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Provence Untour, Summer of 2001
by Charles & Margaret Gates, Little Rock, AR

We have just returned from a very wonderful Untour to Provence and a happy stay in the town of Pernes Les Fontains. This was the way it went:

Had a very nice flight on Air France to Paris and on to Marseille arriving there around 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday June 5. Next morning decided to see Marseille before Max our contact, collected us. The staff was very helpful at the hotel - told us a taxi would be over 300ff and instructed us how to take the bus from the airport which we did and had a nice visit to see the fishermen selling their wares on the pier and have drinks in a sidewalk cafe. Bus ride 50FF. The hotel let us leave our luggage in the room even though we would return after checkout time. Max collected all the untourists and we made the trip to Avignon for the car - got a great car, air conditioned. Followed the caravan to Max's house and visited with other untourist til landlords came to lead us on to our house. Met the Tardieus (our landlords - great folks). Settled in our house and went shopping for more food but enjoyed everything already in place. This will be our home for two weeks and we are very excited. It is very roomy and pleasant and has a wonderful courtyard where we will while away lazy afternoons after sightseeing trips.

Thurs:
Woke early - had coffee, opened patio doors and let in the Provence air and sunshine, walked to bakery and bought breakfast. Bon jour and smiles from lady in bakery - no problem, she'll just take that money right out of your hand if you can't count. Off to Maxs' for orientation at 9:30. Got there too early as usual (my husband retired military). Had strong coffee next door at the bar and watched the men go over their racing forms. Had lunch with the group after a very informative orientation. Returned to Pernes and checked out the little town, made reservations at Dame L' Olie rest. Shopped for groceries, snacked, sat around outside on our patio - just soaking it all in.

Fri:
Off to Orange which was a nice easy drive for our first sightseeing trip. Many Roman ruins, parked by the tourist center and walked to the huge Roman Theatre. It was very interesting, 30FF. Climbed up to the highest level, then to Notre Dame Cathedral and the Arch de Triomphe (each town has one) had coffee at sidewalk cafe and watched the people. Drove on the Chateneuf de Pape, lots of wineries all along the way. Drove up to the Pope's chateau. Nice little outdoor restaurant on the tippy top. It was very windy but we had a great lunch with a fantastic view. Had the plat du jour, very good. Went to the winegrowers museum in town (free) but they will sell you wine and candy. Had a nice drive home. The landlord came by after we got home and we had a great visit, got lots of good advice.

Sat:
Market day in Pernes, went too early (as usual) had coffee at sidewalk cafe. Shopped at the market, bought Provencal tableclothes, fruit, blouse, etc. Had a lot of fun just looking at all the stuff. Later we took a self guided walking tour of the town and climbed up the clock tower and looked over the town and saw all the fountains. Back to the sidewalk cafe for refreshments and people watching. Had dinner at Dame L'Oie - good meal, about 4 hours. Small rest. but filled up quickly (we were early).

Sun:
Market day in Isle Sur La Sorgue but its raining so we go to the Intermarch instead and do some shopping. Stopped raining about 3:00 so we drove to St. Didier for sightseeing and on to Beaucet. Drove up the hill and think maybe we might have got in someones driveway so we backed out and went on to Venasque. Prettiest town in Provence. Saw the baptistry, old church, etc. Had coffee, enjoyed the view. The clouds appeared to be sitting right on top of the mountain and we could see all the colors so vivid in the impressionists paintings and why all the artists love it so. Drove the winding road down and back to Perne for dinner at home.

Mon:
Sunny and very cool and windy. Left for Gordes, beautiful, touristy place but so picturesque - no wonder it was full of painters for the day. The town sat perched on a mountainside and made you want to just sit and look at it. A postcard in itself. Ran into many other untourists from our group. Went on to Rousillon and enjoyed this rust colored town. Had lunch in a nice little restaurant along with many other tourists. Went home through some of the winery towns. Back to Perne, lots of things are closed on Monday.

