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Eurozine February 2011

A week in Provence  

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Hi ,
  
I'll never forget the first time I traveled on my own through Southern France. It was the summer of 1997 right before I was to begin my studies in Montpellier, France. At the time, the coast seemed to beckon me. I craved being close to the water, feeling the ocean breeze on my face. But after just a few days of roaming the coast the allure wore off. The Riviera was crowded with bus loads of tourists around every corner and every restaurant advertising a different menu clearly aimed at foreigners. 

That is when I discovered Provence. It was the desire to see something more authentic, to taste real southern French food and an interest in the Roman ruins that pushed me towards the towns of Avignon, Nimes, Vaison la Romaine. A Year in Provence, that famed dream book that drove hoards of people to explore the area, had already been published, and yet the region held an allure that was hard to spoil. I had no idea at the time that I would return many years later for Untours.

When I did return what struck me the most was how Untours had managed to find a fairly unexplored area of Provence and make it the home-base. It was with Untours that I visited the small towns of St. Didier, Gordes and Venasque for the first time. The smell of lavender, the locally bought honey and olive oil, the realization that rosé can actually be a top notch wine (!), and most of all the glorious light of Provence...certainly I won't be the first to say that Provence stole my heart. 

Keep exploring,

Lotta Rao
Eurozine Editor

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AFirstTimeUntouristinProvenceA First Time Untourist in Provence by Andreas Paminger


GordesLast September I had the opportunity to go on my very first Untour. I started with a week in the Swiss Heartland, but then spent my second week in the destination I was really looking forward to, Provence. This was a new destination for me, and new places always excite me!

 

My fiancé Krista and I spent a fantastic week traveling around Provence, meeting fellow Untourists, spending time with our Untours staff Régine, Max, and their son Charlie, and found Provence to be one of those places where one is immediately at ease. It's hard for me to focus on one or two things we enjoyed in Provence, so here is my list of five things that made this trip unforgettable:

  1. Our very own stone farmhouse: Max told us we were in for a treat when he was taking us to the Gresse apartment on arrival day. Driving down country roads, through the beautifully unspoiled village of St. Didier, and finally up a hill to the edge of the forest of Venasque, we were not disappointed. An old restored farmhouse greeted us with views from our private patio of the open valley leading up to Mt. Ventoux. We could barely believe this was going to be our home for the next week!
  2.  Scenic diversity: What makes Provence such an interesting place to explore is that each village you get to is so very different from the last. On one of our first days in Provence we drove the Luberon loop, a scenic drive that took us through some of the most beautiful villages in the region. From medieval Gordes, to the ochre sandstone village of Roussilon, to the hillside castle ruins in Oppède-le-Vieux; each village greeted us with something new.
  3. Food and wine: I had read a lot about the markets of Provence and was looking forward toIsle sur la Sorgue Market doing our shopping there each day so we could cook our very own French meals to enjoy on our patio. The selection was endless, especially during the Sunday market in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Vegetables picked that morning, wines from Gigondas and Séguret, lavender honey, freshly baked bread, olive oil ... everything one would need to satisfy any culinary urge.
  4. City contrasts: We spent the last day of our trip in Aix-en-Provence, the cultural and academic capital of the region. Sitting at one of the countless coffee shops one can take in a show of French fashion and style. Who needs Paris! Aix is every bit as glamorous as the French capital, and locals young and old are rushing though the narrow streets to their next class or appointment. This was a nice counterpoint to the serenity of the Provençal countryside.
  5.  The people: Everyone we met was absolutely delightful: Régine and Max made sure we were comfortable and provided ample suggestions of what to see and do; fellow Untourists shared stories of their travels and pointed out restaurants they swear captured the essence of Provençal cuisine; and the locals were warm and open, helping us pick out the best ingredients for the meal we wanted to cook that evening, or pointing us in the right direction when we took a wrong turn and stumbled on a beautiful little village we would otherwise never have seen.

We had a full week that included both sightseeing and relaxation, but there is so much more to see and do. There are few places out there that we say we must go back to, but we're already thinking about when we can go back to Provence.

 

PaintingPaint in Europe this summer! 

Love to paint when traveling? Join celebrated painter Janice Russell Beck in Provence, Umbria or the Amalfi coast and spend your time painting in quaint villages, eating at local cafes and exploring the beautiful regional nature, all while receiving expert tutelage from Janice. The dates for each trip are as follows:

  • Amalfi art trip (May 4 through May 18, 2011)
  • Umbria art trip (May 18 through June 1, 2011)
  • Provence art trip (June 1 through June 15, 2011)
For more information on Janice and how to sign up click here.

 

MLK Jr VolunteeringFor the second year in a row, the Untours staff spent Martin Luther King, Jr. Service Day working for an Untours Foundation loan recipient. Last year, we helped clean an old warehouse that houses a canning company, which employs and trains a dozen people. This year, we worked at our local, struggling food co-op that keeps retailers in our town of Media supplied with Fair Trade Certified products. Here are some of the worker bees just before calling it a day: (from left to right) Andreas Paminger (Untours Marketing Director), Anna Taussig-Lux (daughter of Untours General Manager, Brian), Kellen Randall (an Untours friend), Hugh Taussig-Lux (Brian's son), Cathrin Baumbach (Team Leader for the Central European Untours), and Sue Baker (Member of the Central Europe and Italian Teams).

  

ThePWordWhat We Are Reading

The P. WordThe P. Word: Provence Traps and Initiates the Unwary by Untourist Renee Rosch Lewis

Andy and Margaret Becker are married baby boomers enjoying their retirement when Margaret discovers a book that refuels her longtime dream of traveling to Provence. Now all she has to do is convince a reluctant Andy to embark on a journey with her that will forever change their lives and their marriage.

Despite the fact that Andy has discussed traveling to Provence for decades, he soon finds himself trapped in Margaret's web of adventure. After he agrees to rent a house in Provence where he and Margaret can walk to the market, have lunch in a café, and enjoy baguettes accompanied by unpasteurized cheese and lavender honey, Andy must adjust to sleeping in a tiny bed, changing lanes in traffic circles, and eating more bad carbohydrates than he ever has in his life. But Andy makes the best of his adventure, fully embedding himself in the French culture and even falling in love with the scraggly dog that lives on the property surrounding their wee house.

 

After a series of humorous events, Andy is unknowingly initiated into a freer way of life as he experiences the people, the unhurried atmosphere of French eating and drinking, and the fascinating history of Provence.

 
Bruneau 
 
Gresse
 

The Bruneau cottage comprises two separate units, one being the main house with a large living space that includes the kitchen and living room, 2 bedrooms, and 1 bathroom; however, an adjacent annex which houses an additional bedroom and bathroom can be added to make a 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom complex, which makes this house ideal for a family or up to three couples.

 

The Gamet 2 vacation rental is located about two miles outside the charming Provençal village of St. Didier, right on the edge of the Venasque woods. The perched village of Venasque which happens to be among the most beautiful villages in France is also close by. 

 


The Gresse is a duplex vacation rental and part of a restored stone farmhouse. It is located outside the village of St. Didier and is a wonderful destination for walkers. Though not as large as Isle-sur-Sorgue or Pernes-les-Fontaines, St. Didier includes all the amenities - bakers, bank, markets and restaurants.  
 

 

 
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