Swiss Heartland Untour, Summer of 2003
by Dick & Joan Stewart, Boston, MA
Day 1; Wednesday, August 27, 2003:
Idyll staffers, Margrit and Susi, greeted us as we emerged from Customs following our Boston-Zurich flight. Margrit escorted us to the Untour meeting point in the train-station area of the airport. As we were among the first Untourists to arrive, we had ample time to acquire Swiss francs, validate our train pass and explore shops in the immediate area. Thanks to beautiful mountain and lake scenery along the way and to enjoyable conversation with our seatmates, Untour alums Charmaine and Tom Hall from Arizona, the one-hour train rides from Zurich to Luzern and from Luzern to Brunig-Hasliberg passed quickly. Marianne, another member of the Idyll staff, met us at the Brunig-Hasliberg train station then escorted us to the waiting postal bus. During the twenty-five minute ride to Reuti, our hometown for the next two weeks, Marianne provided a village-by-village orientation to the Hasliberg Region. Another Margrit, our landlady, greeted us at the bus station then drove us to our apartment. Chalet Diana exceeded expectations. Margrit had already opened the doors leading from the living/dining area to the balcony, an implied invitation to walk out for a peek at the stunning mountain panorama, a scene impossible to absorb without major head turning both left and right. In less than a minute we realized that in Reuti and Chalet Diana we had made two perfect choices.We selected Reuti because we had never stayed in this part of Switzerland and because Reuti, which sits on a mountain ridge named Hasliberg, has a lift station with seven-minute tram service down to Meiringen as well as gondola service to higher elevations. After becoming settled, we took the tram down to Meiringen and had a bite to eat before visiting the Coop supermarket to begin building our food inventory.
Day 2; Thursday, August 28, 2003:
The subtitle for this trip log might well be: What's So Great About the Heartland? On the one hand, our many prior visits to Switzerland, including two Untours, have not included the Heartland, defined roughly as the towns and environs along the train line between Luzern and Meiringen. Instead, we've focused on Zermatt and the Bernese Oberland, especially its Jungfrau Region south of Interlaken. After all, Zermatt and the Jungfrau Region are heavily touristed and feature many of Switzerland's highest mountains. Would not visits to less well-known mountain regions prove unfulfilling? On the other hand, through IdyllChat, Idyll's email discussion group on European travel, we've learned that many Untourists return repeatedly to the Heartland. Certainly these Heartland repeaters have at one time or another visited Zermatt and the Oberland. Why do they keep returning to the Heartland? We hoped to find out.First item on today's agenda was Idyll's Orientation in Meiringen, which we reached via a bus ride to the Brunig-Hasliberg train station followed by a train ride to Meiringen. On the bus we met Idyll alums Brian and Janet Cooley from California with whom we reviewed past European travels. Following Orientation, we walked to the Meiringen train station, intending to travel to an as yet unnamed destination for our first hike. A train pulled out from the station just as we arrived. Fortunately, the train was going to Interlaken, the direction opposite the one we wanted. We sat to await the train going to Luzern and the Heartland, due to arrive in five minutes. Or so we thought. Gulp! The train to Luzern had arrived at the station before we did and was waiting at Track 2, something we learned the hard way as it pulled out without us. Only then were we reminded that Meiringen has a dead-end train station. Usually a train arrives and departs in the same direction. Not in Meiringen. Shame on us. Rather than wait an hour for the next train, Joan suggested we revisit the Coop for additional foodstuffs and return to the apartment.
What next? We seem laid back on this trip. Maybe we're still recovering from the time change and sleepless flight. Perhaps our relaxed state is due to complete satisfaction with Reuti and our accommodations. Anyway, we decided to spend the afternoon doing the Panoramic Hike (Panoramaweg), a hike that parallels the Hasliberg bus route, but at a higher elevation. Unable to find the official starting point for the hike, Dick suggested we begin walking along the bus route until a trail sign appeared. With no sidewalks, Joan expressed repeatedly her dissatisfaction with Dick's approach. It was not until we reached Goldern, the next village, that a sign nailed to the side of a barn put us on course. The trail rose steeply to the Hasliberg village of Wasserwendi, where had our main meal of the day. By avocation Joan is a storyteller. At home she maintains a garden containing fairies, gnomes and other magical creatures. Imagine Joan's delight upon seeing the array of large gnomes in front of Restaurant Wasserwendi. Adding to her excitement were smaller gnomes for sale in front of the restaurant. Joan wasted no time buying a 170-year-old gnome named Derek, the name of our grandson. After dinner - during which an avalanche boom rattled the windows - darkening clouds caused us to deviate from the Panoramic Hike. We chose a wide trail leading down to Hohfluh, another village on the Hasliberg. This trail not only featured alpine scenery suitable for a Heidi picture book, it enabled us to view from a higher elevation the mountain panorama we see from our balcony. Timing was perfect. We arrived at Hohfluh coincident with the bus to Reuti.
