Swiss Ticino Untour, Spring of 2001
by Douglas & Judith Campbell, Union, KY
We just returned from Ticino in mid June this year and just loved it! Probably one of the most varied areas we've seen, as you have charming villages, larger cities, lakes, and mountains in the background. It's not the chalet side of Switz...instead the old buildings are called "rusticos"...made from stone without mortar...and grey. Quite different.
Elisabetta was great as a rep...and we would encourage you to join the Idyll excursions. We thoroughly enjoyed the final spaghetti dinner and bocci lesson at a nearby restaurant. Just remember you can pick and choose as you go. Would suggest you check out the supermarkets for ready-made food, if cost is an issue, as Switz. is highest in Europe. Lower priced restaurants are adequate but not special, and we found some wonderful "prepared" foods in Manor supermarkets...Coop is smaller and with fewer offerings like this. Most of us cooked in more here. Also found if you ask the locals they can steer you to local trattorias with good food and prices to match.
Walk the promenade along the Locarno waterfront to Minusio if you enjoy walking. Also, we did 2 hikes in the Maggia Valley and in the Verzasca Valley...you take the bus, hop off where you wish and pick up trails along the rivers, getting another bus back where you wish. (If you don't hike, take the bus and see the countryside and perhaps get off in one of the towns for lunch.) Idyll has a great suggestion book for some specialized hikes. You can be as strenuous as you like. If walking is a problem, you can ride lake boats, hop a train, or take local buses...so many options. We stayed in Ascona, and you can't miss visiting this town...only 10 minutes from Locarno by bus, and it's on our list of favorites! Pedestrian mall with 5 minute walk to lakefront and lots of restaurants (several of us enjoyed Osteria Nostrano on waterfront) with outside tables facing the lake. Little streets with many tiny but exclusive shops. Evenings some places have musical entertainment, and performers work the waterfront...shops are extremely expensive...it's a European tourist center...mostly German, so practice both Italian and German for this one! Very little English spoken, and you won't find an American presence...which we enjoyed.
Bellinzona has great castles and a large shopping area in town. Take train to Lugano where your Swiss pass works on lake boats..(you must pay extra on Lake Maggiore as it's 80% Italian owned) Recommend boat to Gandria from Lugano and lunch at the waterfront balcony of Locanda Gandriese.restaurant..up the steps to left, through the arcade. Also, recommend a day trip to Morcote further down the lake...lots of restaurants here and a good climb to church above. The Centovalli Rail line to Domodossola is a lovely trip...Domodossola is nothing special, according to others who ended up there. We used it to travel to Sion to visit friends, and you certainly could do an overnight somewhere this way. Others used a rainy day to visit Milan with much success. Markets always fun...huge market in Lugano worthwhile visiting. You will have too many suggestions.
In short, you have lots of options based on your physical situation, and after the Idyll team teaches you how to read your timetables, you should have 2 weeks with plenty to do.