Pete and Maggie go to Italy -- May-June 2000
by Peter and Margaret Haggart, Moscow ID
See photos at: http://users.moscow.com/haggart
Monday, May 15th Moscow to Boston
Left Moscow at 9:30 a.m. At the airport found that our flight was an hour and 40 minutes late. This was the beginning of our interesting airplane fiasco. Because we missed our connecting flight in Minneapolis, they booked us on a later flight. We arrived in Boston at 1:30 am and were not in our motel room until 2:30 am!Tuesday, May 16th and Wednesday, May 17th Boston to NCY to Paris to Florence to Siena to Montalcino
We arrived at the Boston airport at 12:30 and found out that there was a fire brigade strike at the Brussels airport. Our Sabena plane had not even left for the USA. They gave us a meal voucher and we had a really nice lunch at the Legal Fish Company. Back at the ticket counter the agent suggested a reroute through NYC to Paris and Florence, arriving only5 minutes later than originally planned. Pete called Idyll so that they could notify Harriet in Italy.On the flight to NYC a woman from Moscow, Russia sat next to Pete gave him a big smile! All of her teeth – every single one was capped in gold!! The agent at the Air France desk said at first that we had no seats and then said she could give us the last two seats, but they were not together. Whew! We took turns waiting at the departure gate counter so that we could try and arrange seats together. One man came up beside M and stood as though he was first in line and sadly lamented that he didn’t have a seat assignment yet. We do get seats together – but the plane is packed – we feel like sardines in a can!
Dawn breaks on another day a couple of hours out of Paris. We had forgotten the confusing Paris airport where the planes don’t park at the terminal but out in the weeds. You on a bus and ride to one part of the terminal – then up the stairs (the escalator is not working) and down again to another bus to go to yet another part of the terminal and up the stairs again to check in – but first we have to go through customs and screening – our passports should be on a yo-yo strings.
The flight to Florence starts with a special treat for M. The flight attendant offered glasses of what she thought were orange and apple juice. She took a big glass of apple juice and imagine her surprise as she swallowed that 10 am WINE! We arrived in Florence around noon. Both of us were bleary-eyed from lack of sleep and the 9 hour time difference. There were lots of UnTour folks on this plane and as we got off we anticipated the usual request for passports and had them out and ready for inspection. But no one was interested in our passports. However there was a policeman with a dog that sniffed everyone and all the luggage. Also a police captain with a wonderfully overdone uniform who strutted around the area looking very important.
The Idyll representative (Harriet) met us – along with a nice young man who was helping her herd people around. We then we were bused (it was hot and the road full of curves) to Siena to pick up our rental car. Ours is a blue Lancia 2-door hatch-back with a 5-speed shift. Our landlady – Anna Ginotti – attached a red ribbon to the back of our car – and the other two cars going to the Poggiarellino Farm.
Our apartment is peaceful, charming, and full of antique furniture. We have a combined dinning room/living room with a refrigerator, gas cook-top, sink, toaster, coffee-maker, and a large table and cabinet – plus a couple of comfortable chairs. Next is a large bathroom with shower, a storage area, and then the bedroom in the back with a queen bed, dresser, and tall cabinet to hang clothes. The view is beautiful – the focal point being the distant hill-top town of Montalcino.
We chatted with our UnTour neighbors, but turned down an invitation to find to eat out. We were just too tired to be good company. We ate some good cheese and a bold red wine produced at the farm. Then took a test drive up the mountain (they call them the Tuscan hills – but they are bigger than hills) to Montalcino. The views were simply spectacular as dusk turned to a full moon but we badly needed a hot shower and some sleep.
Thursday, May 18th Buonconvento Area – Orientation Day –
Sunny and Warm. The apartment has vaulted ceilings, big windows, heavy doors, antique furniture (which came from the main house and belonged to Mr. Ginotti’s family) red tile floors, plaster walls, brick arches, wooden beams separated by large red bricks. Anna Ginotti said that the farm had been in her husbands family “century.” Did she mean 100 years or perhaps several hundred years?The rooster crows about 5:15 and then the chickens seem to have a really good time for about 30 minutes – then the song birds join in. The only sounds at the Pergola (our apartment name) come from nature. M thinks that she could have actually slept the clock around – but we are due at the orientation meeting at 10:30.