Day 3; Friday, August 29, 2003:
The day began with a surprise, or should we say a shock. The flight to Zurich and yesterday's starter hike must have depleted our energy reserves more than we realized. Dick awoke and looked at the alarm clock, which read ten-of-six. Or did it? Hard to tell in the shade darkened bedroom. Closer inspection revealed that ten-of-six was actually ten-thirty! Oh well, the late start would still allow sufficient time to go up into the mountains above Hasliberg, something we were eager to do. Alas, our first visit to high-mountain destinations such as Magisalp and Planplatten, easily accessible from the Reuti lift station, would have to wait as clouds blanketed the mountain peaks. What to do? A major reason for choosing Reuti was a desire to explore the Heartland. Visiting a Heartland village or two seemed like the perfect way to spend a cloudy day. After the bus ride from Reuti to Brunig-Hasliberg, we boarded the train headed for Luzern. A half hour later as the train reached Giswil, an announcement requested all to leave the train and board waiting busses. There was a problem of some sort between Giswil and Sachseln, the next town. As the bus weaved through the pretty town of Sachseln, we decided not to continue on by train, opting instead to hike back to Giswil along the shore of Lake Sarnen. To call what we did a hike is giving us too much credit. This was an eighty-minute stroll. Nonetheless, the walk was pleasurable. To the right were ever-changing views of Lake Sarnen complete with its stunning mountain backdrop. To the left were neighborhoods in which each chalet had a flourishing flower/vegetable garden and window boxes overflowing with hanging geraniums. At Giswil we boarded a train for Meiringen, arriving at 3 p.m. With little time remaining for a major event, we hopped on the next train for a thirty-five minute ride to Interlaken where we had our main meal and poked around before heading back to Reuti.Day 4; Saturday, August 30, 2003:
In the middle of the night Dick opened his eyes and wondered if he were blind. There was no perception difference whether his eyes were open or closed. He had to turn on the light to be certain he could see. Remote Reuti has no outdoor lighting. To boot, last night was devoid of both starlight and moonlight. These factors, along with the opaque apartment drapes, then drawn, gave new meaning to pitch black. Joan verified the eerie experience.Chalet Diana has satellite TV. During breakfast we watch live-cam weather reports from various parts of Switzerland. The forecast was good for morning, less good for afternoon. This morning we would hike. Every day we see countless advertisements and brochures featuring Muggestutz, a 300-year-old gnome. His Dwarf-Trail (Zwergenweg), is located in the mountains above Reuti. We took the gondola from Reuti up to Magisalp where we were greeted by a cowbell serenade. More cows than we had ever seen at one time dotted the Magisalp landscape. Including stops along the way, the Dwarf Trail descends from Magisalp for about two hours, winding across alpine meadows and through pine forests down to Bidmi, the lift station below Magisalp. About every ten minutes there is an exhibit depicting some aspect of gnome life. Joan was in her glory during this magical hike.
From Bidmi we took the gondola down to Reuti. We needed an afternoon activity as well as our main meal of the day so we took the bus to Brunig-Hasliberg then the train to Meiringen. The main meal was a scrumptious fish dinner taken at Hotel Rebstock. Rain poured during dinner but stopped as we left. Over dinner we decided to round out the day with a visit to nearby Reichenbach Falls. It was at these falls that Sherlock Holmes plunged to his death. Or did he? From our balcony in Reuti we can see the falls, which from that distance appear as an unimpressive ribbon. Up close, however, Reichenbach Falls are loud and fearful, if not violent. We bought round-trip tickets for the funicular ride up along the falls. To our surprise there remained a steep twenty-minute climb to reach the top. Nonetheless, raging cascades along the way made this mini hike well worth the effort. There is a restaurant at the top that offers from its terrace a magnificent view across Meiringen, including much of the Hasliberg ridge. As a bonus, the longest, widest, and brightest rainbow we have seen stretched five miles across the valley below.
