October 29, 2015 by Andrea Szyper
More than a place to drink, the pub is a civic institution in Ireland, a sort of communal clubhouse where neighbors and families meet to mark milestones, connect, or just pass the time. Stop in for a cup of tea, a chat, a meal, or a pint. All are welcome. Here are a few pointers to help you fit in and enjoy the experience.
Be specific when you order. As Kenmare-based author VJ Fadely says, “If you ask for a Guinness, you’ll get a pint. If you order a ‘pint’ you’ll likely get a Guinness. If you want a half-pint of Guinness or any other beer, order a ‘glass.'” Remember, a half pint is a good idea if you are driving. And no one will think twice if you order something without alcohol.
If you want to tip the bartender, you are best to hand the money to him or her directly rather than leaving it on the bar. Tipping is voluntary in Ireland, as bartenders and servers are paid properly. Still, it is good form to offer a little something at the end of your visit if service was good.
If you’ve been sitting at a table and you are ready to leave, go to the bar to pay. You’ll tell them what you had, and they will ring it up for you while you stand there. Bring your wallet up with you and pay on the spot. Easy peasy.
If you are lucky enough to visit a pub during a trad session (when musicians are playing live traditional music), be sure to be attentive to the musicians and clap. If you are taking a table close to the music, it is good to keep ordering.
Pubs in Ireland are family friendly, so it is not uncommon to find families here for a meal and some music. Regulars are accustomed to seeing little ones up and about as late as 9pm. Be mindful and welcoming. And if you are traveling with kids or grandkids, don’t be shy!
Don’t order a Black and Tan! You know that two-toned drink, with Guinness floating on top of Bass ale? The beers don’t mix. Take it as a metaphor for Ireland and England and think about history. Black and Tans was the nickname the Irish gave to the English special forces who used brutal tactics to suppress the Irish independence movement in the early 1920s, massacring civilians and burning villages. (Their uniforms were black and tan.) If you must, order a “half and half,” which uses Harp for its bottom stripe.
If you are lucky enough to drink with locals and they buy you a round, you must reciprocate. Though they may go easy on you as a tourist, it is the Irish way. Say thank you, but be sure to return the favor. And if you’re embedded for the evening, be sure to start with something you like, as you’ll be ordered more of the same!
Remember, no matter how proud you might be of your Irish heritage and how in touch you are with your ancestry, Irish history, or the culture, you are not Irish. Be sure to keep that in mind, even after a couple pints. But as I say in my travels, if you can’t be them, join them. Cheers!
UnTours offers apartments in the heart of Kenmare, a charming town on the edge of the Ring of Kerry. Kenmare is full of lively and friendly pubs with good food and company. Many Ireland Untour apartments are within walking distance of Kenmare’s pub-filled town center.
