Swiss Oberland Untour, Summer of 2003
by Don Stieghan, Loudon, TN
This record may not be terribly exciting to anyone else, but it is really intended to be a record for me to help me recall experiences, places and the sequence of events. This trip will always remain a high point in my memory, but the details may blur with the passage of time, and I want to avoid forgetting anything that happened.
Peter Hauswirth, the landlord of our first apartment, the Esther apartment in Frutigen, is a graduate engineer (Dipl. Ing. ETH/SIA), who is a member of a group of engineers who do civil engineering consulting, and he also is the surveyor for the Frutigen area. He draws the city maps for Frutigen. We used that map to find our way around town. He is one of the surveyors determining the underground route of the Lötschberg base tunnel that starts at Frutigen and traverses under the mountains almost to Brig, a distance of a little over 21 miles (34.6 km). He was very gracious to take me to a tunnel museum to show me what he did. (See the English language web site at www.blsalptransit.ch.) The surveyors take readings at five sites along the length of the tunnel tubes to determine directions based on readings from global positioning satellites (five or six measurements at each site). Then the surveyors use laser-surveying devices to guide the digging up to 200 feet below the surface. When the tunnels meet (being dug from two directions), they can not be over 5 centimeters off (about a foot) in height and 10 centimeters off (about two feet) in width.
Peter had an interesting map in his office. It was a map of the USA, and he had drawn a map of Switzerland on the same scale as the USA map. The size of Switzerland from border to border is about 220 miles east to west and 140 miles north to south. It was quite a revelation to see how small Switzerland is. With the Switzerland map cutout centered over Knoxville, all three of our children (in Georgia and South Carolina) live outside the boundary of Switzerland. (Note that if Switzerland were mashed out flat, it would be much larger.) Of course, no railroad line or road in the alps is straight for more that a short distance so travel requires more distance that just the “flat” mileage. Perhaps the nearest route of straight-line travel is in the tunnels, which are common in the mountains.
Most of the Swiss people we met had not traveled very much around their own country. They were surprised at how much of Switzerland we visited in a short time. However, they are very physically active. Hikers were everywhere all the time we were there, and of course, they ski in the winter.
This is a listing of my daily notes made during the trip. I hope that my written words convey my thrill with the experiences and sights. Even the missed trains and tiring walking seem exciting in retrospect.
Date: 07/01/03 Day: Tuesday
Place: Home to the Knoxville airport to the Newark, NJ airport to crossing the Atlantic OceanWeather: Light rain in Knoxville (outer edge of Hurricane Bill) / partly cloudy at Newark / cloudy over the ocean
Travel / Lodging: CO 2467 Knoxville, TN to Newark, NJ, then CO 78 Newark, NJ to Zürich, Switzerland
Notes: Even though there was light rain in Knoxville, the Continental flight left on time. Arrival at Newark was a little earlier than scheduled. We flew in clouds until about 30 minutes before landing. Flight was mostly smooth. We used an electric cart to change gates at the Newark airport. The Continental flight to Zürich left on time. There was a TV monitor for each seat. Flight data was shown continuously on one channel, including air speed, elevation, time at departure airport, time at aircraft location, time at destination airport, and the estimated time of arrival at the destination. The route of the flight was shown as a plot with outlines of landmasses with important city names. The flying altitude was 35,000 feet for about the first 4 hours and then 39,000 feet for the remainder.
Date: 07/02/03 Day: Wednesday
Place: Landing at the Zürich airport (flughafen) and then by train to Bern and on to Frutigen.Weather: Overcast with scattered showers in Zürich. / partly cloudy and cool at Frutigen
Travel / Lodging: Flying on Continental 78 to landing at Zürich airport, then train to Frutigen. We arrived at the Esther apartment in Frutigen.
Notes: The overcast skies with occasional rain continued until mid morning. At the airport, we validated our Swiss rail pass and used an ATM to obtain Swiss francs. Then with our Untours escort, we traveled by train to our first apartment town of Frutigen. We arrived at Frutigen on schedule and were met at the railroad station by Peter Hauswirth. Our baggage that had been checked at the Knoxville airport arrived on the same train that we did without our having to handle it. Peter took us in his car to our apartment, which is the upper floor of his home. We met his wife Esther and Betty, a neighbor who speaks perfect English. Betty was a great help to communicate with the Hauswirths, who speak English with about the same fluency that I speak the German dialect spoken in Switzerland. The Hauswirths had wine, cheese, bread and cookies for a welcome party. They explained the operation of the apartment features also. It was a very enjoyable start. I was asleep by 9:00 PM local time, which was about 3:00 PM in the eastern time zone of the day after we awoke at Tellico Village at 7:30 AM.