We had a breakfast of fresh farm eggs, toast, juice and coffee. After breakfast we went looking for the chickens. The path was steep and Maggie lost her footing in the gravel and fell – a scrape on the knee and a sprain in the wrist, but no major damage except to pride. We did find a large flock of chickens. The farm has olive trees, but is dominated by the grape vines. We have a grape arbor outside our door where we can sit in the evening to read the paper and have a glass of the red wine produced by the Ginotti’s.
We didn’t dream that Tuscany would be so beautiful. The drive to our orientation meeting at Fattoria Pieve a Salti (3km from Buonconvento) was absolutely breathtaking. No straight lines – all curving roads and hills. The sun is shining brightly but the temperature is only in the upper 70s. The view from our orientation site is 360 degrees of never ending fields and hills – all green and lush.
After introductions – for most of the people this was their first UnTour – but one had done ten! Harriet Gussoni (our contact person in Tuscany) gave us a good orientation to customs, driving habits (like tailgating), parking regulations (tickets can be expensive), and events in the region – along with some maps of the two towns and a regional highway map.
We had a lovely lunch at the restaurant Pieve a Salti – 1st course pasta with a pesto sauce – 2nd course beef strips marinated in oil, wine and vinegar – a lettuce salad, bread, and then finally a fruit plate – all for 30.000L or $15 each. We shared our table with Bill and Nancy Sartain from Houston, TX who are staying at the same farm, He was (and we believe still is) in the insurance business and is an avid golfer and she had a real estate agency. They have traveled extensively, but not with Idyll.
We came back to our apartment for a siesta (it was 3 pm) – Pete is feeling a bit wobbly. At 5 pm we went to Buonconvento and walked the narrow streets of the historic old town which is surrounded by ancient walls. The huge wooden door to the town is still standing. We can imagine the citizens shutting that door to aggressive marauders for protection. We bought stamps and postcards in the Tabacchi shop and then did some grocery shopping in the Coop. Pete tried out the ATM machine at the local bank and was successful!!.
We got to see part of the wine making operation at the Ginotti’s farm. The wine they gave us is full bodied and young and only $3 a bottle! We went back to Buonconvento for a light supper at Mario’s – pasta, bread and wine. There is no menu at this restaurant and only one English speaking waiter. But it was crowded with happy animated Italians. Eating at 9:30 pm is really not so bad after all!
See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart
Friday, May 19th Sant’ Antimo – Pienza – Abbazia De Monte Oliveto Maggiore – Buonconvento
The sun is greeting us today – not a cloud in the sky. We enjoyed a simple breakfast and were off up the long hill to Montalcino. There is a fragrance in the air that we can’t identify, but there are wildflowers everywhere, so it might be from them. Our first goal is the Abbey at Sant’ Antimo which lies at the foot of the village of Castelnuvo dell-Abate. The Abbey was founded in the 9th century (built in 980) and has a group of monks that chant the Mass, but much earlier in the day than when we arrived – so we took a walk around the grounds and church. Inside it was spacious, but very plain. The cross was nicely done in wood and some of the frescos are 600 years old. There is also a very “colorful” Madonna behind glass – but there are no stained glass windows.We headed down the mountain (hill) and then up and down the winding road through many little villages – each with its own dominating church, castle or tower. Then the countryside flattened out a bit and we stopped to photograph a large field of red poppies (which we later found out the natives consider a weed). Our next goal was the city of Pienza – which we approached from the valley floor, offering a post card view of its walls and buildings. The road twisted its way to the village and just outside the wall we found free parking. We wandered into the first shop we saw and got thoroughly involved in tasting the varieties of Pecorino cheese – at least four of them until we found the one we really liked – the most expensive. We wandered some more and bought a newspaper and Italian phrase book, but couldn’t seem to find a restaurant. By this time M needed a bathroom. We had been told that all bars were required to have them – so we marched into at Pizzeria/Bar and M demanded in a loud voice “toilet” – a hush fell over the people eating their pizza’s – she said “toilet?” again and the waitress responded “Pizzeria!” Then as M spoke that word once again the waitress pointed to an unmarked door – yes it was the need toilet.
