Hi Folks:
Some of my notes will be of interest only to our family and friends, how much interest to others I don't know.
From Dorothy and Bob Marcinek - Omaha

Account Dorothy had enough miles to fly Business Class Omaha - Paris - Omaha free we opted for the Custom Untour. Since we wanted to spend a few days in Paris our Untour consisted of 11 days in the Provence area and 3 in Paris.

Our travel schedule was on Delta, Omaha-Atlanta-JFK-Paris. Rode the TGV train Paris-Avignon (Ave-E-On or Ave-E-Own). Picked up the rental car at Avis which has a trailer type office just outside the train station and to the left, with English speaking personnel. With directions from Idyll made our way to Max Tomlinsen's (Idyll Rep.) home in St. Antoine, just outside o f Isle Sur La Sogue ( Ill-Sue-Sore). Received some oral and written instructions and was escorted to our Apt. Margaillen-3 (Mar-Guy-Yen) by our land lady Babeth Margaillen. The Apt. is more like a cottage, no steps to climb and no elev. to take. Maybe someone would want to do the same as we did so here is the cost: Apt. $1634.00, Apt. supplement $140.00, Hotel Bretonnerie in Paris, 3 nights, $414.00, French Rail Pass, $292.00, TGV seat reservations Paris to Avignon $20.00, Rental Car $600.00, all US for both of us.

The Margaillen's have 3 Apts. all connected side by side with their home also connected.

Entering the ramp to the plane in Omaha sacks with an banana, orange juice, yogurt and a sweet roll were available for coach passengers. After take off coffee and soda were served.

Dept. Omaha 6:16am 8/22, arr. Atlanta 9:15am EST. Our flight out of Atlanta was 4;00pm. We checked at a Delta counter and was put on standby for a 12:20pm departure to JFK. Made the 12:20 with take off at 12:30pm. Not bad for Atlanta as sometimes there are 10-15 planes ahead of yours.Atlanta also had the sacks for coach passengers. Arr. JFK 2:15pm with schedule take off at 7:10pm. Our departure gate was changed so we always checked a couple of times just to be sure. We took advantage of the Business Class Lounge ( Drinks and Snacks). Due to some problem with the on board computer we did not dept. JFK until 8:00pm. Est. flight time to Paris 6hrs. 45mins.

The lady next to me in the window seat was pregnant and wanted to sit in my aisle seat. Without going into details, I need a aisle seat. I told one of the Stewardess about her request and she directed me to the head Steward. I told him what she wanted to do and said I would be agreeable if he would let me sit in Business Class with my wife. He took my boarding pass and in about 10mins. he came back and said that I owed him big time. I knew the switch was made and I joined Dorothy. After arr. home I wrote a note to the President and CEO of Delt telling him of the fine treatment we received.

A glass of champagne was very good as was the warm nuts and red wine. Dinner was served about 9:30. Choice of Southwestern Chicken Wrap or Roasted Portabello mushrooms w/garlic and diced tomatos, salad w/rolls. Entree of Blackened Cowboy Steak, Pan Roasted Duck oor Vegetable Pasta. Wine was served throughout dinner.

Arr. Paris 8:15am (Charles DeGaulle Airport) 6hrs. 50mins. flight Plane stopped on the tarmac and was bussed to the terminal. Luggage carts were available and free. Got our luggage and directions to the train station (which is connected to the airport). Found an ATM in the Train Station. Asked several questions and found where the train departed from and which car to get on. Had second class rail pass and reservations to Avignon. The French people we come in contact with so far were very helpful and very friendly to us.

The TGV dept. 11:24 am (on time) and arr. Avignon 3:30pm. 463 miles. The ride was fast and smooth.

The luggage racks at the ends of the car were full so I had to leave the big case in the vestibule of the car. Found space above the seats for the smaller cases. Had seats that faced each other with a table between four people.

