Swiss Oberland Untour, Fall of 2003
by Dan & Barbara Plitt, Emmalena, KY
Day 1: Tuesday, September 23
Drove to Lexington, Kentucky this morning and had lunch with friends who would take us to the airport and keep our car for the next two weeks. Flew to Detroit and then on to JFK airport in New York. The flight from Detroit was late taking off. Bythe time we arrived at JFK, collected our luggage and checked in at the Swiss Airlines desk we just barely made our flight. The majority of passengers were Hasidic Jews heading to Israel for their Holy Days. Good dinner on the plane but we weren’t able to sleep much.Day 2: Wednesday, September 24
At daybreak we were somewhere over the English Channel and then crossing French countryside. After a light breakfast we arrived at Zurich airport at 8:00 a.m. Swiss time (2:00 a.m. Kentucky time!). Met the Untours group at the airport train station, got our rail passes validated and got a supply of Swiss francs. The group split up with some heading for Ticino, some to the Heartland and the rest of us to the Oberland via Bern. Along the way our Idyll representative, Agnes, gave us some general information and also directions to the meeting place for tomorrow’s orientation in Spiez. Arrived in Kandersteg, our home for the next two weeks, around 12:30 and were met by our landlord, Walater Holzer. Our luggage, which had been checked through all the way from New York was waiting for us at the station. On the way to our apartment, Walter pointed out several stores, the post office, the tourist information office and other places we might need to know in the village. Our apartment is a ground floor studio with windows overlooking a yard and flowers. After a couple of hours to nap we wandered around town and did some food shopping to supplement the basic supplies which were provided in the apartment. Weather is cloudy and cool with a light mist - not very pleasant. Early to bed tonight!Day 3: Thursday, September 25
Awoke to clear, sunny skies and got our first glimpse of the surrounding scenery which had been hidden yesterday. Very high, rocky mountains with some snow all around us, a beautiful setting. Caught the 9:35 train to Spiez for the orientation. Met another Untours couple, Mark and Irene from the Chicago area, on the train and discovered that he was a retired pastor and that we had several mutual acquaintances. It’s a small world! The meeting was very informative and would prove to be a big help in using the train and bus timetables which were in our apartment. Agnes also told us about a couple of group events which we were welcome to participate in. After a pleasant lunch together, we joined another couple, Ralph and Darlene from Colorado, for a walk to the cathedral and to the Spiez castle. Climbed to the top of the tower and enjoyed the view, then walked down to Thunersee and caught a boat to Thun. Along the way had a great view back across the lake to the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. Did some grocery shopping in a store at the train station and then got back home by 6:25. Our apartment is about a ten-minute walk from the station. Enjoyed a good supper and then planned our activities for the next day.Day 4: Friday, September 26
Another bright, sunny day. Caught the 8:25 train to Brig and changed there to the smaller red train which would take us to Zermatt. A fascinating trip with some very steep sections where the train had to engage its cog wheel. Houses and villages in very high, isolated areas. In Zermatt we visited an interesting Alpine Museum which focused on those who had climbed, or attempted to climb the Matterhorn, as well as local natural history. Had lunch in a small restaurant - bratwurst in a brown onion gravy, rosti and salad. Walked out of town a ways toward the Matterhorn and then back to the train station. Stopped for an hour in Brig to do some shopping at a large Migros store and then back home by 5:45. In the evening we went out for a walk to the lift station, which is just a few minutes from our apartment, and then around the village.Day 5: Saturday, September 27
Beautiful weather again. The regularly scheduled Untours group to a mountain cheese maker had been cancelled. Because of dry weather farmers were bringing their cows down earlier than usual. The trip itself sounded so interesting that we decided to go on our own. Got the blue bus at 10:15 for Reichenbach and then changed to a small postal bus which was towing a trailer for luggage. Along the way on a very narrow, winding road we had to stop twice for herds of cows coming down from the mountain. Cows have right of way! They were all decorated with headdresses of flowers and evergreens and were wearing very large bells. After driving into what seemed to be the head of a box canyon, we started up, and up, and up past several waterfalls, with switchback after switchback. Arriving at Griesalp, at the top of the mountain we found, to no surprise, an inn and a restaurant. Seems like no mountaintop in Switzerland is complete without them. We walked a way further up the mountain and enjoyed a picnic lunch at a deserted spot in a sheep pasture. The view was spectacular and the only sounds were the birds, rushing water and cowbells off in the distance. Got back to the apartment at 4:30 after stopping at the bakery for bread and some treats. Supper at the Hotel Zur Post. Barb had a port cutlet with a wonderful sauce and Dan enjoyed perch filets. Had our dessert at home and got to bed early.Day 6 - Sunday, September 28