Day 5; Sunday, August 31, 2002:
So, now that we've been in the Heartland for four days, what are our impressions? First, we are most comfortable in our apartment. Evenings spent on the balcony with a beverage of choice and a few snacks while reviewing events of the day and gazing at the astounding mountain scenery will be long remembered. Second, we feel very much at home in Reuti. Moreover, much of the evening balcony time is spent discussing not so much whether we would return to Reuti, but whether we would base ourselves anywhere else. We enjoy access to high mountains above as well as to Meiringen below. We look forward to rides on the lifts and we never tire of the scenic bus rides back and forth along the Hasliberg. We are beginning to understand why so many Untourists vacation repeatedly in the Heartland. We're having a ball.Today's forecast was the opposite of yesterday's, that is, showers in the morning, better in the afternoon. We seem to be winging this vacation, letting each day take care of itself. Planning even one day ahead has yet to occur. Only over breakfast do we begin thinking seriously about the events of the day. Joan acquired a brochure at Orientation describing a walk along the Hasliberg that traces its architectural history from the 1500s to the 1930s. The walk (Hasliberger Dorfweg) begins in Reuti. What better way to spend a misty morning than learning more about the region along paths not yet taken? For easy identification, the brochure includes photos of most of the old houses. Strategically placed Hasliberger-Dorfweg signs mark the route. This was a delightful hike along narrow roads, first looping around Reuti then descending to a forest where we saw our first red fox in its natural habitat. From the forest, the trail ascends to Goldern. We ended the hike in Goldern when we realized that the next phase includes the trail from Wasserwendi down to Hohfluh, a segment already walked on Day 2.
The bus that goes back and forth across the Hasliberg arrived at Goldern just as we did. As you might have gathered by now, our vacation custom and practice has us taking the main meal mid-day in a restaurant and snacking supper with a beverage of choice on the balcony late afternoon into early evening. We never use the stove, not even in the morning to boil water for coffee or tea. Our cereal and orange juice breakfasts suffice. Anyway, it was time for the main meal. We took the bus to Brunig-Hasliberg station then boarded the train for Meiringen. On the recommendation of Untour alums Charmaine and Tom Hall, we decided on Restaurant Lucca, an establishment that is charming both outside and inside. We are happy to second the Hall's recommendation of this fine Italian restaurant.
We left the restaurant just before 2 p.m. in need of one more event, preferably a hike. On full stomachs we hustled to the train station just in time to catch the 2:05 to Brunig-Hasliberg where we boarded the bus headed up the Hasliberg. We took the bus only half way, getting off at Twing where we purchased one-way tickets for the gondola ride up the mountain to Kaserstatt. Our second hike of the day led from Kaserstatt along the Marmot Trail (Murmeliweg) to Magisalp. Although we saw a zillion marmot holes on this one-hour hike along a wide trail that rises gradually before descending to Magisalp, we heard no marmot whistles nor did we see any of the furry creatures. From Magisalp we took the gondola down to Reuti.
Day 6; Monday, September 1, 2003:
We awoke to bright sun in a cloudless sky. The weather forecast was good, especially for the afternoon. What better day to take the hike some say is one of the most spectacular hikes not only in the Heartland, but in all of Switzerland. At Orientation Marianne suggested we request tickets for the Horizon Trail (Horizonweg) which includes the gondola ride from Reuti up to Planplatten on the front end as well as the bus ride from Engstlenalp down to Meiringen on the back end. The early portion of the Horizon Trail coincides with the Skyline Walk described in Untour's Hiking and Biking Guide. The Guide warns that this hike should be avoided by anyone with a fear of open heights.As the gondola reached the starting point at Planplatten, Reuti's sunshine had somehow morphed into cloud cover. Visibility was not a hundred percent but sufficient to begin the hike. Little did we know that for the wrong reasons this hike would become unforgettable. The early part of the hike takes place along a narrow trail with the mountain rising steeply on the left side and falling off precipitously on the right side, permitting splendid open-height views of the valley below and of mountain vistas as far as the eye can see. Unfortunately, within thirty minutes we were enveloped by clouds and would be unable to see more than twenty feet in any direction for most of the next three hours.
