I was so excited to return to Tuscany. It had been two years since my last visit and this time I was staying on an UnTours farm that I’d never had the opportunity to call home. I started the day early, getting a taxi out to the Rome airport to pick up my car. That in and of itself was fun. It all went smoothly, don’t get me wrong, but the cars were parked so tightly at the Avis garage at the airport that I had to climb in from the passenger’s side, shimmy over the center console and then get settled in the driver’s seat in order to back out and get going. Hahaha! At least I’m pretty limber.
The ride to Tuscany from Rome is quite nice. We recommend using the coastal highway from the airport and then eventually turn inland around Grosseto. It took me about three hours door to door, with a pit stop for an espresso on the way. I was so happy to finally get to Tuscany, which is sort of a home away from home for me. I know our hometowns quite well and even some of the locals recognize me and say hello when we bump into each other on the street and at the grocery store.
Serenella, one of the owners of the Orfeo apartment on the Torrenieri property where I was staying, was there to greet me with open arms. She was even prepping lunch for me when I got there! It was so good to see her. She showed me to the apartment, which I’d already seen numerous times. But this time it was different, it was my home and I was so excited to stay there.
I had a friend visiting from Bologna during my stay at the Orfeo. So, once I dropped my bag in the apartment I shot down to Buonconvento where I was meeting him. We then drove right back up to the farm and enjoyed a simple and delicious lunch with Serenella. It was like being with family. We three sat at the table for hours talking about UnTours, the Italian economy and politics, life in the US and the like. It was thoroughly enjoyable. What was most enjoyable for me was to watch friends from different times/parts of my life meet, get to know one another and enjoy each other’s company.
We spent the afternoon visiting San Quirico d’Orcia, a lovely hamlet about 20 minutes drive from the farmhouse. Then, dinner in Buonconvento at Il Via di Mezzo. What a way to start my short, but sweet visit to Tuscany. As the next day was Sunday, I was pretty much free. We visited the abbey at Monte Oliveto where we normally hold the on-site event and then returned to Buonconvento where we caught up with one of our other apartment owners, Elisabetta. After lunch my friend returned to Bologna and I to the farmhouse. It was a whirlwind 24 hours, but it was great to catch up. Now the real work began.
Monday through Wednesday, I spent time with our Tuscany staff person Harriet, property owners and suppliers. Lots of work, but lots of fun too. Monday, Harriet and I went on an adventure across Tuscany to look at some new, larger apartments for a special project I’m working on. It was a lot of driving, but it gave us time to chat and catch up with business and personal stuff. As I said, I hadn’t been to Tuscany in two years, and though we communicate throughout the year by phone, fax and email, it’s just not the same as being together gabbing, bouncing ideas off of one another all while going on little adventures.
We made it back to Buonconvento just in time to grab a bite and head over to join one of our Tuscany 101 events, the Brunello Wine Tasting hosted by Anna. What a lovely event! I got to meet a whole bunch of our guests, walk through the vineyard, and tour the cantina where Anna talked about the fermentation processes. Then, in her lovely common room, we had a nice taste of Brunello and some savory snacks to go along. The conversation was interesting and the wine was flowing. What a way to end the day.
Tuesday was chock a block with appointments and Wednesday was an arrival day, so I spent some of it with owners and then up at Avis in Siena to meet the newcomers. That evening, Harriet and I dined at the Torrenieri property with both Serenella and her sister and co-owner, Donella. They practically had us in tears. They raised their glasses and proposed a toast to both Harriet and me, friends and coworkers for many years, yet finally, for the first time, sitting all together at the table to break bread. They just raved about how much that meant to them and how special that evening was.
It was all so heartfelt and genuine, and true. It was a special evening.
And, staying at the Torrenieri farm is a special experience. I had always known it, but having experienced it now I can honestly and openly rave about my stay there. It’s the little things. The apartments are well appointed and so well cared for. They feel really homey. And Serenella and Donella make you feel so at home as well. There is definitely a language barrier; they speak little or no English. But, they communicate with their eyes and their hands and the warmth they exude. The farm is an oasis, sitting on top of a hill with 360° views. It is the Tuscan countryside at its best.
I would rise early each day, just before dawn, and just walk on the property, camera in hand, taking photographs as the fog rolled across the hills and as the sun rose up beyond the fields of wheat and wine. Spectacular, almost spiritual. What a blessing to stay in such a beautiful spot and with such lovely hosts. It makes the experience that much more special and real.
But alas, my time in the tranquil countryside at the idyllic hilltop farmhouse had to come to an end.
Thursday morning, I made a last visit to Avis to discuss some business and then made my way to the city of the Renaissance where Leonardo and Michelangelo painted and sculpted, where Brunelleschi dreamed and realized his Dome and where Dante pined for his beloved Beatrice. Benvenuti a Firenze. Welcome to Florence.
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