Tuscany South Untour, Spring of 2004

by John and Barbara Rybczyk, The Villages, FL

If you are thinking about going - Go.

If you are deciding where to go - Tuscany South was fantastic during this time of year.

The weather was perfect. The scenery was fantastic. We have traveled to a number of places over the years and nothing compares to the Tuscany South area. Wheat fields, olive trees, grape vines and last but not least the trees. Just overwhelming.

The trip started off great. Traveling with Air France was great. Meals were good, wines were better (free), did you ever notice if its free they taste better, and your own private TV, with a number of movies, games, news, etc to select from. We traveled economy.

I said weather was perfect, but carry sweaters, it was chilly in the morning, great during the day, and a little chilly at night. Sweater weather.

The pick up in Florence went well, driving the car from Siena to our place, traveling in caravan was something to remember. First you don't want to get lost, second you are driving a stick shift, and thirdly, the Italian drivers don't care that you don't want to get lost and you are driving a stick shift. You are a careful driver that first day, probably very cautious. But believe me by the third day, you are driving like "Mario A" and enjoying it.

We decided before we left that we were not going to Florence. Its a big city, and a great museum, but it takes more than one day to see it. Some people came early and some people stayed a couple of extra days, we did neither, we just didn't plan it and didn't go. There were too may little towns in the area that we wanted to spend time. We also drove everywhere.

We did not take the train or bus anywhere.

Some things, you need to know:

1. You will get lost. Get over it. It will happen. Its part of the trip.

2. The views are terrific and if you are an artist, you will probably want to stop every mile and paint or draw.

3. Stores close in the middle of the day. That includes restaurants. If you are planning on a late lunch, forget it. Stores close around 1 to include restaurants. Stores open up early, restaurants don't start serving again until around 7:30. Plan your day.

4. Some places, especially the little restaurants do not take credit cards. Ask before you buy.

5. The Coop takes credit cards. Found it reasonable. The one is Buonconvento is bigger, but the town is really small. Montalcino has a small Coop, but the town is bigger. There is also a laundry right near the Coop, in Montalcino (5 Euros to wash and 5 Euros to dry) If you decide to go, go on Market day, at least you can walk around while the laundry is being done.

6. Trying to get free parking is a game. Whoever plays the game best, gets free parking. Its a little costly in Siena and free parking is definitely hard to find there.

7. What to do on a rainy day. It rained 2 afternoons during our trip. We sent to the SPA, at the Hotel Terme San Filippo in Bagni San Filippo. Stop by early in the trip (visit Pienza in the morning, then go to Monticchiello and drinks overlooking the city and then go to Bagni San Filippo and pick up a brochure, it also has a Thermal Pool (in the hotel and out in the city). Stop at the little bar across from the hotel, (only hotel in town) and have some house wine and Bruschetta. We had Bruschetta at several places, just a snack, this place was the best.

8. When you go out for dinner, or stop for drinks, unless you want to pay the big prices, order the house wine, its way cheaper, and still great wine. Sometimes you will not find it on the menu, ask.

9. Two great places to eat, for us anyway. La Crocina, just 2KM outside of Montalcino, we stayed on a wine, olive place right next door which was called La Crociona. Just about 50 yards from our apartment. Meals were great, they took Credit cards and spoke English. The second place that was great was in the town of Murlo, its the restaurant behind the museum called La Locanda del Castello. There is also another restaurant in the town, we ate there also, but did not care for it as much as La Locanda del Castello. The house wine was terrific and the lasagna was fantastic. Worst meal we had was a Taverna De Barbi. Besides being bad, it was expensive.

10. We stayed at the La Crociona. Fiorella and her two children Barbara and Roberto run the place. Grandma and Grandpa are also there. It was a great place to stay. The owners were most helpful, spoke English and just were pleasant. It was also right near a great place to eat, La Crociona, the took credit cards and had great house wine. They were only 2KM from Montalcino and about 6KM from the Abbey at Sant Antino. They also had a pool, and a place to sit outside and meet and drink with the other people staying there. Also one day a week, Fiorella has a cooking class and then invites everyone for the meal The cost was more than reasonable because it included all the wine. You did not have to stay there to come for the meal, but you do have to know when it is.

11. We stayed close to the area for the most part (about one hour or so out) and stopped in all the little towns. We did make three big trip outside that area:

We went to Assisi, it was terrific. A little long drive but it was worth the trip.
We went to San Gimignano and found it to be better than Siena, for us anyway.
We made the Chianti Valley trip. We took SS 2 to Siena and then 222 . We stopped in Castellini and Gieve and a couple of other towns. We had lunch at Lamole and stopped in Rada on our way back.

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