Date: 07/03/03 Day: Thursday
Place: Frutigen and SpiezWeather: Cool and rainy in the early morning / partly cloudy and warm later / rain overnight
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. Took train in the morning from Frutigen to Spiez (next town to the north) and returned in the late afternoon.
Notes: We attended the Untours orientation, led by Agnes and Marietta of the Untours staff, in Spiez. Stopped at another ATM in Spiez and withdrew more Swiss francs. Now we knew that both of our cash cards worked (wunderbar!). Took a fast train to Frutigen and shopped at the COOP grocery before returning to the apartment.
During a light rain just before sunset, I photographed a double rainbow, which appeared to be very close (in the valley in front of our apartment). The views from both the front and the back of the apartment were stunning. We never tired of it.
The Engstige River flows swiftly through Frutigen. It combines with the Kander River just north of Frutigen.
Date: 07/04/03 Day: Friday
Place: FrutigenWeather: Rain showers early turning to moderately heavy rain by 8:00 AM / scattered showers in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. Had planned to take a trip up the Niesen Mountain just north of Frutigen, but decided to delay the trip because of the rain and cold. (We never did get to Niesen Mountain, although we saw it many times from the train.) We stayed in the apartment most of the day. There was no heat, so I wore a jacket.
Notes: In the morning, I took pictures of the mountains surrounding our apartment in the valley. There was snow on the highest peaks. I read guides, planned trips and rested. I discovered the Swiss weather report on channel 1 of the TV starting at 8:00 AM. We walked around Frutigen in the afternoon in light rain showers. I spent some time learning to use features of my digital camera. Neither of us slept well in our new lodgings during the night, but then Carol slept until noon. Surprise, surprise! There was no 4th of July celebration.
Date: 07/05/03 Day: Saturday
Place: Frutigen to Schwarzsee to FrutigenWeather: Partly cloudy and cool
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. Took train from Frutigen to Thun, where we met Marietta of the Untours staff and changed trains to go to Bern, and changed trains again to travel to Fribourg. We changed from train to bus to travel to the Schwarzsee (Black Lake) and returned in reverse order on our own.
Notes: The Untours sponsored trip to the Schwarzsee provided opportunities to use the train and bus systems. The Schwarzsee was not a very important area (except for hikers), but it was a beautiful area. On the return, Carol and I took a “trolley” sightseeing trip in Fribourg. This is an important area due to the carefully preserved architecture. There were many building, walls and bridges from the 1600’s. Since we had started early and walked more than usual, we napped when we returned to the apartment. Then we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner. We saw a few paragliders above the mountains behind our apartment. I made reservations at the Frutigen railway station for reserved seats on the Panorama Express from Spiez to Montreux for Tuesday. We arrived home too late from the Schwarzsee trip to buy groceries, so we had to make do with what we have on hand until Monday.
Date: 07/06/03 Day: Sunday
Place: Frutigen with side trips around the area.Weather: Bright sunshine for the first time and warm to cool with wind / glorious day
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We stayed around the Frutigen apartment, except I ventured out to take several bus trips to learn how to use the local bus system. It turned out to be easy and convenient.
Notes: We slept late. Woke up to bright sunshine and saw mountains in the distance that we did not know were there. Paragliders and hang gliders were in the air all day. I saw 22 in the air at one time. We watched them off and on all day - fascinating! I used the busses that stop in Frutigen for the first time. I rode to Reichenbach and Blausee and returned, all in about an hour with good connections. We rested and planned rail trips for the next week.
I spent some time with Peter and Esther and their neighbors. Peter invited me into his basement to see his shop and storage for his trains that run on the outdoor tracks in the yard. It is quite an elaborate layout. He is also a competition shooter of pistols and rifles. He has 110 medals displayed and many more in storage. The basement includes a bomb shelter in case of atomic attack, now used for storage.
We had a delightful dinner on the outdoor terrace of the Hotel National in Frutigen. We watched paragliders approaching their landing field and watched the mountains change from sunlight to shadow.
Date: 07/07/03 Day: Monday
Place: Frutigen and GriesalpWeather: Beautiful sunshine all day / It was cool in the morning, warm in the afternoon and cool again at night.
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We took the local bus to Reichenbach from Frutigen. Transferred to the Post bus to travel up the Griesalp valley and mountain, and then transferred to a special short Post bus to continue to the end of the line.
Notes: We woke up to our alarm at 7:00 AM to be able to catch an early bus. It was bright sunshine outside, but the outside Swiss metal blinds that can be retracted had kept the bedroom dark. Wunderbar! We caught a local bus at 9:17 AM in front of the Frutigen Verkersbüro (travel information office), which was a walk of only three or four blocks from our apartment. After a short ride, we arrived at Reichenbach, where we transferred to the Post bus for the ride up the valley toward Griesalp. At the last stop for this bus, we transferred to a special short bus for the switchback road up the mountain. There were several rather spectacular waterfalls viewed only by the limited number of people who venture up this road. It is a private road, whose costly maintenance is paid for by the few residents on this alpine mountain and the bus passengers.
