Swiss Heartland Untour, Summer 2001
by Charlene & Mike Levine, Ellicott City, MD
WEDNESDAY AUG 1ST
HOT & SUNNYArrive Zurich 8:30 AM & met by Untours representatives
We are put on a train to Lucerne and transfer to a train to Meiringen. We are amazed by the beauty and vibrancy of the scenery – deep greenery, aquamarine lakes, quaint chalets surrounded by radiant flowers, and majestic mountains. Lydia & Ernst Brugger meet us at the station. Ernst takes the luggage & Lydia walks us to the home 4 blocks away.
After settling in to our Apartment – 2 bedrooms, a kitchen, bathroom, and a shared balcony, which looks onto a small mountain with a waterfall, we walk into town and lunch in the supermarket restaurant cafeteria.
We then walk thru town where we had our first glimpse of hang gliders, and CC finds a wallet and gives it to the shop owner. We take a lift and gondola to up to 2.mountain towns of Reuti and Bidni. When we return home we find a box of cookies. It turns out the wallet was owned by the Brugger’s neighbor and she gave us the cookies.
In the evening we trained to Brienz for dinner and to watch the Independence day festivities, which consisted of bonfires in town, on the lake, and on the mountain (one which was in the shape of the Swiss Cross) and fireworks displays seen throughout the area and on the train back “home”.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 2ND
HOT AND SUNNYWe breakfast in home with food provided by Untours – fresh loaf of bread, cheese, coffee, and home made jam from the Bruggers.
We have an orientation in town by Untours, which covers reading the very well integrated train/bus/boat schedules, and suggested activities, some of which are provided by Untours.
We then walk to and thru Aerschluet (Aer Gorge) - very impressive. On yesterday’s train ride we had sat across from a young Swiss couple who spoke little English. In showing them our travel materials, the husband pointing to Aer Gorge, said to his wife “Al Gore”, and they both laughed.
We then walked to Reichenbach Falls and took a funicular up to the Falls. This was the site in Arthur Conin Doyle’s book where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Morriiority plummeted to their deaths. Doyle later had to reincarnate Holmes due to the fans’ outrage at his demise. We climbed above the Falls and were unexpectedly greeted with the sights of a Bar, a cow and her calf, and a spectacular view of the valley below and the Meiringen.
We then returned to town for dinner and took a train to Interlaken where we did a little sightseeing.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 3RD
RAINOur plans for a mountain hike were changed by the weather. We decided on a trip to Lucerne which was 1 ½ hours by train, (assuming one took the right train). We didn’t.
Once in Lucerne, we stopped in Tourist Information in the Train Station. We got some info and coupons for free chocolate bars from a local grocery. Outside the Information Office, the CC & SC talked to a young man at a display booth for Titlis Mountain. The girls made such an impression on him, that he gave us each free passes to the top of the Mountain.
We then proceeded with a little site seeing, including the 14th century wooden bridge over the river, the concert center, the lion statute (reputed to be the saddest looking stone animal), the old Walls, and of course window shopping.
We then trained home and had dinner in town. Great Rosti.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 4TH
SUNNY IN AM, RAIN IN PMWe went shopping for breakfast and ate at home.
Trip to Thun sponsored by Untours. We trained to Interlochen and took a boat to Thun across the Thunersee. The lake was beautiful, and we later learned that this was a favorite American tourist spot.
We walked thru the town and had picnic lunch in Park. We then walked up to and thru the Castle and its museum. We then trained to Burn, the Capital. A beautiful city that reminded us of Venice, Paris, and Rome. We walked thru the shops under the Pavilion to the Bear Pit, and past the clock Tower that chimes 5 minutes before the hour. We had dinner at a sidewalk Café. The waiter said he was formerly the leading Portuguese marathoner.
We then trained home.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 5TH
CLOUDY IN AM, RAIN IN PMBreakfast at home. We trained to Interlochen and transferred to Lauterbrunnen, a town starting up in the mountains with some great views of mountains and waterfalls. After strolling thru town, we took a cog train up to Wengen.
Rather than proceeding to Mannlichen for the festival which was cancelled due to fog, and for our “Grandmother Hike”, we had lunch on a hotel balcony overlooking the mountains. We then hiked to Leiterhorn, a lookout point 2 hrs away.