If you are planning something like we did please see that your reservations to and from Avignon are made before you go. I wanted Dodge Amaral to do this for us and when we received our documents the reservation from Avignon back to Paris was missing. He told me I could make them in the train station at either Avignon or Ill Sur Sore and it would be cheaper. On the Thursday after arriving we stopped at the station and the only thing left in second class was a departure at 8:30am Since I would need to drive in the dark, and not being use to the roads we settled for first class departure at 12:16pm. This cost us an extra $55.00 US.

OK. After a run through at the Apt. with Babeth we were on our own until the 11:30am orientation at Max's house on thursday. The Apt. was stocked with the usual staples. Coffee, Orange Juice, Milk, 6 Eggs, Wedge of Brie Cheese, 4 Tomatos, Package of lunch ham, grapes, Jam, 2 Loaves of bread, Cookies and a Bottle of Red Wine. The Apt. had a gas stove, dish washer, cloths washer, toaster and automatic coffee maker. There is also a swiming pool. Water was cold but refreshing once you get in.

After a shower and a change of cloths we drove into Isle. for dinner at a small cafe recommended by Babeth, Le Trident, located across the street from the train station.

Dorothy had the Roast Beef with 2 types of potatos, rice, salad. I had the roast lamb and same side dishes. We each had 2 beers and ice cream for dessert. With tip 250FF $34.50 US. Back to the Apt. and we were beat.

After coffee and a bite for breakfast drove into Isle and walked around a bit before the orientation with Max and to meet the other Idyllers. Max gave a very good overview and was very informative. After the orientation most of us met at a cafe, Le Cheval Blanc, just south of max's home for lunch.

Food was served family style starting with plates of sliced tomatos with cheese sticks, olives, basil, olive oil and the ever present bread. Plates of sliced lamb, green beans, french fries, wine, coffee and a dessert of gelled apples with raspberry sauce. 80FF, $10.25 tip included.

Lunch is served 12 - 2pm with dinner starting at 7 - 7:30 to 9:30 - 10pm. Almost impossible to find anything open between 2 and 7pm. Its also impossible to find a phone that takes coins. Its all phone cards now. Smoking is on the upswing and it seems most of it is done while eating and/or drinking. Only the most expensive places may have no0smoking sections.

Stopped at the super market which is located on the north side of town and picked up some things to eat at the Apt. We intend to eat most of our large meals at noon and snack in the evening with our bottle of wine.

Back to the Apt. for a swim, clean up and snack on cheese, cold cuts bread and wine.

We drove into Ill for dinner at a small cafe recommended by Babeth, Le Trident, located across from the train station

Departed for callis on the Mediterranean about 8:30am and arr. 10am. I took the long way so as not to drive thru Marseille. The auto route is tolll, one leg cost 20FF, $2.75, another cost 17FF, $2.10. I'm basing my US money on the conversion chart I pulled off the internet, 7.22FF per 1 US dollar. Dorothy read somewhere that Callis is wall to wall people on the week ends so thats why we choose friday. Took us over an hour and a half to find a place to park, so this will tell you friday is not a good day either. I would recommend maybe monday or tuesday. Had to walk about 6 blocks to center of town. Bought some post cards and stamps and had a beer, $4.15 for two. There must be at least a dozen cafes on the water front. It was time for lunch and we picked out, La Voute, no special reason. We orderd the Bouillabaisse for two 390FF bottle of water 30FF, with tip come to $55.00. It was good, 4 kinds of fish, mussels, bread, aioli and cheese. I would say 7 out of 10 people eating there ordered the mussels that come with french fries, 65FF, $9.00.

Driving in France is all about tailgating, weaving in and out and fast. Our landlady said the French drive worst than the Italians, so those of you who drove in Italy be prepared. I would not say the French are careful drivers but they know what they are doing and they all drive the same. Its their driving custom, just like sitting at a cafe and not doing anything or waiting for your check. If they would be haft as fast in bringing the check as they are driving it would suit me fine. When in Rome huh.