After a brief siesta at the farm we drove to the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore – with the idea of hearing the monks chant the evening mass – but after the long walk down to the church we discovered (via other untourists) that the service schedule had been changed and we would have to return on Sunday morning. Back in Buonconvento we stopped at the Coop so Pete could by some “natural” water and not the fizzy stuff that he bought the first time.
We ran into our neighbors from Texas at a outdoors bar and had some good conversation and wine with them. We mailed our post cards with only 1000L postage – but remained unsure that it was enough postage. The actual required postage was 1300L and they also will sell you at the post office a special handling stamp for 1500L. Those we sent later using 1500L did arrive in the USA – as for the other cards – who knows!
We drove up to Montalcino to eat supper at 8:30 pm. Following the blue “P” parking signs we turned left instead of right and wandered down very narrow streets thinking that eventually the street would just end and we would have to back up the long hill.
But eventually we came to a wide street and circled back and this time turned right and found the recommended car park. We had a wonderful meal at the Osteria al Cassero – M wild boar and Pete braised rabbit – along with salad and wine for $16.00. A gato (cat) also dined with us – the end of a fun and full day in Tuscany
Saturday, May 20th Montalcino – Buonconvento
We again enjoyed farm fresh eggs for breakfast and then it was off to Buonconvento for gas at the Shell station owned and operated by Georgio (we had heard about him from IdyllChat). We greeted by name and he was most appreciative and helpful, even though he did not really speak any English. We walked the town streets and finally located the Saturday Market where we bought some fruit and veggies for our evening meal and stopped by the bakery for some bread and biscotti.Then we drove to Montalcino and browsed in some shops. We ate lunch at the Tavernea Grappola Blu – enjoying a wonderful local pasta with meat and mushrooms and a delightful wine. Then we drove back to Buonconvento and went to the Museo d’Arte Sacra (museum of sacred or religious art). Most of the paintings and sculptures were from the 14th – 16th centuries. They also had sensors and other altar pieces on display. There was an excellent video presentation about the surrounding area and the clay used for the terra cotta art. Then we enjoyed some gelato and magnum bar sitting at a street table watching the locals. The sounds are wonderful – children playing who seem so happy and run free – and the adults who seem to be in constant conversation.
We were enjoying our evening wine when a herd of sheep came over a distant hill. There were a few black goats in the herd with bells on – it sounded so much like Switzerland. Our host family has lots of friends over this evening and we enjoy listening to the Italian language drifting down as we enjoy a simple evening meal at home of melon, tomatoes, fresh bread, olive oil and proscuito – we are in heaven. We thought that Tuscany would be a lot like our stay in France. The food and wine are good in France and Italy and they both drive in that same insane way – but the country-side is actually more beautiful and interesting in Tuscany. There are so many contrasting shapes and colors and such a great variety of vegetation like the trees – the long slender upward sweep of the cypress tree or the billowing top of the umbrella pine – plus the homes, castles, and forts that seem to be in every village or on top of every high hill in view.
