if we were very very rich. We wandered the island’s central street and found many fun shops and well as a nice restaurant where we plan to have our last meal in Paris. Back across the bridge and then over to the left bank and we stopped at a little corner café and got a window table so that we could enjoy hot chocolate – with whipped cream – and people watching.

On the way home on the Metro we entered a very crowded train car. After the train started a man started yelling at and then confronting three young boys and a girl, who appeared to us to be a team of pick-pockets working this very crowded train car. He forced this group to give something back to a man who was standing in the middle of the group – in fact he would not let them off the train at the next stop – blocking the door and making moves like he was going to pull the emergency stop handle. At the next stop he literally kicked and shoved the group off the train. He was not a policeman, but certainly seemed like he knew what he was doing,. Maggie wondered, maybe he was part of the gang too!! Could be!

Tonight we have supper with our Idyll group and our contact Joanna. We confirmed our reservations for the airport van and also our bookings with British Air. The supper at the Navigator Restaurant was very nice with about 14 people present. It started with a sparkling red wine and then a three course dinner. Maggie had the duck that they killed a year ago (hung it dried it roasted it) Pete had a veal dish and of course lots and lots of wine to wash it all down. The conversation was good and we did not get back to our apartment until 11:30 p.m.

Within an hour the duck struck back (Pete likes to say, but it was probably a flu bug) and Maggie was sick and done in with aching joints and no energy. So we spent the day – which turned out to be rainy and cold – in the apartment reading and doing puzzles and also packing up for our move to a hotel for our extra day in Paris. [The extra day because we are using frequent flyer miles to get to and from Spokane to Boston and it was very hard to create a good schedule.] Pete found some chicken soup at the grocery and a fresh baguette and that seemed to hit the spot for reviving Maggie and she felt better by that evening.

Early to bed and early to rise makes a person healthier than yesterday says Maggie! Maggie is healthy today! A quick last minute clean up and finish the packing and we are out of the apartment by 9 a.m.. We walked a block and easily got a taxi at the taxi stand in front of the park. The driver took us directly to the hotel and we stashed our bags behind the lobby desk since we could not check in until 1 p.m.

Walked one block to the Luxembourg Gardens – very beautiful and the flowers still look good. Even huge pots with Palm trees all about. We sat by the pond with our backs to the sun and read the morning paper. Then wandered through the St. Germain – Les Preis neighborhoods starting with St. Sulpice church. It must have been a special holy day because there were hundreds of school children with banners waiting to get inside. We waited at a beautiful fountain at the entrance till they had gone inside and followed them , enjoying their voices in song. Before entering the church their voices sounded like bees humming. The shops in the area we strolled were very exclusive with upscale merchandise – Yves St. Laurent, Chanel, etc. Had lunch at an outdoor café and then strolled back to the hotel to check in. The room is fine (much smaller than any American hotel) and we were able to watch our first English language TV (CNN) since leaving the states. The big news is the election of Arnold Schwarzenegger as Governor of California. Pete is a bit sleepy and its misty outside, so we’ve made no rush to do any more sight-seeing.

Later, after resting, we took the Metro to the Tuileries Garden and sat and watched the children sailing boats on the pond. The wind was good and they sailed well. Maggie kept thinking of those two grandsons and what fun they would have. Ainsely is too young and Zach would probably try and get into the pond.

Took the Metro to get to the Ile St. Louis to go to "L’Auberge de la Reine Blanche" for dinner. This place had been recommended and it was good (not outstanding – but good!) Pete had the Beef Burgandy and Maggie had chicken with a cream sauce and then we split a chocolate mousse. The setting was perfect – intimate, candle-light, tablecloths – lovely and the service was good. Many Americans eating there – only Americans eat that early (6pm). There are only 10 tables and it was the only restaurant filled in the area.

We decided to walk home – starting twice since Maggie forgot her scarf the first time. It was a pleasant warm and just a bit misty evening stroll along the Seine and the busy boulevard of St. Michel. We’ve been fascinated with the police cars and vans who travel in groups of 6 to 10. We’ve seen this three times today, so either there are many big emergencies or this is customary. Back in our hotel room we repack once more and tomorrow bid a fond au revoir to Paris.

We had breakfast at the hotel, but could not seem to get the same service or baked goodies as the rest of the guests. I think that this was our only encounter with surly employees. We finished packing and checked out around 11:30 using almost the last of our Euros. We walked down a new street window shopping and ended up at a small shopping mall where we split a sandwich and pastry for lunch. There was a perfume shop in the mall and Pete bought Maggie a Christmas present of a scent that she had been carrying around a sample of for most of our time in Paris.

We continued our walking and window shopping and visited Paris’s oldest church – St. Germain. They were having a service so we did not linger. We wandered back to our hotel to read while waiting for the Paris Shuttle airport van to arrive. In the van was an English woman who had married a Frenchman – "I wouldn’t do it again!" but she had 4 children and did not look a day over 35 – her husband had just bought a vineyard and the ring on her finger was very large. She talked to the driver fluently in French, but told us that she had only bothered to learn the present tense of the language.

The ride to the airport was memorable – speeding along and weaving in and out of traffic – we may have set a new record for getting to the airport – less than half an hour! Check in was easy and both flights home were full to the brim! We were in the air for over 8 hours and arrived on time in Boston. Went very quickly through customs and were at the motel by 10 pm. Called the kids and Jane will meet us in Spokane on Friday night. Then she and Steve and Zach will come down and spend the weekend with us.

The only thing that did not survive the trip back was the soft cheese. When we opened the bag with the cheese in Jane’s house the odor was overpowering and Jane quickly took those gifts to the garbage can in the alley! Bad idea – only carry the hard cheese home – we should have known better – but now the kids will have something to kid us about for months and years to come!

It was a wonderful trip! Bon!