We discovered that the “grandmother’s” trail to the farm where cheese is made was more challenging that expected. We brought up the rear, but made it. We saw alpcheese made and bought some for our use. Then we had to walk another half mile to the restaurant and another half-mile back to the bus stop. Fortunately, another Untours vacationer who is a hiker loaned Carol a walking stick (wanderstock in German), and it was a tremendous help. We then reversed the busses and train route back to Frutigen. The entire trip except for the last sector on the short Post bus was included as part of our train pass. We stopped off at the Frutigen COOP for groceries. After a quick dinner at the apartment, we went to bed early.
Date: 07/08/03 Day: Tuesday
Place: Frutigen to Thun to Lake Thun cruise to Interlaken to Spiez to FrutigenWeather: Sunny all day / cool in the morning and warm in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. Took local bus to the railroad station and caught the fast train to Thun. Walked the short distance to the quay, and caught the dampfschiff (restored steam powered side-wheel ship) to Interlaken. We caught a train back to Spiez, and another train to Frutigen. At the train station, we caught a local bus back to a stop near our apartment.
Notes: In the morning, we decided to take the boat ride on Lake Thun (Tunnersee). We missed the local bus, so we walked to the Frutigen train station to catch the fast train north to Thun. We arrived at the train station later than we would have if we had caught the bus, and a train facing north was sitting on the track. Even though we were not sure that it was the train we wanted, we hurried on. It turned out to be the correct train.
In Thun, we walked several blocks to the EPA department store and had lunch in their cafeteria. (Metal detectors at their doors alarmed me every time we passed through. It could have been my metal hip replacement. I never found out because no one ever tried to stop me.) We caught the afternoon trip on the lake boat and traveled to Interlaken. It was a beautiful, relaxing time. We met a couple from Fort Worth, Texas on a bus tour who did not know where they were or had been or were going. It seemed tragic to me, but they seemed to be enjoying themselves anyway. Our bus, train and boat trips were covered by our Swiss Pass, so all we had to do was show the pass and travel to suit ourselves. At Interlaken, we walked about half a mile to a sports shop where Carol bought a hiking stick like the one she had borrowed at Griesalp. It really helps her walk. The walk back to the train station was easier than the walk to the shop.
Date: 07/09/03 Day: Wednesday
Place: Frutigen to Reichenbach to Spiez to Zweisimmen to Montreux to Lausanne (both in the French-speaking area of Switzerland) to Bern to FrutigenWeather: Overcast and hazy until mid afternoon, then sunny and warm.
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We took the bus to Reichenbach and train to Spiez. Caught train to Zweisimmen and continued by train to Montreux. Used city buses to Château Chillon and return to train station. We took a train to Lausanne, then train to Bern and on to Frutigen. We caught a local bus to a stop near our apartment.
Notes: Woke up at 7:00 AM. I decided it was a good day for laundry. Washed clothes in the kitchen sink and hung out to dry on the rack on the balcony for air-drying. I heard what sounded like cows bellowing somewhere close by. I grabbed my camera and walked toward the sounds. It turned out to be sale day at the Marktplatz (market place), with young cattle in the barn and tethered outside. The “cowboys” all wore blue coats (like lab coats).
Later, we caught the local bus to Reichenbach where we transferred to the Spiez local train. At Spiez, we transferred to the train to Zweisimmen. At Zweisimmen, we transferred to the Panorama train, but discovered that the engine with the seats in the front over the engineer that we had reserved was not there because the engine had a mechanical failure before the trip. We sat in regular first class seats, and I was extremely disappointed. This was one of the special railway trips that I particularly wanted to take. They returned our reservation fee and finally gave us a box of chocolates for our trouble. No one seemed to have a clue why there was no notification given before we boarded the train. At first, no one in Montreux knew that the engines had been switched until the conductor came into the office. I could not follow the conversation in French, but he was obviously upset that even he was not notified ahead of time.
We caught a city bus for the short ride to Château Chillon, the subject of Lord Byron’s poem, The Prisoner of Chillon. It was very interesting, but the walking tour was physically demanding and included climbing many stairs. Then we caught the city bus back to the train station in Montreux and the train on to Lausanne. Then we discovered that the train from Lausanne to Bern no longer has the dining car we had expected to use. We had sandwiches and drinks at our seat on the upper level of the car, which was not quite the same as the dining car meal we had planned.
Date: 07/10/03 Day: Thursday
Place: Frutigen and nearbyWeather: Sunshine with haze in morning / clear and sunny later / comfortable temperature
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We rode busses to Adelboden and the Blausee.