Returned back to the Apt., and after a swim, lite snack and wine everything was just fine.

Two really nice couples from New York was in the Apt. next to us, Mac. # 2. They would come over and we would chat about where we were and what was on tap for the next day

Awoke to another nice day. So far the weather is just great. Every morning we have a bite with our coffee before setting out for the day and today is market day in Arles. About and hour and a half from the Apt. Most of the markets open around 8am and close 1 - 2 pm and I think thats so they can close up and move to the next village. There is parking outside the wall which may be free, I don't know. We parked inside the wall, found the parking ticket machine, something like 20FF for 2 and a half hours which needs to be done again after your time is up, depending on long you stay at the market.

Walked about 3 blocks to the market, passing the bull fighting ring. The market must be 6 - 8 blocks long on both sides of the main Blvd. (Blvd des Lices) and I would say 50 - 75 stalls. This market should not be missed. For one thing its on an saturday, not too far and less traffic if you go 8 - 8:30am. On one side of the Blve. is nothing but edible products, meats, breads, cheese, spices, olives, fruits and vegt., chickens cooking on the spit. If one wants to cook at the Apt. you can pick up anything and as much as you want. Forgot to mention that the Apt. had a frig with ice cube trays in the small freezer compartment. On the other side of the Blvd. is like a flea market, dishes, flowers wooden bowls, material, tablecloths, shirts, ducks, tools etc. The olive stall I bet had over 15 small barrels of different kinds, with garlic, with anchovies and some were hot. We bought 3 kinds to have with our snacks at night.

So far the dress in the areas we visited is very, very casual. Shorts of all kinds, shoes of all kinds, shirts of all kinds.

Back to the Apt. to drop off our wares and into Isle to eat, can't remember the name but its right across from the church in the middle of town. Ordered the La Menu, chicken 55FF, rabbit, 58FF, rice, salad 2 beers with tip 150FF, $20.00.

Both the dish and clothes washers worked fine with soap powder furnished. The clothes washer is small so you can't too big of a load in.

The land lords, Babeth and Etienne ( E -T- En )( Steven in English) have a nice dog that would make the rounds of the Apts. looking for a handout. Babeth said this was a no-no. The dog came over just about every night and we would pet and scratch him. I think it was a him.

Apples, sunflowers, peaches, grapes and olives grow throughout this area, although I seen some corn and milo fields from the train on the way to Avignon. There is a winery about a mile south of the Apt. The wines, red, white and zin are all very good. The winery had table wine for under $2.00 a bottle. Most of the wine I bought was in the $2.50-$3.75 range and very good

The temperature during our trip Aug. 23 - Sept. 6 ranged from a high 70's to low 80's.

Today is market in Isle. Just like the other markets, you have a choice of many things. Dorothy bought somemore material and a few other things we did not need. Open 8am-1pm. Lunch time come around and we found, Belle Isle, that served salads and crepes. We ordered the mushroom, ham and cheese crepes and a glass of wine. It sounds like we drank a lot of wine, and you know, we did. 181FF, $16.00 for both including tip. Bought 3 kinds of olives, hot with garlic, with basil and with anchovies. Also bought some cheese and sausage. I wanted a strong cheese so I squeezed my nose and pointed to the cheeses and he knew what I wanted. Good stuff.

Left for the hill towns of Roussillo, Gordes and Village des Bories. About a easy 30min drive from the Apt. Roussillon (population 1165) sits on a hill thats composed of ochre rock which has from 16-17 shades. I understand the ochre is used as a pigment in paint. You can walk to an area that shows these different shades. There is also a good view of the Grand Luberon.

Gordes (population 2031) also sits on a hill. You can get a good picture from the road below on the way to Roussillon. You can also get a good picture on the way into Gordes. Its really neat to walk the narrow streets of these hill towns with their vaulted passageways, old tall houses, the shops and a small market.

Village des Bories.