Sunday, May 21st Monte Oliveto Maggiore – La Befa – Murlo – Buonconvento
We attend the Sunday Mass at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. This picturesque abbey is surrounded by cypress trees and after squeezing into the last parking spot (thanks for the small car) we walked down the paved street to the main cloister (church) of the abbey which was founded by a group of wealthy Sienese merchants in 1313 – Benedictine Rule. There were frescoes of St. Benedict’s life lining the main cloister. Inside the main church the ceiling has frescoes and the walls are white with abundant gold trim. In the back of the church was a choir dressed in matching plaid vests – we are guessing that they were guests.We sat in comfortable chairs beside the beautiful wooden intarsia choir stalls lining the sides. The wooden inlays are details of musical instruments, landscapes, and geometric patterns. The 20+ white robed monks sat up front by the altar. There were enormous candle sticks (6) on the rerdos behind the altar (in fact we discovered that all of the churches – large and small had six candles on or near the altar). The monks sang the Gregorian Chant and the effect was stunning. We could follow the service even though it was done in Italian. We really wished we understood the language when the homilist’s voice rose in an excited manner. And yes we did take communion as good Anglican “Catholics” should.
Incense was used for “cleansing” throughout the service and we felt sorry for the monk that had to handle the sensor – we wonder why he wasn’t choking with his head constantly in the smoke. The whole effect was really very spiritual and we were so glad that we came this Sunday morning.
We had lunch at La Befa Osteria. It was in a very “out of the way” area that we would never have gone to if it hadn’t been recommended through IdyllChat. We sat in the garden patio – pleasant (not beautiful) and had a very good meal – 1st course gnocchi with mushroom sauce for M and pasta with meat sauce for Pete – 2nd course was grilled beef, chicken, and rabbit – along with a salad with vinegar and oil, bread and mucho red vino – our cup runeth over with the local red wines – the are very good. We ate and drank too much, but it was so good we couldn’t stop ourselves. Our English speaking waitress was very attentive and helpful. After lunch we drove to Murlo to see the Etruscan Museum – but it was closed for renovations for the year. We took a different route home and actually found a couple of straight stretches of road that allowed us to actually reach the legal speed limit (55 mph).
See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart
Monday, May 22nd – San Gimignano
We left late in the morning for San Gimignano – the city with 14 towers (originally there were over 70 towers and 5 gates into the city). We followed Harriet’s instructions for driving to Florence, taking the 4-lane autostrada outside Siena and then getting off at Poggibonsi and following the road signs to San Gimignanno. The traffic was heavy and yet we are not fully into the tourist season. We found an attended car park ($1 an hour) and walked up the hill to the Porta St. Giovani.The streets were crowded and lined with lots of shops on our walk to the central plaza “Della Cisterna” which has a well that has been used since the 13th century. If you walk around the well it will insure that you will return to this city. There were lots of young people in the square, doing what young people do, and several groups of school children, all wearing the same color baseball cap.
Before lunch we visited the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of St. Mary) – a 12th century building built in the Romanesque style. The interior middle aisle is accented with blue and white stripes and stars in the ceiling. The north aisle wall is covered with a cycle of frescoes illustrating the old testament and the south aisle has a series of frescoes illustrating the life of Christ. Also in the church is a chapel dedicated to a local Saint – Serafina.
For lunch – a couple of sandwiches at a café at the central plaza – then a visit to the civic Museum and Tower – the tallest tower in the city, but we only went part way up. The museum has a hall where Dante made a speech and many frescoes from the Sienese School that are a bit “naughty” – bathing and bedding a la fresco – all the other works are 99% religious.
As we walked some more through the streets Pete became the target of a direct hit by a church pigeon – splat! Right on top of his head – but it blended in well with his gray hair and M was nice enough to clean him up. Also of note – we saw in many stores “sexy pasta” for sale – made in the shape of male private parts. Instead we stopped for the best Italian treat of all – Gelato – chocolate and caramel – yum yum yum for your tummy!!!
At 4:30 pm we headed back home with a stop for supplies on the way and by 6:00 we were having wine and cheese, reading the newspaper and listening to the sheep in the far pasture ready for a simple meal at home tonight. After supper we went for a walk around the Ginotti property and then sat with our neighbors from Texas and talked and drank wine until 10:30pm. We saw fireflies (which we had not seen since our summer days in Kansas).