Notes: After yesterday’s tiring trip, we slept late, another Untours advantage. After breakfast, I went shopping at the Frutigen COOP while Carol washed her clothes. After lunch and a brief rest, we caught the bus to Adelboden at the Marktplatz stop. After about 30 minutes in Adelboden, where I bought a souvenir hat with the Swiss white cross on it, we caught the next bus back to the Frutigen railway station. After a short layover, we caught the Kandersteg bus and rode as far as the Blausee, where we had delightful trout dinners. While we ate, we watched the trout in the Blausee, which is really more of a pond than a lake. We saw beautiful mountains and streams. The farmers were busy making hay, sometimes on meadows that were too steep for machinery. We saw some farmers raking the cut hay into piles and moving it to a pick-up point on a tarp.
Date: 07/11/03 Day: Friday
Place: Frutigen to Zermatt to FrutigenWeather: Warm and clear until late afternoon when it became very warm and cloudy
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. Train trip to Zermatt and return.
Notes: It was just the day I wanted for a trip to see the Matterhorn. It was cool and sunny with clear blue skies in Zermatt. The views of the Matterhorn and the adjacent mountains were spectacular. At last, I have pictures of the Matterhorn without clouds in the way.
We had raclette (melted raclette cheese with boiled potatoes, pickled onions and very small cucumber pickles) for lunch in Zermatt, the location of our first introduction to raclette several years ago. We rode a funicular in a tunnel to the Sunnegga station, which provided a wonderful view of the Matterhorn and Gornergrat at a much lower price than the ticket to the Gornergrat would have cost. The train ride home was too warm and we were tired from walking so far. Carol’s wanderstock proved invaluable. After a soup, salad and crackers dinner in the apartment, we retired by 10:00 PM for a restful sleep.
Date: 07/12/03 Day: Saturday
Place: FrutigenWeather: Cool and enough breeze to keep the apartment very comfortable / more clouds late in the day
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment.
Notes: Shopped for groceries for the weekend. All the stores and many of the restaurants are closed on Sundays.
Sent e-mails and checked my messages on the landlord’s computer. It took a little practice to use the German language keyboard. The y and z are transposed and all the special characters are on the keyboard, but some require unusual combinations of keys. I soon learned enough to get by. Peter, our landlord, showed us his model trains and his workshops and his display of shooting medals. This was mostly just a quiet, restful day in the apartment and around Frutigen. This is one of the real advantages of an Untours trip. We determined when we needed a day of rest and did just exactly what we wanted to do. There was no schedule set by someone else for us to follow. It is really the best way to travel, at least for us.
Date: 07/13/03 Day: Sunday
Place: Frutigen to Spiez to Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen to Steckelberg to Mürren to Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken to Spiez to FrutigenWeather: Clear skies / cool in the morning and hot in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We took a train from Frutigen to Spiez, where we changed to a train to Interlaken and then to another train to Lauterbrunnen. We transferred to the local bus to Steckelberg, where we boarded the cable car to an intermediate station, and another cable car to Mürren. Then we took a streetcar-type train to the funicular station, and took the funicular down the mountain to Lauterbrunnen. There we caught trains back to Interlaken, Spiez and Frutigen.
Notes: This was a big day for travel to see the Jungfrau (Young Woman or Virgin), Mönch (Monk, guarding the Jungfrau) and Eiger (Devil) peaks south of Interlaken. Other Untours visitors staying in Frutigen recommended the routing, which was all covered by the Swiss Pass. The train to Kleine Scheidegg and the Jungfraujoch does get closer, but it is the most expensive train trip in Switzerland, and not covered by the Swiss Pass. Since it was Sunday, all of the modes of transportation were crowded, but we made all the connections. We did have to sit separated on the bus.
The two cable car trips were steep but smooth (a plus for me). Upon arrival in Mürren, we were consulting our information about the town when a young woman offered to help. It turned out that she was from Australia, but working in Mürren. She recommended a restaurant “where the locals eat.” It was an excellent choice, with a great view of the Jungfrau from the outdoor terrace where we ate. I had raclette and Carol had cheese fondue, both were excellent.
The train trips from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken to Spiez were not air-conditioned (all 2nd class cars). Back at the apartment, we took a refreshing nap before dinner.
Date: 07/14/03 Day: Monday
Place: Frutigen to Spiez to Aeschi to Spiez to FrutigenWeather: Hot all day / left windows open at night for the first time / clear skies
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. We took local bus to train station in Frutigen, then train to Spiez. At the Spiez train station, We transferred to the local bus to Aeschi. After the end of the Untours dinner and program, we reversed the route to Frutigen. We completed the trip on the local bus to the Marktplatz near our apartment.