Not too far from Gordes you will see the sign to the village. Turn right and there is a parking lot just off to the left. Don't park there as its too far to walk. Keep on the road and it will lead to another parking lot near the village

The village is now a museum of rural life. There about 15 restored bories which are between 200 and 500 years old. The Bories are made out of large flat stones layered one on top of the other, when it was time for the roof the stones where slanted inward just so slighty from each side until they met. Whats interesting is there is no mortar that holds the stones together. There is nothing else there.

Before we left Isle filled up with gas 7.55FF per liter, $28.00. We droved for about 4 days and used just less then a half a tank. The cars get good mileage.

On the way back stopped at a roadside restaurant, La Farigoule, near the town of Les Imberts. We both ordered the plat de Jour. Entree was choice of rabbit, lanb or beef kidneys. We had the lamb. First we received a plate of toasted bread with a small bowl of olive paste. Next was some kind of pate in a sliced loaf. The lamb was served with a light mushroom sauce, escalloped potatos with onions and cheese. Quarter pitcher of wine was included. Total 130FF, $18.00 including tip. For the price it was one of the better meals. It was well worth the stop Located on the left hand side going to Gordes.

It was 2:30 and we headed for the wine area north of Carpentras. We were told it was an hours drive. It took us thet long just to find our way thru Carpentras. Stopped at three family owned wineries and bought a bottle at each. Got back to the Apt. about 6pm.

I found a route that went around Carpentras thereby avoiding all the traffic. It may have been a tad longer but a lot easier. Give yourself extra time when driving.

Departed for the Dentelles de Montmirail area where a large number of wineries are located. Just about every town has a winery and sips are available. The towns are less than 15mins apart and easy driving.

Stopped at the Vacqueyres winery, located in the town of the same name. Bought a superior red for 49.50FF, $7.00 and a very good white, 37.50FF, $6.00 I shy away from too many sips and leave the drinking for at the Apt., its too easy to get caught up with a sip here and a sip there.

After leaving that area we stopped at Chateauneuf du Pape for lunch. 2 pieces of white fish with basil and garlic on top, rice squash and eggplant vegts and bread. 144FF including tip, $18.00

This area produces a very superior wine. Been told best in Provence. Our landlord said you can keep this wine for 8-10 years and it will only get better It was'nt too bad now

The super market in Isle has a good selection of wines in the $2.75 - $3.50 range.

The Idyll Rep. would not recommend any one place to eat but did say your best meal for the price would be to order the Plat de Jour or the Le Menu or the Prix Fixe You will hav a choice of 50FF, 95FF, 120FF and maybe up to 195FF. The Higher you go the more food you get.

The towns we visited todays were Vacquevras, Seguret, Vaison La Romaine (which was there market day) and Chateauneul du Pape.

Awoke to a slight rain (weathers been perfect up to today), a light breakfast and off to Les Baux (Lay-Bow). Les Baux has a population of between 450 and 500 and by 11:30am there were that many visitors. Go early, 8-8:30. Its about an hours drive that takes you thru the village of St. Remy's and today was there market day. What a traffic mess. Les Baux sits on a plateau with many shops and cafes. The Gramaldi Family, ancestors of the now Prince of Monaco, occupied the Chateau at one time. You will see many olive trees between St. Remy's and Les Baux.

Rain stopped about noon, cleared off and was nice.

Stopped at a roadside cafe outside of St. Remy's on the way back. Ordered the Le Menu, olive and anchovy spread on a thick slice of tomato, zucchini with cheese in a egg casserole, fr. fries, bread and duck with a light mushroom sauce and a glass of wine. Total 185FF including tip $25.00.

Stopped at the winery for a bottle of wine, 22.50FF, $2.80. Their table wine was under $2.00. While we were there a local come in with his plastic jugs, something like a milk jug and had them refilled. The jugs were filled from a nozzle, just like at the gas pump. Had a nozzle for 4 different wines. Most of our meals were in the afternoon as we are not use to eating late and I don't like to drive ater dark.