Anyway, the high-elevation point of the hike is Balmeregghorn, which is reached by a steep, thirty-minute climb over rocks after crossing a snowfield. No doubt Balmeregghorn is the spot where we would have gasped at what must be magnificent mountain scenery. Alas, amidst dense clouds we saw absolutely nothing. Visibility became even worse as we descended slowly toward Tannalp. Picturesque lakes, Melchsee and Tannensee, which we knew were far below on the left, could not be seen. Now into our third hour of dawdling in the clouds along poorly marked trails, we began to worry. The bus stop at Engstlenalp was our destination, but how far away was it? One hour? Two? And at what time does the last bus leave? Figuring time would not be an issue, we did not bother jotting down departure times using the bus schedule available in the apartment. What if we miss the last bus? These and other negative thoughts increased the tension as two weary hikers in their mid-sixties trudged onward hoping to avoid spending the night huddled under the scrub brush lining both sides of the trail. In the interest of objective reporting, it must be stated that while Dick was preoccupied with survival during this period, Joan felt that hiking in the clouds was exotic. She especially enjoyed the hike as we came down to the Tannensee. Barely visible in a moor-like landscape of rutted green pastures that made Joan feel as if she were walking in Ireland or Scotland were a few fishermen at the shore. The air was sufficiently cool and damp for the surface moisture to rise from the lake like gossamers before dissolving into the misty air.
Visibility improved as we reached the restaurant at Tannalp where we learned that Engstlealp was still thirty-five minutes around the bend and down the mountain. As much as we wanted to rest and refuel at the restaurant, fear of missing the bus forced us onward. Finally, after four hours of non-stop hiking, two tired puppies reached Engstlealp. With a forty-five minute wait for what turned out to be the next to last bus, we went into the restaurant of the Engstlealp Hotel where we relaxed over bratwurst mit rosti and beer. In the restaurant we met and chatted with the Underhills and the Bruxvoorts, Reuti neighbors and fellow Untourists from Colorado. They had come down to Engstlealp after an excursion over the Jochpass. Back in Meiringen we mailed postcards and stocked up on supplies at the Coop before taking the tram up to Reuti. What a day!
Day 7; Tuesday, September 2, 2003:
The forecast showed a large high-pressure area moving across England that is supposed to lock in good weather for the next three days. After yesterday's debacle, we would not begin today with another gondola ride up to Planplatten. Wanna bet? Indeed, we did go up, not to repeat the hike, but to see some of the views at and near Planplatten missed yesterday. In addition, Joan wanted to see the impressive crystal eagle with a seven-foot wingspan that hangs in the lobby of Alpen Tower, the main building at Planplatten.Today's hike is named High Trail (Hohenweg). High Trail proceeds gradually down from Planplatten, via Haagen, across to Kaserstatt. Two things of interest occurred during this hike. First, at the outset a herd of some twenty brown goats began following us down the mountain, the lead goat nibbling the bottom of Dick's knapsack. When we stopped, the goats stopped. When we started, the goats started. While comical, we did not want the goats following us all the way to Kaserstatt. These goats, alert and energized, seemed willing and able to do just that. Dick turned suddenly, placed a hand in the face of the lead goat and shouted "no." Hardly original, but it worked. Second, shortly after solving the goat problem, a Swiss couple from Luzern overtook us. We struck up a conversation and ended up hiking all the way to Kaserstatt with Kurt and Lotti. While Lotti was easy to understand, Kurt struggled with his English. Struggle or not, communication was sufficient to learn that Kurt was an animal lover anxious to retire in three years so he can spend more time among the animals grazing in the high alps. What would have been at most a two-hour hike became a two and a half hour hike as Kurt spotted a young eagle flying overhead and discoursed on eagles, then spotted a marmot and discoursed on marmots, then spotted a certain type of cow and discoursed on cows. You get the picture. We learned a lot about mountain animals from Kurt, and Joan had a good time with Lotti, discussing everything up to and including U.S. politics and the war with Iraq.