Notes: I had intended to take the local bus to the information center for the new railroad tunnel, but I spent too much time looking for a camera lens cover to replace the one I lost the previous day. Since it was a very hot day, I stayed at the apartment until the time to leave for the Untours dinner and party in Aeschi. We were entertained by two female yodelers, accompanied by a man with a button accordion. They got everyone involved “making music” with a very long alphorn and various kitchen utensils. It was a fun party.
The bus trips to and from Aeschi were very scenic but the bus was hot. On the return trip, we arrived at the Spiez train station just in time to catch the fast train to Frutigen. The train arrived a few minutes late at Frutigen, but the Adelboden bus had waited. I do not know how the bus driver knew we were coming. After quick showers (a sweaty day), we went directly to bed.
Date: 07/15/03 Day: Tuesday
Place: Frutigen and MitholzWeather: Sunny and hot in the morning / clouds and light rain followed by thunderstorms in the late afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment. I took an automobile trip to Mitholz to visit the Lötschberg base tunnel information center.
Notes: We packed two suitcases to ship by train to Lungern. I took some more pictures around the apartment grounds. Our landlord, Peter Hauswirth, took me to the railway station in his car to ship our two big suitcases, and then we drove on to Mitholz (near Kandersteg) to tour the information center for the Lötschberg base tunnel. Peter is a surveyor on this massive project. The tunnel starts just south of Frutigen and extends south to just north of Brig, with some major work underway near Mitholz. It will provide faster service for non-stop passenger and freight trains from the southern border of Switzerland to Frutigen. Surveying is a crucial step because they expect each of the tunnel sections of about 10-km (6.5 miles) long to meet so close together. We hosted a wine, cheese and sweets party for Peter, Esther and Betty (Rudy was working) in the late afternoon. It was very enjoyable.
Date: 07/16/03 Day: Wednesday
Place: Frutigen to Spiez to Interlaken to LungernWeather: Clear and cool in the morning in Frutigen / overcast in Lungern
Travel / Lodging: Frutigen apartment and move to Lungern apartment. Took train from Frutigen to Spiez where we changed to a train to Interlaken. At Interlaken Ost (East) station, we changed to a narrow gauge train that took us over the Brünig Pass to Lungern.
Notes: It was sad to leave our friends in Frutigen. Peter and Esther Hauswirth, and their neighbor Betty, were outside our door to tell us goodbye. Peter drove us to the railroad station and waited to see us leaving on the train. We caught trains that got us to Lungern an hour earlier than our new landlord was supposed to meet us, so we had lunch at the Bahnhöfli Restaurant across the street from the train station (the bahnhof). We met some other Untourists there and talked to them for about half an hour.
Our new apartment is very near the railway station, and just across a narrow street from the railroad tracks. Fortunately, there are no trains at night after about 10:00 PM. The center of the town of Lungern is down the hill from our apartment somewhere. The map of Lungern that was supposed to be in the apartment was not there.
Trucks were busy spreading a liquid fertilizer (liquefied cow manure) on the hay meadows, which are everywhere, even in town, and the odor was unpleasant. Fortunately, the outdoor temperature was quite cool so we were able to keep our apartment windows closed. By morning, the air was fresh again. We had good views of the lake and the mountains from the apartment. The color of the lake is an unusual bright aqua, and is quite stunning with a waterfall on the opposite side of the lake.
Date: 07/17/03 Day: Thursday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to Brienz to LungernWeather: Light rain and quite cool in the morning / clearing and partly cloudy and warmer in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. We took the train to the Untours orientation in Meiringen, then the train to Brienz, and then the train back to Lungern.
Notes: We spent the morning at the Untours orientation at the Hotel Sauvage in Meiringen. We met Hal Tausig, the founder of Untours, who was there on a fact-finding trip. After lunch in Meiringen, we caught a train which we thought was going to Lungern, but it was headed the other direction. We got off at the next stop, Brienz, and did a little exploring before catching the next train to Lungern. Our mistake was an easy one to make. All the trains into the Meiringen station arrive from one direction and depart in the same direction. It became critical to know which of the two tracks is used by the trains going the direction you want to go. After leaving the station, the trains are switched to the tracks toward Brienz and Interlaken or toward Lungern and Luzern. We shopped for groceries in Meiringen, since reaching the grocery store in Lungern is so physically demanding.
Date: 07/18/03 Day: Friday
Place: LungernWeather: Sunny and cool all day
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment / no travel
Notes: We explored Lungern. I walked to and from “Main Street” three times and Carol hiked it twice. We bought some groceries and goodies from the bakery while we were in the center of town. In the evening, we hiked down to the lakefront for a concert by local musicians and enjoyed it immensely. Three young men played accordions (at least three different small ones), two saxophones, a clarinet, a guitar, and a bass violin. They played a variety of Swiss and international music, including some they had written. The leader had spent a high school year in Iowa and traveled the western US. The name of the band is Gagsur, which means cactus in Swiss German, and they had a plywood cutout of a saguaro cactus for their symbol, however they did not remember the name of the cactus that the leader had seen in Arizona.