Tuesday, May 23rd Montepulchiano, Pienza. and Radi
Changed our linens and ate a big breakfast – those fresh farm eggs are a treat! Then we were off to Montepulchiano. It is a beautiful hill-top town with very few tourists. We were pleasantly surprised by the cathedral – which didn’t get much of a mention in the tour books – but which we would have given a high rating.Once again, the six big candles on the altar and a beautiful reredos painted in 1401 by Taddeo di Bartolo. Elegant statues flanked the high altar and an interesting piece of terra cotta by Andrea Della Robbia in the 14th century baptistery. In the central piazza there is a lovely well with 2 lions supporting the Medici coat of arms. We bought a “vino nobile” after some “required” taste testing.
We returned to Pienza for lunch. This town (Renaissance) was planned by Pope Pius II and has beautiful flowers. We have not had good luck in finding restaurants in our two tries here but did enjoy a bruochette and a good red wine. We then treated ourselves to some heavenly Gelato and hurried home to change for the Idyll sponsored wine tasting party.
On the way to the party in Radi we finally got through on the public telephone to the Uffizi Museum in Florence and made our reservations. The party was great – everyone gathered in this little village at its only restaurant to share our adventures and learn more about the wine making business. They also served us an antipasto with bread, pasta with a spicy tomato sauce and a very dry sweet cake with chocolate on top. We were given instruction on the various wines in the area – beginning with the Chianti Classico (aged 1 yr in oak vats), the Russo is least expensive, but good. Nobile – a little more expensive and aged longer in the oak vats (1-3 yrs) and the most expensive – Brunello ($30-$50) is aged for 5 years. Chianti is made from 4 different grapes – not a blend of already pressed grapes – 2 red and 2 white grapes. Anymore it is made 98% from one red grape and 2% from the other three.. Home again to read the newspaper under our grape arbor, listen to the sheep in the meadow, the rooster and a multitude of birds and enjoy our spectacular view.
Wednesday, May 24th Siena
Up and out of the apartment earlier than usual for our visit to Siena – the town that gives the color its name. We had been given excellent directions by Harriet and had little trouble finding the new parking garage and the new escalator that took us up and up and up and came out behind the San Francisco church. Our main goal in the morning was to find the Siena Market – it was market day!! Our map and a friendly policeman (they look so good in their dark blue uniforms) kept us in the right direction. Suddenly literally miles of stalls in several rows and thousands of people shopping for food, flowers, material, hardware, shoes, dresses, leather goods, underwear – you name it they were selling it at the market! We found two nicely decorated pasta plates (we found the shapes of the plates that were used to serve the pasta interesting) and two tablecloths – and of course looked at hundreds of other items. After an hour or so we left the market area and made our only concession to the USA and had a coke and cooled our heals at a McDonalds – and watched the people for awhile.We then headed for the Duomo and once again ran into our friends from Texas – Bill and Nancy. They asked us to have lunch with them and took us to a restaurant that they had eaten at years ago. Ristorante Medio Evo was very nice and probably one of the best meals for the least amount of money on the whole trip.
Pete had braised lamb and fried potatoes and M had pasta and salmon in a cream sauce – we also shared two bottles of wine and the entire bill was $61.00 for four people. We had a good meal-time conversation and learned some more about these folks from Texas. One thing we learned dramatically was that Nancy hates the smoke of cigarettes. A group of German people came and sat at the next table – behind Nancy and immediately lit up. Soon the smoke was drifting over Nancy and suddenly – without warning – she got up out of her chair and started flapping her linen napkin frantically to clear the smoke and announced in loud voice for all to hear her displeasure with rude people who smoke in restaurants. The looks from the other table could have killed and they seemed to intensify their puffing as Nancy sat down.