If you plan on eating in you can buy serveral days food at the markets or shop at the super market in Isle.

After breakfast departed for Plaine De La Camargue and the village of Stes. Maries de La Mer. Camargue is home to bulls, horses and flamingos which you will see wading in the marshes. Ste. Marie sits on the Mediterranean and is a crowded tourist area, with again many shops and cafes. Ste Marie is south of Arles and about a 2 hour drive from Isle.

To get a good view of the city go to the church and up tight spiral steps to the roof, then up the slanted slate covering. 10FF.

Back to the Apt., chilled 2 bottles of wine. Yesterday we invited Babeth and Etienne over to visit. They came over about 5:15 and we spent over an hour with them. Etienne does speak some English. He also speaks Italian and of course French. Babeth speaks very good English, German, Dutch and Spanish. They are both very nice people.

There many traffic circles in Provence and you really need to be alert so as not to make the wrong turn.

The water is very good. We did buy some bottle water and then just refilled them.

Drove to Fontaine de Vaucluse and visited a paper mill still being used today. Drove to Abby de Senanque, which is by Gorder. Arrived a little before noon and the Abby was closed 12-2pm. The Abby is situated in an valley and must be really preaty when the lavender blooms as there are a couple of fields near by. The road to the Abby is narrow with a space every so ofter to duck into if meeting another car.

Tonight Idyll is hosting a dinner at one of the hotels.

Had a nice time last night chatting with the group, finding out where they went and did during the last few days. Seems like each couple we sopke with liked different things and it gave us a wide range of info. Today is packing day for us as we will be leaving Sunday for Paris, where we will stay Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, returning home Wednesday.

Made a dry run to Avignon to make sure we knew where the train station was. Happened to have a wine festival in the court yard outside of the Popes Palace. Nice place to drink wine. There had to be 25-30 stalls of different wineries and if you bought a wine glass all the tastes were free.

Lunch consisted of veal in mushroon sauce, potatos, salad and water. 190FF, $26.00 with tip. You can find free parking outside the wall that rings Avignon.

We drove about 1193 kilometers, the longest to the Mediterranean (2hours) and the shortest, maybe 30mins. Figured gas was $80.00 total.

Dept.Isle for Avignon train station about 9:30am. Train was not to depart until 12:16 but we wanted to have enough time to check in the car. Train dept. on time with a ETA Paris (Gare De Lyon, City Station) at 3:40pm.Accourding to the monitor at the Avignon station our car #11 was suppose to stop at F loading point. When the train arrived car #17 stopped at F so we had to hustle 6 car lenghts to car 11. Might want to be alert to this. Has first class seats and enough room at the end of the car for the large case and ample room above the seats for the small carry on's. Arrived Paris 3:45pm and the Hotel Bretonnier. Cab fare station to Hotel 62FF, $8.00. I don't know if that was high or not. Seemed OK to me..After unloading at the Hotel we walked to Notre Dame Cathedral which is huge. You car take pictures but no video's inside. It was pretty dark inside so our pictures did not come out.

Made reservations at the Hotel for a city tour on monday. Figured this was the best for us with only 2 days in Paris. 340FF, $45.00 each. Picked up at the Hotel at 8:30am. Mini van with seating for 8, we were the only one's on the tour. The tour also included an hour cruise on the river seine. Young tour guide, (Christian) spoke english well and gave us the Paris highlight tour. We asked to be dropped off at the Louvre which he did. 46FF, $6.00 each. Before entering the museum part there is a food court on one of the levels where you can get just about anything in the way of food. Spent about 2 hrs in the museum. The picture of the Mona Lisa and the statue of Venus De Milo were the main attractions. The museum is very large and I'm not so sure a week would do it to see it all. Pictures and video taking is no problem. After the museum we walked to the National Opera House where Phantom of the Opera plays. 20FF, $2.60 senior rate. This is the only place we got the rate. In July of this year Phanton had 32 performances here in Omaha. Outstanding production. Only one door to the seating area was open so had to wait in line to see.