Tues:
Vaison La Romaine (one of my favorites) huge market on Tues. Like to have never found a parking place - (one time we weren't early). This market has it all - so don't miss it. Bought soaps, baked stuff, pastries, tapenade. Drove up on top of the mountain to the old village and had lunch outside at the Pizzaria. I Had wonderful pizza. Not sure what the other two had - we didn't recognize it. Had scenic drive home and stopped at the pretty town of Malacene and stopped for glass of wine at sidewalk cafe. Walked through the old village and visited the old church which had a very beautiful altarpiece carved in marble. Drove back through the wine towns and stopped for wine-tasting and bought the most wonderful cherries and wine. The lovely winelady did not speak any Englist but we had no problem communicating. The wine was fantastic. Really wanted to go back there before we left Provence. Had dinner in and relaxed.

Wed:
St Remy - market day. Nice market and found parking place. Made some purchases and went to the St. Paul Monastery where Van Gogh spent time and painted. Very interesting place. Also roman ruins nearby. We went on to Les Baux - many, many tourists, tour buses lined the mountain. Had lunch at cafe and headed down the mountain. Very good lunch. Wonderful ice cream from the stands for dessert. Made a grocery run and landlord came by and invited us over Sun. evening for drinks.

Thurs:
Stayed in and relaxed and then drove out to rest., Mas la Bonoty, to make reservation. Georgeous place, a restored farm house, restaurant, hotel. Its off the beaten path but worth a visit. We took pictures in the garden. Made reservations for Sat. night. Drove out to Fontain de la Vancluse which was a lovely drive and the village is very pretty but tends to be a little touristy but is well worth a visit. Not really overcrowded when we were there. Visted the paper mill (free) and looked in the shops. Had lunch - pizza again, very good. Went to the group dinner at the hotel in isle Sur la Sorgue which was a blast. All us Americans chatting to beat the band. Had a wonderful time and could hardly tear ourselves away. Found out some others would be joining us at our landlords Sun. evening. Got a big kick out of the frogs in the little pond at the hotel.

Fri:
Visited the bakery for breakfast as usual (a morning ritual). Today's the day for Mt. Ventoux. Just a beautiful drive, clear, sunny day, awesome scenery. Drove all the way up to the top. Stopped on the way up to look and visited with people from Holland. Not many people on mt. Ventoux (probably because we were out so early). Had coffee inside the rest. on top. Bought candy from the vendors outside. Went home by way of Sault which is a very lovely little village. We stopped and shopped and bought postcards, etc. Stopped in Mazan to look for church and sarcophaguses but it was noon and everything was closed and we never did find them. Scenic drive home - went to square for lunch, everything closed. Made reservations for dinner. Had a very nice dinner.

Sat:
Raining early. Sun out later and hung out clothes. TIP: Wash your clothes in the machine at night while you sleep and hang them out in the morning. Walked down to the weekly market and did some shopping for things for lunch and met up with some other untourists who came by later to see our house. We had a nice visit with them. Went to the elegant Mas La Bonoty for dinner and had a dining experience that was unforgettable (don't miss it). Three and one-half hours. Great.

Sun:
Avignon and checked out the train station for our trip to Paris and car drop off. Found without much of a problem. Went to Popes Palace and took little train ride through old town. Very enjoyable. Wanted to do boat ride but didn't have time. Had lunch at little cafe, Charles finally got some escargots. Went to landlords for drinks and had wonderful time visting with them and other untourists.

Mon:
Went to Senanque Abby, many tourists there but such a beautiful setting its worth the trouble. The monks have returned and found a way to make money. Went on to a favorite spot in Venasque. Ate at Les Ramparts, so windy we can't sit outside but still a great view from inside. Had a good lunch.

Tues:
Lazy morning, sat outside in the sun, not windy today. Decided to try to find a restaurant listed in the On site guide so we headed out. We didn't find it so went on in to Isle Sur la Sorgue and had lunch at sidewalk cafe. Looked in the shops, ate ice cream and went to our house to pack up.

Wed:
Went down to the Wed. morning flea market in Pernes and saw lots of good things but no room to carry it home. Back to the house to depart for the next leg of our trip. Farewell Provence.



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