It was really quite funny and the highlight of our lunch. No blows were struck – fortunately the lunch came for the Germans and the cigarettes were snuffed out and we left before they lit up again. We parted company and went to on the Piazza Del Campo – the huge central plaza – It has the public house and tower on one side and we looked in on the first floor but decided to move on to the Duomo – or so we thought. We went in the back and paid admission but found ourselves in the Battistero San Giovani, which is the baptistery under the apse of the Cathedral (Duomo). But it was actually very interesting and the small room allowed us to take in close-up the splendor of the art and craftsmanship of the décor. We then walked around the to the very ornate front of the Duomo – and for free got to see another masterpiece of Italian architecture and art dedicated to the Roman church. It really is stunning and takes time to take it all in – the pulpit, for instance, is carved marble with 8 panels depicting events in the life of Christ.
We then returned to the Basilica di San Francesco for a much closer look. A really beautiful church and in it a special chapel to honor some consecrated hosts (bread wafers) that are still fresh after 250 years – now in Italy, the land of dry bread and cakes – that is a real miracle!! Back down to the car – the escalator only goes up – not down! and then M drove us safely home – where we are welcomed by a cool breeze.
Thursday, May 25th – Assisi
The weather continues to be sunny and warm – each and every day! Off before 9 am. We followed Mr. Ginotti’s directions and made it in less than two hours. The part of the drive from the Olivetti Abbey to Asciano was spectacular – very high, very curvy, and narrow road but views. There were a few questionable intersections, but with a navigator checking the map, road signs, and sometimes our sixth sense, we kept on course. We found a cheap attended parking lot and then hiked up through the central part of town to the upper basilica of Assisi – which was built between 1228 and 1253. Many frescoes by Giotto and Cimabue line the walls. The upper set of frescoes down one wall tell stories from the old testament and on the other side were the gospel stories of Jesus’ life. These are from the 13th century and many have faded or have parts that are completely gone. The lower panels on these walls were scenes of St. Frances’ life. They were all magnificent – although we joked that the halos looked liked golden paper plates – they were three-dimensional to the fresco. But the total effect was lovely.It is hard to see where the earthquake did its damage – but there are some ceiling frescoes that are completely gone. The basilica has only recently been reopened to the public. The church was built in the shape of a Roman cross. Behind the wooden choir stalls (102 seats, all with inlay work) in the apse are fresco scenes of Mary’s life done from 1491 to 1501. In the Transept are crucifixion frescoes – also magnificent – but faded. The tomb of St. Francis has a chapel altar built around it. A service was being conducted so we continued on to the lower church which has a series of chapels, a nave, and 2 transepts. Again there were frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue and Martini. Several nativity frescoes looked very familiar – with golden cherubs and a stable (not a cave) and of course, all of the animals. St. Francis, who is known for his love of all creatures was in one fresco in the upper church with the birds – it is the one that is most copied.
There were many monks in brown robes and sandals moving about. We enjoyed watching 2 Franciscans using sweeping gestures and great attentiveness in describing the frescoes to a group of 3 young and pretty girls. For a substantial fee you can hire a monk to guide you through the basilica.
By this time we were hot and ready to find some lunch. We meandered back to the central square – with Pete patiently waiting outside stores while M looked for gifts and something for the Christmas tree. Pete asked a policeman for directions to 3 restaurants we had written down – he continues to admire their uniforms. The policeman was most helpful and we made our way to the Taverna del Consoli where we enjoyed wine, bread and pasta – Pete’s with mushrooms and M’s with ground pork. We sat on the restaurant terrace with the pigeons for company. The only bad part being the pigeons landing on the recently used tables to pick at the crumbs left behind. They were shooed away by the waiters, but it was an impossible task. But they did put clean table cloths on the tables before serving new customers. Below was a lovely plaza with a well and fountain.
After lunch we took some pictures of the ancient Minerva Temple building built (they think) between the 1st century BC and 1st century AD. Then back to the car and home again by a slightly different route as the streets in Asciano confused us and we had to make two attempts for the right road.
We stopped on the way to take a picture of a lone umbrella pine on a hillside – and along came an old man using a cane and missing most of his teeth, but with a wonderful face, chattering away to M in Italian. She finally was able to say that she did not speak Italian – only “Inglese.” This didn’t stop him – he leaned into the car with a big smile and said loudly “Signora!” and waved goodbye. Why didn’t we get his picture??