A gray, misty day when we went to the station. Took the scenic route to Montreux via Spiez and Zweisimmen. A portion of the trip was on the Panorama Express. Traveled through Gstaad, a playground of the rich and famous, and then had a great view over Lake Geneva as we descended into Montreux. As we walked around the city it started to rain. Found a very good restaurant in the Hotel Helvetie. Had a delicious dinner special of sliced beef in a peppercorn sauce, mashed potatoes, veggie medley and a flan dessert. The setting was very French-like and airy. It started raining harder as we walked to the ship station. Ship schedule didn’t work out, and because of the weather we decided to head home on a different route up the Rhone valley. Hillsides were terraced all the way up with vineyards and orchards. Got home by 4:30. After sandwiches and soup Barb got to bed early. Dan was flipping through channels on the TV and just happened to pick up the U.S. Grand Prix from Indianapolis. A Swiss owned car finished in the top three, much to the delight of some acquaintances as we discovered the next day.Day 7 - Monday, September 29
A god day weatherwise. We were out early and met the Untours group in Thun for a trip to a commercial cheese factory and a hike through the farmland. Took a small regional train and then a bus to Affoltern. The factory also had a demonstration mountain cheese hut so visitors could see cheese made the old fashioned way. Had lunch with the group there - alpine macaroni and cheese rosti. We hiked about an hour and a half through beautiful farmland with great views and interesting houses. Enjoyed getting to know some of the other Untourists. Came to one farm that had a stand alongside the road with fresh flowers and gourds for sale. No one there to take payment - just a box to leave cash under the honor system! Hiked to Lueg, then got a red bus to Burgdorf. The group split up there and we headed for home via Bern. Shopped for bread, meat and sweets and were home by 4:30. It rained a little in the evening, but mostly clear.Day 8 - Tuesday, September 30
Clear and sunny all day. Travelled to Ballenberg open-air folk museum on three trains and a bus, via Interlaken and Brienz. A very interesting place where old houses (some from the 1500’s and 1600’s) from all over Switzerland had been reconstructed and grouped according to their regions. It was so big we completely missed one section. We were wondering what we would do for lunch when we came to one house where an old man was cooking pea soup in a big kettle over an open fire. For just a few coins we enjoyed a bowl of soup sitting at a rough wooden table in an old farm kitchen. Left Ballenberg at 3:30 and bought some good chocolate candy while we waited for the bus. We missed one connection at Spiez by just a couple of minutes and waited an hour for the next train. Home at 6:30 and had soup and sandwiches for supper. Packed sandwiches and snacks for our trip tomorrow and then took a walk around the village.Day 9 - Wednesday, October 1
Left on a rainy, cloud morning for a three-day trip that would take us to Ticino and then northeastern Switzerland. Took a train to Brig and then another that took us through part of Italy. Our passports were checked at the Italian border, but no one even looked at them at the Swiss crossing. Ended up in a first class car by mistake on the Centovalli train but the conductor didn’t say anything when he checked our passes so we stayed. Interesting trip crossing some very high, very old stone bridges over very deep gorges. Ate our lunch on the train. Arrived in Locarno at 1:30. We had found the Hotel Del Angelo on the internet, and got there after a stop at the tourism office for directions. The hotel was filled up with a tour group, but they had a room for us in the annex, a very old building next door. The room had high ceilings and featured floor to ceiling glass doors opening onto a second floor balcony which overlooked the city’s main plaza. The bathroom was down the hall! Walked around town and along the lake in a light rain, and enjoyed some roasted chestnuts which we had bought at a small stand. Later had dinner in an Italian restaurant. Did some more sightseeing along the lakefront at night and got good ice cream cones.Day 10 - Thursday, October 2
Had a very good breakfast in the hotel and made sandwiches for lunch using their rolls, meat and cheese. Spent some time walking around the plaza where all sort of vendors had set up booths. Barb bought a gift for a friend back home. Got a train at 9:59 and after an interesting four-hour trip with three changes arrived in Appenzell. After walking through town we found a very nice room with a good shower in the Hotel Hof. The only downside, as we discovered later, was that our windows opened onto a very busy intersection and it seemed like the traffic was non-stop all night long. Weather was beautiful and warm all day. Visited a very interesting historical museum which was connected to the tourism office. Spent quite a bit of time just walking around the town, both before and after dark. Had a good supper in the hotel dining room. Called our granddaughter to wish her a happy birthday and talked with our daughter and son-in-law. We found that the pay phones in Switzerland operate on credit cards and are very reasonable. A twenty-minute call to the States cost less than $3.00.Day 11 - Friday, October 3
Woke up to a pretty heavy rain, so we were in no hurry to get out today. After breakfast at the hotel we took a train to Urnasch and then a postal bus to the Santis gondola station at Schwagalp. The mountain was covered in fog, so we decided it would not be worth a trip on. We did enjoy an unexpected treat, though, as we heard music coming from a commercial cheese factory across the road from the gondola station. They were preparing for a weekend festival and had a large tent set up. Inside a brass quintet was practicing and they were playing all old, familiar hymns. It was a beautiful, mellow sound echoing through the mountains. Took the bus back to Urnasch and then a train to Gais, a small town we had visited eleven years ago. Had a delicious lunch at the Hotel Krone. Back to Appenzell and found another museum which we had missed earlier. We had enjoyed the mango ice cream so much yesterday that we decided to get another cone in mid-afternoon. Checked out several restaurant menus but ended up back at our hotel where we got cheese toast. Started to take an after supper walk, but it rained again so it was back to our noisy room for the night.Day 12 - Saturday, October 4