But that's not the end of the story. On reaching Kaserstatt the four of us sat on a bench to rest, or so we thought. Not so. Kurt opened his Swiss Army rucksack issued in 1962 at the start of his military service, a rucksack still in excellent condition. He removed from the rucksack a Swiss Army knife and a chunk of bread, which he cut into four slabs. Then he took out a block of cheese and some wurst, cutting these into four pieces. Out came a tube of mustard. In no time we were in the midst of an impromptu and delightful picnic. Minutes later, out of the rucksack came a canteen filled with tea, which Kurt poured into four small cups. On this warm sunny afternoon the four of us continued munching and yakking. Picnic nearly over, Dick suggested we go into the restaurant where we would treat for dessert. Kurt would have none of it. Again his hand went into the rucksack and out came a chocolate bar, ending further discussion of dessert. Kurt and Lotti lingered as we left to resume hiking. Although we planned to hike down to Twing and take the bus to Reuti, tired legs from yesterday's tension-packed hike and the hike just completed made us reconsider taking what would have been a two-hour hike downhill. Instead, we took the gondola from Kaserstatt down to Twing and the bus back to Reuti.
On the balcony we reflected on recent hikes while watching two deer graze in the distance at the edge of the forest. Dick enjoys tennis. Eurosport network is covering the U.S. Open tennis tournament now taking place in New York. The time difference permits live coverage all evening into the wee hours of the morning. Alas, today was the second consecutive day nearly all matches were postponed due to rain. Dick is also having difficulty following the Red Sox who are battling the Yankees for first place in the A.L. East. While USA Today and the International Herald Tribune provide day-late scores, neither paper is available in Reuti and we keep forgetting to buy a paper when in Meiringen. While our satellite TV receives nearly two hundred stations, Euro News and NBC Europe, both based in Britain, are the only English-speaking stations available. Financial news? Yes. Baseball scores? Sorry.
Day 8; Wednesday, September 3, 2003:
High pressure over England continues to influence our weather. The forecast shows no rain and a warming trend continuing at least through tomorrow. We are enjoying the high-elevation hikes available in the Meiringen-Hasliberg area. Today's hike would feature the Jochpass. From Reuti we could reach the Jochpass via Engleberg after a bus ride, two train rides, and two lifts, or we could take the tram down to Meiringen, a bus to Engstlenalp, then a lift. We chose the latter. In Meiringen, Dick bought USA Today. The Red Sox trail the Yankees by 4-1/2 games. Yikes! When we reached Engstlenalp there was only one cloud in the sky. Unfortunately, the cloud sat smack atop the Jochpass. Flashbacks to cloud cover along the Horizon Trail on Day 6 forced an immediate change in plans. We decided to take what the Untour Hiking and Biking Guide calls the Three-Lake Walk: Melchsee-Frutt to Engstlealp. We would do it in reverse.A short distance from the bus stop is the quiescent Engstlesee, on this day a gorgeous blue-green in color and outlined to the east and south by mountains rising to snow-capped peaks. We returned to the bus stop and soon were hiking up a steep, narrow trail in the mountainside leading to Tannalp. At Tannalp we took our main meal at the restaurant where we had no time to stop on Day 6. The hike became a walk as we continued, delightfully so, for one hour along the shore of Tannensee, past the landmark stone chapel at Melchsee, and along the road bordering Melchsee to the village of Melchsee-Frutt. The return to Reuti, which included a long gondola ride down to Stockalp, a wait for the bus down to Sarnen, a train ride to Brunig-Hasliberg and, finally, a bus ride home, consumed two hours. A tedious commute? Anything but. We have yet to take a gondola ride, bus ride, or train ride that has been other than interesting and scenic. The commutes are a blast. Rain plagues U.S. Open tennis for the third consecutive day. Ugh!