Date: 07/19/03 Day: Saturday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to LungernWeather: Sunny and cool in the morning / sunny and hot in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. We traveled to Meiringen to use the e-mail.
Notes: Used a public e-mail service in Meiringen to check messages and to send a trip report. A young man in the shop was a great help. He was a regular at the shop who really understands the computer and spoke almost perfect English. We shopped for groceries again. We have to buy a small supply at a time because we have to carry them home on the train. Also, I cannot buy a supply of ice cream because of the time required for the trip.
Because the trains change direction at the Meiringen station, while the travelers sit on the train, the engine switches from one end of the train to the other. The first train into the station has to wait for the train traveling in the opposite direction to arrive on the neighboring track, away from the station, and then the first train leaves. Passengers on the second train to arrive can then cross over the near track and new passengers can cross and climb aboard.
Date: 07/20/03 Day: Sunday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to Luzern to LungernWeather: Hot all day / thunderstorms in the Lungern area after dark / Thunder really rolls through the valley where Lungern is located - very exciting.
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. Took train to Meiringen, then to Luzern, then back to Lungern.
Notes: We took the train to Meiringen looking for our Untours daily planner that I apparently mislaid yesterday. The e-mail shop was closed so we could not check for our lost booklet. We caught the train for Lungern, and then decided to go on to Luzern to check out the lake boat service convenience. There was no air conditioning in the first class cars on the train because of an electricity supply deficiency in the country. It was hot, hot, hot. After arrival back in Lungern, we sat in a breeze as much as possible until a cool breeze started blowing after dark. Switzerland has had record high temperatures and drought this summer.
Date: 07/21/03 Day: Monday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to Lungern to Interlaken to Brienz to Meiringen to LungernWeather: Cool and intermittent light rain in the morning / cool and showers midday / cool and light to moderate rain in the afternoon / some wind in the evening
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. We took the train to Meiringen, then returned to Lungern. We then took another train through Meiringen to Interlaken Ost. Took Brienzersee boat to Brienz, and then took the train back to Meiringen and a later train to Lungern.
Notes: The early morning was warm with the sun shining in Lungern. Before we reached Meiringen, it was raining lightly with a very cool breeze. We went to the Internet shop in Meiringen and started to answer e-mails. Then there was a power failure that ended e-mailing. I did find my lost diary! We were not dressed warmly enough for the changed temperature, so we caught the train back to Lungern. We changed to warmer clothing, had lunch and started again. We then took a later train from Lungern through Meiringen to Interlaken Ost, where, after a walk of about 200 yards, we caught the lake boat to cross the Brienzersee. Even though we had taken this trip a few years earlier, it was still scenic and interesting. At Brienz, we caught the train back to Meiringen where I completed my e-mailing. Then we caught a train to Lungern, where we ate at the Bahnhöfli Restaurant next to the station. On the train ride home, the train was mooned by a young man in the door of a barn hayloft, a little extra excitement.
Date: 07/22/03 Day: Tuesday
Place: Lungern to Luzern to Arth-Goldau to Bellinzona to Locarno (both in the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland) to Domodossola, Italy to Spiez to Interlaken Ost to LungernWeather: Clear and cool in the morning / hot during the day / cooler with thunderstorms in Lungern in the evening / lightning, thunder and rain intermittently all night
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. Rail trips from Lungern to Luzern to Arth-Goldau to Bellinzona to Locarno. Then we took the Centivalli Express from Locarno to Domodossola in Italy. Then we transferred to an intercity train to Spiez, where we transferred to the train to Interlaken Ost, where we changed to the train to Lungern.
Notes: We started this very long day of travel by catching a train at the Lungern bahnhof at 7:26 AM, which meant having a 6:00 AM wake-up alarm. We changed trains in Luzern, Arth-Goldau and Bellinzona to reach Locarno. We went to a leather shop near the train station that had been recommended by one of the other Untours travelers, to buy a leather backpack for Carol. They were out of stock until September, and no reason was given for not having stock in the summer. They implied that this was common practice.
We had lunch at a very nice restaurant near the Locarno bahnhof, and then we caught the Centivalli Express, which looks like a trolley, to Domodossola in Italy. (The Swiss Pass is valid for the trip.) Italian immigration officers walked through the cars at the border but hardly looked at passports. The train crew changed from Swiss to Italian. The train from Milano to Basel was 30 minutes late leaving Domodossola, and at Spiez, we just barely made our connection to Interlaken Ost. Then we caught the last train of the day toward Luzern. We arrived home at Lungern, very tired but satisfied with a great trip, just before the thunderstorms and rain started.