We returned to Wengen, back down the mountain and trained to Interlochen for dinner. There were lots of hang gliders. We missed the 9:30 train by seconds (the trains do run on schedule), and had an hour wait in the train station. We needed the rest anyway after the hard day of hiking.
MONDAY, AUGUST 6TH
OVERCAST AND RAIN –AGAIN!!!Untours sponsored a trip to a cheesmaker. After breakfast, we walked to the lift, which took us thru Reuti and Bidni to Magiselp. We then watched Hans, Lotti and their 2 sons make cheese. Lotti took us to one of the huts where the 45lb wheels of cheese are stored. She has to turn and salt each wheel 2-3 times a week for the season. By the end of the summer, she has approx. 700 wheels of cheese –you can imagine the arms on this woman.
The mountainside is covered with cows that are brought up the mountain to feed and produce the milk for the cheese. Each cow is fitted with a bell, and the mountain is, at times, a crescendo of bells.
We had a hearty soup and salad lunch and then took a lift to Planplatton at the top of the mountain. The clouds were lifting , so we decided on taking the “Crème de la Crème” hike (which was posted as a 1 ¾ hr red and white hike). The Alpine views were incredible and the mountainside was covered with beautiful and varied wildflowers. And there was the periodic crescendo of bells. The rain came two thirds into our hike, and at the end we had a hard climb thru snow and up rocks. We finally (2.5 hrs) reached the end where we were fitted with ponchos and put on a single chair lift for 20 minute ride down the mountain to the town of Melcheese-Frutt.
We had a snack in town before taking another lift down to Stockalp, where we caught a Bus to Sarnen. We explored the town before catching a train to Meirengen. We had dinner at home – cheese bread, fruit, and meringue (the dessert named after the town).
TUESDAY, AUGUST 7TH
WEATHER –PERFECTUp at 7:30 and breakfast at market Cafeteria. We then trained to Brunig and shopped at antique store. Took a Bus to Huhflu for an architecture and history tour conducted by Untours. Some homes dated back to the 1300’s. We bought food at local grocery and bakery and took bus back to Brunig. CC bought a dish. We ate lunch on the train to Hergiswil and transferred to a train to Englberg.
We then walked over to base of Mt. Titlis, and using our free passes, took 3 lifts up to the top. We walked thru a glacier cave and outside where there was skiing and spectacular views. It was cold but pleasant. We then caught train to Hergiswil and had dinner overlooking the lake. Then a train home.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8TH
RAIN –AM; SUN PMBreakfast at home, then trained to Basil, thru Lucerne.
Bus to Kunze Museum and picnic lunch by Rhine River. We then took a city sponsored 2 hr walking tour of the old city (done in 3 languages). We saw the Rhine River area where Switzerland touches Germany and France, the knights’ section of town surrounded by the old walls, the University of Basil – the oldest university in Europe, Market plaza, City hall (beautiful decorations) and the Cathedral, (site of Erasmus’s tomb).
We then trained home and had dinner in town.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 9TH
PARTIAL SUN AM; RAIN REST OF DAYBreakfast in home. Train to Lautenbrunnen, thru Interlochen. We walked thru valley to Trumbelback Falls – a waterfall encased within a mountain. After lunch at a restaurant by the Falls, we took bus back to Lautenbrunnen.
There we took a funicular up to Grutschal and walked to Winteregg (this is ½ of Grandfather’s walk). We caught the train to Murren, which is a great ski resort. There was a young well-endowed young lady running the track – Man cannot live on alpine views alone.
We then took 2 cable cars down to Stichelberg, bused to Lauterbrunnen and trained to Interlochen East for dinner. Then trained to home.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 10TH
THICK OVERCAST AM; SUN PMBreakfast in home. Train to Zurich after short stop in Lucerne. We walked thru downtown area, Bahnstrasse, similar to old Howard Street, and had lunch in Dept store restaurant. The City was preparing for the next day’s “Tolerance and Understanding Rally” (over 1million attended). The city also was adorned with park benches, similar to Baltimore’s “fish” displays.