Day 9; Thursday September 4, 2003:
OK, we've spent the past three days hiking in the mountains above Hasliberg. Featured hiking attractions, such as Kaserstatt, Magisalp, Planplatten, Balmeregghorn, Engstlealp, as well as the three attractive mountain lakes, Melchsee, Tannensee, and Engstlesee, are notches in our hiking sticks. Time for something different. We decided to go back to the other side of Meiringen, in particular, up to the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorge high above Reichenbach Falls.A steep and scenic bus ride out of Meiringen delivered us to the Gorge entrance. To experience the gorge itself we walked along the rail-lined walkway cut into the canyon wall where, as they have for millions of years, raging cascades born of the massive Rosenlaui Glacier sculpt deeper and deeper. After climbing to the top of the gorge, a curvy path leads back down to the entrance. Gorge visit over, we walked ten minutes down the road to the Rosenlaui Hotel to have our main meal. Outdoor seating was available on this warm and sunny afternoon. No sooner had we ordered than down the road came the California Cooleys and the Arizona Halls. They had walked down from Schwartzwaldap following a tour of a century-old sawmill, a special event for Untour alumni. Having already had lunch, they joined us for a beverage. We boarded the 2:20 bus to Meiringen.
Thus far the trip has been devoted to hiking and walking. Joan has had little time to shop. She remedied this circumstance following our fifteen-minute train ride from Meiringen to Brienz, a village catering to woodcarvers and their wares. Once back in Meiringen, Joan continued to browse and shop while Dick sat on the steps of the Tourist Office reading USA Today.
Day 10; Friday, September 5, 2003:
The weather gods are still smiling. Planning at the last minute over breakfast has been working well because most events have started from the Reuti lift station either with a gondola ride up the mountain or a tram ride down to Meiringen. In other words, we've been able to begin most days at the moment of our choosing. Now that we've done many of the featured hikes in our immediate area, planning becomes slightly more important. This is especially true when a train ride is required to reach the destination of choice. Today was such a day. Little did we know when we left Reuti on the 10:46 bus to the Brunig-Hasliberg train station that today's hike would be demanding as well as frightening.We connected seamlessly with the train headed for Luzern, getting off fifteen minutes later in Lungern. After walking downhill through Lungern we reached the lift station where we boarded a tram for the ride up to Turren followed by a quad chairlift which took us up to Schonbuel, today's hiking destination. From the chairlift, it's a short stroll to the restaurant, in front of which is large trail map. We selected what looked like a risk-free ninety-minute hike around the base of Hoch Gumme, the prominent mountain just ahead. We began walking clockwise around Hoch Gumme along a trail so wide we could walk and at the same time gaze in all directions at wondrous mountain scenery. Perhaps today's younger generation has the descriptor appropriate for the expansive mountain panoramas viewable from Schonbuel – totally awesome.
But now the fun begins. Our first surprise came with the realization that the wide trail we were on was but a teaser. Instead of continuing around Hoch Gumme, the trail turned right and headed toward the summit. Moreover, the steep rocky trail now before us carved into the side of the mountain was only a foot wide, two at the most. Quickly we understood why so many hikers starting up the mountain were turning around and coming down. And pray tell the purpose of those waist-high steel cables up ahead spiked into the mountain wall. They could only be handholds to lessen the chance a hiker might end up fattening the wallet of a local orthopedic surgeon or funeral director or both. Reaching the summit of Hoch Gumme would not be easy.
The slow climb was made slower and more dangerous by the need to accommodate those with second thoughts who had turned around as well as those who had started out counterclockwise around Hoch Gumme and were now descending from the summit. Anyway, the tedious climb was tiring but manageable. The last fifteen minutes to the summit, however, were frightening. The trail is narrow with drop-offs on either side ranging in consequence from bumps and bruises to certain death. Mind games made matters worse as we were concerned about what could happen once we reach the summit. What if the trail leading down the other side is even more intimidating? The thought that we would have to go down the way we came up was unbearable. Joan was in the lead with Dick close behind, holding on tightly enough to guard against a fall while at the same time trying not to affect Joan's balance during the baby-step ascent. We were relieved to reach the summit and its spectacular 360-degree view. We were equally relieved to discover that the descent would take place along a wide, safe trail.
Day 11; Saturday, September 6, 2003:
Today's weather forecast was less than perfect, cloudy with showers. Good. We welcomed the chance to shift our transmissions into neutral. Today we'd be lazy. Twenty lashes and no evening balcony snacks or beverage for the first person with an elevated heart rate.Reuti and the Heartland were affecting us in mysterious ways. We love Zermatt. At some point we had planned to leave Reuti for a two-night stay in Zermatt. Now neither of us wants to go. And what about the Jungfrau Region? We've yet to visit favorite haunts such as Grindelwald, Mannlichen, Kleine Scheidegg and Murren. What's going on?
