This is a favorite of ours and seemed worth revisiting as the first of two Palio days approaches in Siena on July 2. This historic horse race is a critical part of Siena’s culture, and a favorite spectacle for visitors to the Tuscan Untour. All photos by Andrea Cancelliere.
I arrive on the back of a moped, dressed in comfortable shoes and clothes and sporting a sash bearing the image of a porcupine. I can sense the emotion in the air.
The Palio is felt in the heart and soul of every Sienese, no matter how old or young, or how large or small the contrada. The fervor with which each contradaiolo (contrada member) roots for his horse cannot be conveyed with mere words, but must be felt when among the people. 
I was lucky enough to participate in the July 2nd Palio with one of our Tuscan landladies, Elisabetta Cresti, owner of Poggio Rose 1, 2 and 3. She is a proud member of the Istrice (Porcupine) Contrada, and her husband Massimo Pagliai (who is of the Nicchio, or Seashell, Contrada, which luckily was not running).
I too am excited. After all, the Contrada of the Istrice, which hasn’t run in three years, has been lucky enough to have drawn the best horse and best jockey from the lot. Given the circumstances, it should turn out to be a bel Palio.
In all, the Palio turns out to be a weeklong affair with horse and jockey assignment, the preparation of the track and the trial races. But, the true spirit of the Palio is felt on the actual day itself. Flocks of people fill the Piazza del Campo and the terraces that surround it. As race time draws near, spectators who are along the track are gradually moved into the center of the square so the freshly laid Tuscan earth can be cleaned of any debris.
At 5 pm the historical procession begins. The first to enter are the trumpeters, followed by flag bearers for each of the townships that were historically aligned with Siena. Next enter the masters of ceremony followed by the Contradas, each dressed in their official Renaissance wear, with banner wavers, men in armor and the horse and jockey that the Contrada has been assigned. There are 17 contradas in all, but only 10 actually participate in today’s race.
Representatives of the other 7 are present in the parade. The last, and most important, arrival in the Campo is the oxen drawn cart which carries the Palio itself. A rectangular banner designed and created specifically for each race, the Palio is the ultimate prize for the contrada.
Once the procession has finished and everyone is in place, the horses and jockeys approach the mossa, or the starting gate, which isn’t a gate at all, but two pieces of rope, one behind and one in front of the horses. When the order has been selected (drawn, again, by lots), they line up from the inner to the outer lanes.
Once set, a shot is fired and the bareback race of 3 laps begins. It’s one of the most intense races imaginable. The crowd cheers, the emotion in their faces and expressions is evident, even from a distance. The horse from the Aquila contrada pulls ahead straight away, but the other nine horses are in hot pursuit.
Then two jockeys are taken out at the first San Martino (the most dangerous curve on the square), but the two horses stay in the race (it is possible to win even without a jockey). Aquila remains ahead for the rest of the race, followed by Oca, Pantera and Istrice in fourth.
After the last curve and in the home stretch, Aquila’s archrival, Pantera moves into second place and begins to challenge Aquila for first. Aquila’s horse just can’t go any faster and Pantera slips into first at the last possible moment. The crowd goes wild. The jockey is carried through the square on the shoulders of his contradaioli, other members leap into the square and kiss the horse and sing their Contrada anthem. The members of the Aquila are stunned, as are most of us in the crowd.
What a surprise ending, what emotion in the air. And even though my adopted contrada, the Istrice, did not win, I must admit it was a bellissimo Palio!