The hotel had a mini bar and a safe inside, also a TV which brought in CNN in english.

Tried to confirm our plane reservations for Weds. Dept. from the hotel without success. Asked the desk clerk for help and he said dial 01 and the ten digit number, still no success and it appeared to us thats all he would do. Stopped at an Air France office and they were kind enough to do it for us. When leaving this hotel you must leave your room key at the front desk.

Ate at two cafes recommended by the hotel which were nearby, Au Tibourg was one and I can't remember the other. Prices started around 115FF,$15.00 each. Wine and anything else was extra. The food we had on this trip was very good and well prepared. Some might have been a little better but for the most part it was all good.

You can get breakfast at the hotel, rolls, bread, jam, coffee or tea, 60FF $7.85 which I thought was too high

Bought 2 1 day metro passes, 110FF, $7.50 and took off to see the Eiffel Tower. It opened a 9am and by 11 there were lines to get the tickets. 22FF, $2.75 to get to the first level and 44FF for the second level. Don't know what it costs to go all the way to the top. There are gift shops, post office, restrooms and a cafe. There are 1,710 steps to the top. You can also walk to the first and second levels or take the lift.

Woke up to a rainy morning. Our flight deptarture was 11:30am. Orderes a cab the night before to pick us up at 8am. Cab arr. 8:10 and took a little over an hour to get to the air port. I can't begin to tell you the traffic we encourtered. Four lanes going out of Paris bumper to bumper, weaving in and out and because of the rain, slow. Four lanes going into Paris the same way. 300FF with tip, 41.50. I knew it would be high and with our luggage there is no way we could have taken the metro. Remember I.m the guy that asked about taking the whole wardrobe for two weeks. Well, my wife did cut down on her cloths but that just left more room for souvenirs. If taking a cab to the airport make sure you give yourself plenty of time. I would say at least an hour and a half from Paris.

Dept. Paris 11:50am with flight time to JFK of 7 and a half hrs. Check the luggage and noticed the Delt agent put Priority Tags on them. That makes it nice as your luggage will be one of the first off the plane and when you need to reclaim them and then recheck, its a big plus. Reclaimed our luggage in JFK, went through customs and rechecked to Omaha. JFK to Atlanta and Home. Arr. Atlanta with dept. 8:10pm gate 34. Found gate 34 and flight delayed until 8:30pm. Advised later to move to gate 28 as there was some problem with the plane at 34.Went to 28 and was told to move back to 34. Back at 34 for a half hr. and then had to move to 28 again. Finally dept. Atlanta 10:30pm. Arr. Omaha near midnight. Delta gave each passenger a $50.00 coupon to be used within an year on another flight..

Odds and ends:
There is a cybercafe in Isle and the lady spoke only French. If one knows how to do all this stuff its available.

International Drivers Lic.
The info I remember from Idyll said you did not need one but what I read in a travel book you did. Both Dorothy and I each had one. $10.00 each from AAA.

Gifts:
Being on only two Untours we did take some little tokens each time. In Prague and Budapest we did not see the Owners of the Apts. so we gave our Ne. ballpoint pens to the Idyll Rep. In Provence we gave Babeth a fanny pack and to Etinnie a ball cap plus two T-Shirts. Babeth in turn gave Dorothy a jar of her home made jam. Its just something we like to do, no special reason.

Apt.
Each Apt. is different in its own way. I myself would like to stay somewhere in town so we coulf walk instead of driving.

Info:
Idyll will give you all the info. I think you will need.You always want to read up on the area you will be visiting.

To those who missed out on some of my parts I will see that you get them.

I know this has been a long journal but its the kind of info I would like.

Happy traveling

Bob and Dorothy Marcinek - Omaha