For old-time's sake we did go to Grindelwald. It felt good boarding the old brown train at Interlaken Ost then climbing slowly to Grindelwald. Ah, the sight of the Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn filling the Grindelwald sky as the train arrives never ceases to impress. The next few hours were spent having the main meal and shopping.
Back in Reuti, Margrit, our landlady, joined us on the balcony. Later, Dick watched until 1 a.m. the five-set U.S. Open semi-final won by Andy Roddick over David Nalbandian. Dick has lost track of the Red Sox.
Day 12; Sunday, September 7, 2003:
While we were anxious to return to hiking, the forecast was good for morning, showers in the afternoon. What's the problem? Hike in the morning. Sorry, we can't. Joan learned at Orientation about a huge flea market taking place today beside the Brunig-Hasliberg train station. This morning's event is not penciled in, it's carved in stone. The 10:12 bus from Reuti had us at the flea market in twenty-five minutes. Joan was in heaven roaming from booth to booth. Included in her cache were a set of Swiss-made napkin rings and two leather watchbands, one black, one red. Embroidered colorfully on the watchbands were edelweiss, cows, and the Swiss flag. The seller was happy to take the time required to size both bands to Joan's watch. The watch, purchased a few years ago in Bern, is a replica of the clock seen outside nearly every Swiss train station.Muggestutz, the 300-year-old gnome, is back. First, near the Brunig-Hasliberg train station on the bed of a trailer is a six-foot-tall Muggestutz advertising the Dwarf Trail hiked on Day 4. While we've seen this Muggestutz many times from the bus going to and from the train station, we now had no excuse on exiting the flea market for not walking across the street so that Dick could photograph Joan hugging her mascot. Second, there is another Dwarf Trail on Hasliberg. This trail (Zwergenweg zum Bannwald) is advertised as the first trail in Switzerland to include alpine moors and swamp. Swamp is a bit harsh as we would see nothing on this trail resembling what the word suggests. Anyway, from the Brunig-Hasliberg train station we took the bus along Hasliberg as far as Twing where we purchased one-way tickets for the gondola ride to Kaserstatt, the starting point for this Dwarf Trail.
To our delight the forecast calling for afternoon showers was badly in error. We, along with many families experiencing with their children myriad gnome-related exhibits along the way, hiked down from Kaserstatt in warm sunshine under a cloudless sky. The highlight of this two-hour hike occurred as we came to a small farmhouse where we spotted a woman selling alp cheese (alpkase) from the back of a wagon. By holding our hands apart just the right distance, the woman understood how much cheese to cut from the big wheel. Oh my, this cheese was the freshest, most delicious cheese we'd ever eaten. We stood near her wagon for a few minutes eating cheese and watching children pet six enormous hogs lazing in the sun. We hiked down for thirty minutes before abandoning the Dwarf Trail in favor of a trail leading down to Wasserwendi. The cheese whetted our appetite for the main meal.
When we reached the outskirts of town we could see Restaurant Wasserwendi in the distance. Sometimes, what seems to be a hiking destination reachable in five minutes ends up taking thirty. This seems to occur when you are either tired or hungry, or, as we were, both. What we thought would be a straight shot to Restaurant Wasserwendi turned into long downhill walk along a road consisting of switchbacks. Making matters worse was the need to hurry, as we wanted to reach the restaurant well before 2 p.m., the hour restaurant kitchens tend to close in the afternoon. Fortunately, today was Sunday. The high-paced finish was for naught. We had ample time to enjoy our dinner. Since our Day-2 visit, Restaurant Wasserwendi had added several wildlife displays in the main dining room. Also, the owner, whom Joan befriended during our first visit, at the end of the meal presented Joan with a small gnome for our Christmas tree. We returned to Reuti by bus.
Dick watched the U.S, Open men's final until 1 a.m. Andy Roddick won in straight-sets over Juan Carlos Ferraro. Dick still has no idea how the Red Sox are doing.