Date: 07/23/03 Day: Wednesday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to LungernWeather: Awoke to thunderstorm that continued the overnight pattern. / cleared during the day with temperature changing from cool to warm
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. Took train from Lungern to Meiringen and return.
Notes: We woke up to rain, thunder and lightning. We decided to not go to Ballenburg, which is an outdoor museum of Swiss buildings near Brienz. Instead, we caught a train from Lungern to Meiringen. We lunched at the Bahnhof Restaurant next to the Meiringen train station. Then we went to the e-mail “café” to check e-mails received and to send some individual e-mails. Afterwards, we shopped at the COOP grocery store. After shopping, we caught an afternoon train back to Lungern and took it easy the remainder of the afternoon. The temperature was still warm, but the rain helped to perk up the greenery. The waterfall across the lake was pouring this morning, but it has returned to normal during the day. We are planning to take the William Tell Express from Luzern tomorrow.
Date: 07/24/03 Day: Thursday
Place: Lungern to Luzern to William Tell Express boat and train to Göschenen to Luzern to LungernWeather: Partly cloudy in Lungern in the morning / cloudy and rain on boat and trains / cloudy and no rain in Lungern on our return / cold in late morning, afternoon and evening
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. We took the train from Lungern to Luzern. There, we changed to the William Tell Express side-wheel steamer on the Vierwalderstättersee and then the William Tell Express train from Flüelen to Göschenen. We returned by fast train to Luzern, where we caught another train to Lungern.
Notes: We left Lungern on the train to Luzern under partly cloudy skies and warm temperature. Soon after boarding the William Tell Express side-wheel steamer at the dock just outside the Luzern railroad station, it started to rain. We had lunch in the ship’s dining room seated next to windows on the starboard side, and then we stayed at the table for the remainder of the voyage.
We were surprised when we disembarked in Flüelen that the temperature was much lower with a moderate wind blowing. We walked perhaps a hundred yards to the train track. The William Tell Express train was a little late arriving at the Flüelen railroad station, and the wait was chilly. The ride on this special train was very smooth and the furnishings were new and attractive. We left the William Tell Express train at Göschenen and took regular trains back to Arth-Goldau and on to Luzern. It rained all the time on the return trip. At the Luzern station, we changed to the train to Lungern where it was partly cloudy but much cooler than when we left. Fortunately, I had my parka in my backpack, and I was wearing a long sleeve shirt. Carol wore the parka because she had come dressed for the morning temperature in Lungern. The trains and boat were all covered by the Swiss Pass, so no additional payment, except for the lunch, was necessary.
Date: 07/25/03 Day: Friday
Place: Lungern to Brienz to Brienzer Rothorn Bahn to Brienz to Lungern (Don).Weather: Bright sunshine with a few high clouds all day
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. I traveled by train to Meiringen and on to Brienz. I changed to the Rothornbahn (Rothorn mountain train) to travel to the Rothorn Kulm (peak). Then I returned to Brienz and back to Meiringen and on to Lungern. Carol spent the day in the apartment.
Notes: This was a red-letter day for me. I had taped a program off the Travel Channel about 10 to 15 years ago, which included the Rothornbahn trip. It was just as scenic as I expected. The air temperature was lower at the Kulm, but warm in the sunshine out of the breeze. The engine for the trip up was a coal-fired steam engine and for the trip down, an oil-fired steam engine. Some of the engines are diesel powered. The views from the top, and even on the trips up and down are truly spectacular. The Swiss Pass does not cover this trip, but the pass does provide a discount. After shopping the COOP grocery store in Brienz, I returned to Meiringen and on to Lungern by train. It was a wonderful day that I had anticipated for years. I noticed that there are military bunkers in a mountainside between Brienz and Meiringen. They appear to be old, perhaps left over from defensive plans during World War II. A firing range with targets is set up against the side of the mountain, and between the firing points and the targets is a hiking trail!
Date: 07/26/03 Day: Saturday
Place: Lungern Weather: Mostly sunny and cool in the morning / warmer, but still not hot in the afternoonTravel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. We stayed all day in Lungern.
Notes: We decided to stay in Lungern and take in the local fishing festival. We walked to the lakeshore and around to the Obsee area, where we thought the festival was. There we discovered that the festivities were on the lakeshore at the other end of Lungern. We trudged (and I use the word deliberately) along the lakeshore until we were completely worn out, and then we saw the tents a little farther ahead. We arrived in time to see some of the morning’s catch being weighed. One little boy had only one fish, and it was about three inches long. It was weighed and duly recorded, just like all of the larger fish. At the food tent, we ate fried fish that was supposed to have been caught in the lake. After lunch, we shopped at the bakery and the Primo (a small grocery store). The climb up the hill to our apartment was completed with many stops. For the remainder of the afternoon, we rested.
