Umbria Untour, Summer of 2004
by William & Ann Logan, Shelbyville, KY
Our flight was on Air France from Louisville to Cincinnati to Paris and finally to Rome. Our last experience with Air France and Charles de Gaulle was not pleasant, and this was no exception. The airport is not traveler friendly, and you must have sufficient time for connections or they will certainly make no effort to see that you make your flight. This time we had more than enough time and got to Rome at 11:30 a m. All 5 of the other Idyllers were also there but meeting time was 12:30, and we waited till Jo-Anne arrived. The bus ride to Spoleto was pleasant and Jo-Anne gave us some information about the plans for orientation, etc. It was about a 2 1/2 hour ride to Spoleto where we picked up our cars. We followed Jo-Anne to our apartment, about 20 minutes from Spoleto.
Our apartment, La Ginestra, on the farm Casale Grande, was lovely - spacious, clean and well appointed. The setting was beautiful and peaceful. We had a balcony overlooking the farm with the mountains in the background. There, we had our coffee in the morning and wine late in the afternoon. What a life! There is a large swimming pool with plenty of lounges, chairs and umbrellas as well as a lawn with a bocce ball court and play equipment for children. The welcome food supply that Elenora left for us was the most generous we have had, and we enjoyed it for many meals.Elenora was in her office every morning and afternoon and was helpful to us several times. There is a shop at the farm where you can purchase wine, olive oil and honey and we thought the wine and olive oil were excellent. Didn't happen to try the honey.
Orientation was held the following day at a restored castle which serves as a guest house and restaurant now. We enjoyed the wonderful view from the covered terrace during Orientation. We had the only day-time rain of our trip while listening to Jo-Ann. It swept across the valley as we watched, dampened things where we were, and soon passed on. Lunch was also at the castle.
We enjoyed our Idyll event at the farm of Ettore del Rio, with our introduction to the old farm equipment. And what a marvelous meal al fresco. It was a pleasure to meet Jo Anne's daughter, Sophie. We all enjoyed the evening.
During our 2 week stay we visited hill towns in the vicinity most every day, enjoying our big meal of the day in that town, and returning to enjoy the pool at Casale Grande in the late afternoon. We fixed a light meal at night in the apartment, because we don't relish driving after dark in unfamiliar territory. The towns we explored were, Trevi, Spello, Spoleto, Todi, Orvieto, Assisi, Bevagna and Montefalco; one day we drove to the Cascata delle Marmore.
We did make a trip to Ancona because we were going to ferry to Croatia after our Untour was finished and we lucked up with one of our best meals of the trip. The restaurant was Le Copertelle in Serra San Quirico, off the road from Spoleto to Ancona. It is a family run restaurant and was very good. Other places that we particularly enjoyed included the one closest to our apt., Caminetta, which was on the Via Flaminia just a few meters from our road to Casale Grande. The food was good, house wine was fine, and the price fit our budget. It was very popular. Farther along the Via Flaminia is the Taverna El Pescatore in a lovely setting beside a babbling brook where we had excellent grilled trout. However it was our most expensive meal of the trip---. only one main course, dessert and 1/2 liter house wine was about $80 USD!
If you are in Orvieto and want a meal, try the Osteria del Grotto. We just wanted something light, so asked for an omelet
with Orvieto Classico - very good. The restaurant was filled with locals and families.. It's on a side street just off the main shopping street with a sign pointing back to it.
Also, if you visit Orvieto, the Underground Orvieto tour (tickets at the Information in the square in front of the cathedral) is very interesting .We highly recommend it. Orvieto was one of our favorite towns. Be advised that is was difficult for us to find the free parking at the train station. Bill left more detailed directions in the Idyll book at the apartment, as we had to ask the bored man at the funicular. The Duomo at Orvieto is beautiful. We were there by 10:00, and the crowds had not yet arrived.
When we went to Assisi, we arrived at 8:00 A.M., thanks to a tip from a fellow Idyller, thereby beating the crowds. We parked at the bottom of the town in a free parking lot.
All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed our Untour to Umbria. If you have questions, feel free to e-mail us at wlogan65@bellsouth.net.