Still raining when we got up. Neither of us slept too well because of all the traffic. After breakfast at the hotel got a train for the two hour forty minute trip to Luzern. Had lunch at the railroad station but it was not very good - sort of Swiss fast food. Spent some time walking around the old city and across the covered bridge. Many of the buildings had paintings on them. Lots of swans on the water. Bought some groceries at a store in the station, including some deli olives which were delicious. Train trip through the Brunig Pass had great views both up and down. One lake was a beautiful aqua color. Made connections in Brienz and Interlaken with only seconds to spare and got home at 4:30. Had sandwiches for supper and made plans for tomorrow.Day 13 - Sunday, October 5
On our 41st anniversary we woke up to snow and 39 degrees - very surprised. We were told that they seldom have snow this early. We weren’t about to let that interfere with our trip today. Took the train to Interlaken, then on to Lauterbrunnen where we boarded the funicular for a very steep trip up the mountain. Another small train from there to Murren. Walked from one end of town to the other in lots of snow. Not much was open on a Sunday morning. We got some coffee and plum kuchen at the gondola station for the Schiltlhornbahn. No use going higher in this weather so we took the two stage gondola back down to the valley floor and then the postal bus and train to Interlaken. Met more Americans today (two groups of college kids) than we have the whole trip. Walked through town from Interlaken Ost toInterlaken West, stopping for lunch at a hotel. Had barley soup, which hit the spot on a cold, snowy day. Barb also had a turkey cutlet and Dan a mushroom omelet. For a change of scenery decided to take the postal bus along the other shore of the Thunersee. Traveled through several small towns between the cliffs and the lake. Made good connections all day with no long waits and got home at 4:30. Had some good, fat hot dogs for supper. More snow in the evening.Day 14 - Monday, October 6
Sunny this morning with some snow on the ground. Took the blue bus and a local train to the Niesenbahn station. The funicular ride was about 30 minutes straight up the mountain side. Abut half way up we had to change to another funicular. As we got higher we reached the snow line and heavy clouds, then shortly we were above the clouds. Had coffee at the restaurant on the mountain top with a wonderful view of the surrounding mountain peaks and valleys. Got back home at 2:30 and rested for a while before a busy evening. Dan confirmed flight plans and met with Walter, our landlord, to make arrangements for getting our luggage to the station the net day. At 4:30 we took the train to Spiez and met the Untours group. We traveled together by bus to Aeschi, high above Lake Thun, for our farewell dinner at the Chemihutte. Had a very enjoyable time with about 27 people. Good food, good fellowship and entertainment by a group who sang and yodeled. The man with the group played an accordion like instrument and also an alphorn. It was a magical time overlooking the lake, the alps and hearing Swiss music. Got home by 9:30 after a full day.Day 15 - Tuesday, October 7
Rained off and on all day (mostly on), temperature at a steady 42 and quite windy. Took a long walk to the southern end of Kandersteg since we hadn’t been in that direction before. Many old houses, one dating to 1556. Stopped at the Landgasthof Ruedihus, a 250 year old inn, for some coffee and kuchen. Found to our surprise that the cherry kuchen was heavily laced with something that helped to take the chill off our bodies! Did a little shopping, but the stores were closing at noon. At 1:30 we went upstairs to our landlord’s house to have coffee and dessert. Had a pleasant visit with them, a son and grandson, a daughter and a neighbor lady. At 4:00 Walter drove us to the station where we checked our luggage through to New York. Shopped some more and spent the last of our Swiss change at the food store on goodies to take home. After a short rest we met our friends Mark and Irene, and Ralph and Darlene for supper at the Victoria Ritter Hotel. Had a good meal and enjoyable conversation together. Got home by 9:00 and tried to dry out our soggy clothes and shoes for the trip home. Fortunately the apartment had a good, warm radiator. We had walked most of the day in the rain.Day 16 - Wednesday, October 8
Got up early and cleaned the apartment. Walter drove us to the station to catch the 8:35 train. It had snowed again overnight. Sat and chatted with Mark and Irene the whole way to the Zurich airport. Our flight was an hour late departing. Had a beautiful farewell view of the Alps as our plane rose above the clouds. The mountaintops were sitting above a sea of fluffy white. Had a hot lunch and then ham sandwiches for a light supper on the flight. Got to New York in plenty of time to make our connection, than had a long layover in Cleveland before the final leg of our journey. We were both tired and hungry - split a personal pan pizza from the airport Pizza Hut. Arrived in Lexington about ten minutes early and just collected our luggage when our friends came to pick us up. After a short visit with them we were ready for bed. It had been twenty hours since we left - a very long day, but everything went well. Headed home the next morning after breakfast and got there early in the afternoon.All in all we had a wonderful two weeks in Switzerland. The transportation system (trains, buses, boats, funiculars, etc.) is fantastic and we took full advantage of it. We found that by eating breakfast and one other meal a day at the apartment (or picnicking) and one meal out, we were able to stay well within our budget. The help from Idyll staff on both ends was great. Plans are already in the works for an Untours trip to Salzburg, Austria in 2005.