Date: 07/27/03 Day: Sunday
Place: Lungern Weather: Sunny and warm in the morning and early afternoon / in late afternoon, heavy rain showers with thunder and lightningTravel / Lodging: Lungern apartment.
Notes: We chose this to be a lazy day. We slept late, and then started organizing for packing and the last trip day.
Today’s rain is very welcome here. Switzerland has been in the throes of a severe drought, and the summer temperatures have been above average. The thunder really rolls through the valley. It reverberates off the mountains and it is almost possible to feel the air vibrate. The rain lowered the air temperature.
Date: 07/28/03 Day: Monday
Place: Lungern to Luzern to Lungern. Later, Lungern to Sacseln and return to attend the Untours farewell dinner and entertainmentWeather: Low clouds and cool in the morning / partly cloudy for the rest of the day, continued cool
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. Traveled by rail to Luzern and returned to Lungern. In the evening, we traveled by rail to Sacseln and return to attend the Untours farewell dinner and entertainment.
Notes: Took our two large suitcases to the Lungern rail station for shipment to Kloten, where our hotel is located for the last night in Switzerland. Then we caught the train to Luzern. In Luzern, we walked out of the railroad station and across two streets to the Chapel Bridge, which had burned nearly completely in 1993. It was rebuilt with most of the original construction features in a year’s time. We walked the bridge in both directions, noting construction details and the decorations.
We had lunch at the Mexican restaurant, Cucaracha, in Luzern! The food was called Tex-Mex, and it was similar, but not the same as real Tex-Mex. It was a novel thing for us to do. The waitress was surprised to know that Cucaracha means cockroach.
For dinner, we attended the Untours farewell dinner in Sacseln. A four-piece band played local music and one man sang yodeling songs and blew the alphorn. Another of the musicians, the husband of our local Untours contact is a member of the Lungern yodeling club. It was a fun evening.
Date: 07/29/03 Day: Tuesday
Place: Lungern to Meiringen to Lungern to Luzern to Zürich to KlotenWeather: Bright sunshine with some cumulus clouds in the afternoon / cool in the morning / warm in the afternoon
Travel / Lodging: Lungern apartment. Traveled from Lungern to Meiringen by rail, then returned to Lungern. Took a later train to Luzern and continued by rail to Zürich and Kloten (near the Zürich airport).
Notes: We decided to make a quick trip to Meiringen to check and send e-mails and to buy presents. I walked down to “Main Street” in Lungern in the morning to buy a CD of the Lungern yodeling club from the leader, who is the town barber.
Because of a train delay, the conductor of a train at the Meiringen train station told us it was going to Interlaken, when in fact it was our train to Lungern. We had to wait another hour for a train. We looked in vain for the “mooner” in the hayloft. Our train from Lungern to Luzern was delayed by another train on the same track traveling in the opposite direction. This made a very close connection in Luzern. When I asked the conductor to point out the first class cars of the train we were planning to board, he told me that the train was leaving in 30 seconds, and we should get on where we were. It was a new train with air-conditioned second class cars. The connection at the Zürich main train station was no problem, and we caught a local commuter train to Kloten. The luggage we had shipped the day before was at the Kloten station, and we checked into the Hotel Allegra, which is reached from the pedestrian underpass under the railroad tracks, just across from the Kloten railway station.
Date: 07/30/03 Day: Wednesday
Place: Kloten to Zürich airport to Newark, NJ airport to Knoxville, TN airport to homeWeather: Mostly clear at Zürich airport and across the Atlantic except for a short passage through a front with high clouds / low cumulus clouds at Newark, NJ airport / tall cumulus clouds around the Knoxville, TN airport
Travel / Lodging: Allegra Hotel in Kloten. Airline flights from the Zürich airport to the Newark, NJ airport and on to the Knoxville, TN airport. Joye Adams met us at the Knoxville, TN airport and drove us home.
Notes: The Allegra Hotel was a very pleasant place to stay. They even had a small (tabletop) ice machine in the elevator lobby on our floor! We saw very little ice for drinks in Switzerland, except in our apartments. After a short delay sitting on the airplane because of “traffic” we took off. The flight across the Atlantic was pretty smooth with only a couple of short periods with the seat belt sign on. There were low cumulus clouds at the Newark, NJ airport, but we landed on time. The transfer through customs and from one Continental gate to another was a zoo. For one thing, it was necessary to leave the secure arrival area and then enter again to reach the gate for the continuing flight. The flight to the Knoxville, TN airport was smooth except for the landing approach through tall cumulus clouds.
It was a wonderful sight to see Joye Adams waiting for us. We were in bed at home about 22 hours after awaking in Switzerland. It was great to be back in our own bed.