Day 13; Monday, September 8, 2003:
Idyll hosts a farewell party for the Untourists near the end of each two-week term. The party is tonight at Hotel Reuti. During the day we would take it easy. The weather forecast was good so we decided to take a boat ride on Lake Brienz. We would go by boat across the lake to Iseltwald for a bite to eat then meander along the shore before returning to Brienz by boat, to Meiringen by train and to Reuti by tram.According to the train and boat schedules, the boat connection was better at Interlaken Ost than at Brienz. Timing would be perfect for the 12:40 boat from Interlaken Ost. Or would it? At the ticket booth we were disappointed to learn that Sunday (yesterday) was the last day for the 12:40 boat. Rather than wait for the next boat, we walked to Interlaken West, stopping for a bite to eat at a restaurant with outside seating. We returned to Meiringen and visited the Coop for the last time.
Idyll's party at Hotel Reuti was a five-minute walk from our apartment. The enjoyable two-hour event began at 5:45 with dinner, which included soup, salad, pork cutlet, potatoes, peas, carrots and vanilla-pudding dessert. As we ate, three Swiss-costumed musician/singers entertained. They were followed by an alp-horn aficionado who, when finished, permitted willing Untourists to give it a try. The evening ended with audience-participation games and singing.
Day 14; Tuesday, September 9, 2003:
Rain would be our constant companion on this, our last day in the Heartland. Morning clouds and fog obliterated the mountains, limiting visibility to less than a hundred feet. So what. This has been a magnificent trip. The Heartland exceeded expectations by a wide margin. We were delighted to learn that when measured in terms of imposing mountain panoramas and availability of scenic hiking trails, the Heartland can hold its own against the more touristy Oberland. We would happily return to the Heartland, especially to Reuti.A good book can make a rainy morning tolerable. We each have a page-turner. It was a pleasure for both of us to do nothing but read until early afternoon when it became time think about the main meal. We took the 12:12 bus to Brunig-Hasliberg and the 12:39 train to Meiringen, where we had dinner in the Hotel Rebstock restaurant. The specialty of the day was pangasiusfilet vom grill. Egad, what might that be? The waitress said it was a fish from Vietnam. While we are somewhat timid when it comes to trying new dishes, we took a deep breath, exhaled slowly then ordered the specialty. It was delicious. Following dinner, Joan shopped for the next hour or so while Dick read USA Today.
Day 15; Wednesday, September 10, 2003:
While we must leave to the apartment today, our flight home is tomorrow (on 9/11). In addition to its delightful main square and interesting oriel windows along the main street leading down to the Rhine River, there are three reasons why on previous trips we have spent the last night in Schaffhausen: First, at 3:35 p.m. there is a two-hour cruise (no additional charge with the Swiss Pass) up the Rhine to the picturesque medieval town of Stein-am-Rhein. Second, arrival time at Stein-am-Rhein is near perfect for the evening meal at Hotel Rheinfels' terrace restaurant overlooking the Rhine. The mouth-watering fish specialties and superior service at Hotel Rheinfels keep us coming back. Third, Schaffhausen is well located for the next-day departure from Zurich airport.Yet, this time we did not spend the last night in Schaffhausen. In the spring we spent two-weeks vacationing in South Carolina. We drove down from Boston, spending the first night in Delaware to be near the famous Winterthur estate, which we planned to visit the next day. Come to find out the estate is named after the city of Winterthur, Switzerland, the ancestral home of Jaques Antoine Bidermann, second owner of the property. Bidermann and his wife, Evelina Gabrielle du Pont, acquired the land in 1837 from Eleuthere Irenee du Pont, her father and founder of the Du Pont Company. For the fun of it, we spent the last night in Winterthur rather than Schaffhausen. We did, however, go by train from Winterthur to Stein-am-Rhein in order to dine at Hotel Rheinfels. Alas, the restaurant, no longer on its summer schedule, was closed Wednesday. We went across the street to another restaurant featuring fish specialties. To our delight, the food and service were superb. The older woman on duty was pleasant and accommodating. Early on when she saw Joan admiring the intricately folded napkins on our table, she came over and gave Joan a lesson, persisting until Joan mastered every fold. This was a good meal to go out on, the perfect ending to another wonderful Untour experience.