We took a walking tour of city - bilingual. which included the St. Peter’s Church with the largest clock face- bigger the Big Ben, Fraumunster Cathedral with Chagall’s widows- David has horns, the old town, Grossmunster Cathedral,– supposedly built by Charlemagne, and Niederdorf- the red light district but tame.
We then walked by the Lake and the quays. Then trained home. It was 8 PM and our plumbing was not working. We reported this to the Bruggers. They called the plumber who said he’d be there after 10. At 10:03 there was a knock at our door. – Swiss efficiency.
SATURDAY, AUGUST 11TH
SUNNY – ALASCC & I went grocery shopping, then breakfast in home. WE walked thru Meiringen and a little flea market in plaza. We then took a bus trip thru 3 passes - Grimsel, Furka, and Susten from 11 AM to 6 PM. There were spectacular views of glaciers, mountains, valleys and waterfalls. We went thru and stopped at some interesting towns; Oberwald - a great skiing area, Realp - had a golf course, Andermatt. We also saw glider planes.
The buses in climbing and descending the mountains traveled narrow switchbacks. Often, cars coming the other way were required to back up to spot wide enough for the bus to squeeze past. We then took a train to Interlochen for a festival and dinner.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 12TH
SUNNYBreakfast in home, Train to Interlochen, Lautenbrunnen, and Wengen and then lift to Mannlichen for a festival. We saw men playing the huge mountain horns. We then hiked to Kline Sheidigg – 2hrs, where we were greeted with a mountain bike race. Enroute, we were treated with great mountain views, especially of the Eiger. We saw rock climbers, and of course we heard the crescendo of bells.
We then took a long cog train to Grindenwald, and trained to Giswil where Untours sponsored a dinner complete with horn blowers and a yodler.
MONDAY, AUGUST 13TH
GLORIOUS SUNShopped before breakfast and ate at home.
Trained to Brienz and took boat to Giswell. We then walked up to the falls, and back down to the Grand Giswell Hotel. The Czar and Czarina used to summer at this beautiful hotel which has been recently renovated.
We lunched on the hotel balcony overlooking the lake –a must, and enjoyed a pleasant 2hr walk from the hotel along the lake to Istewald, a small town with very large and beautiful flowers throughout.
We then took a paddleboat to Interlaken. On this boat, below deck, was a children’s playroom with a an attendant – the Swiss provide well for the kids. We walked around Interlaken, just missed a boat, so we trained back home.
Our hosts had invited us to join them for wine, homemade ham and cheese puffs and apple cake and coffee. We ate and chatted for several hours in their backyard. Ernst, a retired cabinetmaker showed us his impressive rock collection, and knowing how I was gathering rocks on my walks, presented me with one of his rocks.
TUESDAY, AUGUST 14TH
SUN, SUN, SUNWe took our luggage to the train station, where it was checked all the way thru to Zurich airport- Swiss efficiency. We had breakfast in home and then took a bus to Rosenlai Falls. At the station, the bus was full, so the driver called for a 2nd one that came 10 minutes later, as promised. –Swiss efficiency. The falls was also part of a gorge. We then walked to the Rosenlai Hotel for lunch and caught the bus to Gross Scheidigg. We were provided with a 360-degree panoramic. We then took a scenic but tiring hike to First. CC almost got pushed off the side of mountain trail by a recalcitrant cow that stampeded down the path in spite of its owner’s commands. We then took a 30-minute lift ride down to Grindelwald- reported to be the longest lift in Europe. We dined in town and window-shopped. We trained home thru Interlaken.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 15TH
BRIGHT SUN – BUT DARKENED SPIRITSTime to come home. We had to clear out by 8 AM. Lydia explained that she had to wash all of the linens and towels by 11 AM in preparation for the new guests. The power to the washing machine is turned off at 11AM so people have power to cook. – Swiss efficiency?
We said our goodbye to Ernst and Lydia, walked thru town looking at the old Church and shops as we took our last trip to the Meiringen Train Station. Of course, the train arrived and departed on time , and we enjoyed our last views of the spectacular scenery out of the train windows.
A seasoned world traveler we met along the way commented that Switzerland was a country that exceeded all of its marketing. We truly were not prepared for the intensity of the beauty of this land!