See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart
Friday, May 26th – Florence
We were off by 9 am – after a gas stop at Georgio’s and mailing post cards at the post office. The directions we were given by Harriet were excellent and in 90 minutes we were parked (free parking) at the Piazzale Michelangelo. Pete commented as we were driving in about the sleepy/bored people in the many tour buses with the guide at the microphone – we are glad that we do not have to do bus tours anymore and have found UnTour.The view from the parking area was over the city – beautiful despite the smog. We headed down to the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio – the walking bridge which looks from the one side like multicolored dwellings. Butchers and other shop keepers used to be on the bridge and they used the Arno River as their sewer. Today it is mostly artisans – mainly goldsmiths. We went to the Uffizi and found an enormous line waiting to get in. We found the reserved ticket office, picked up our tickets and were told to show up at 12:45 and we could go right in – thanks again to Idyll’s advice about making reservations. At our appointed time we entered the Galleria Degli Uffizi – got an English audio and started our tour. The building was built in 1560 to house the offices of the Medici administration and has two parallel wings joined at one end. You progress through the 42 rooms of the upper level and move chronologically through the art history of Italy, beginning with the Tuscan Primitives, then the Sienese School, the Florentine years, the Renaissance, a gallery devoted to Botticelli, a da Vinci room, Umbrian Art, the German Renaissance, rooms devoted to Michelangelo, Raphel and Titian, and ending with the Flemish School of Art. It all flows logically and you can easily see (and hear on the audio) the changes in style and technique.
We were so hungry that we went to the museum café and paid really inflated prices! Back on the streets of Florence we revisited a vendor we had visited earlier to secure some Christmas presents for Jane and Amy – and yes Margaret too! The streets were teeming with locals, school kids, teens, vendors, and tourists. We walked to the Cathedral, but decided that we had seen enough of the insides of churches for awhile. Pete had noticed a newspaper announcement of a photography exhibition of photos taken of “lovers” in Paris – all black and white. He had marked the map earlier and we found ourselves close enough and quickly found the gallery. The photographs were wonderful – so expressive and some quite humorous. We then continued our walk and found a gelateria and got some of that life saving ice cream – this time in a glass with two spoons – yum yum! Then a long hot walk back up and up to where our car was parked. Then headed back to the 4-lane highway through the busy Florence streets with motor bikes buzzing around us like a swarm of bees.
Back in Buonconvento we headed to Mario’s for our free Idyll dinner (thanks to Hal). We ran into another Idyll couple from California (Doc and Audrey Williams from Cambria) and they led us through a back alley to the newly discovered patio behind Mario’s. The four of us had a 2 hour dinner and at the end we were joined by a large group of locals who were just starting their supper at 9:30 pm. Another fine day in Tuscany.
Saturday, May 27th – Buonconvento and Murlo
This was a day for relaxing after two very busy days with lots of road travel. We went into Buonconvento around 11:30 to see the classic British, German, French, and Italian sports and racing cars rallying in the “Miglia 1000.” Buonconvento was a rest stop for the cars on the way to Siena and they came roaring down the main street and then parked in a big grassy area behind the old city walls. The cars were of every age and description – antique racing cars to very new and expensive sports cars – Pete was in heaven and M was being overcome by the noise and exhaust fumes – so she sat in the park while he wandered among the cars. For lunch we drove to Murlo and the Pizzeria Del Areo Ristorante for a delightful meal and conversation with Doc and Audrey Williams. We sat on the glassed in patio overlooking the surrounding country-side – it was breath-taking! The couple from Atlanta – Michael and Paula came over to check the route that we had used to Assisi and then they invited us back to their apartment for a liqueur and cookies that you could dip and we were joined by Roy and Susan, another couple from Georgia sharing that large apartment.See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart
Sunday, May 28th – Portiglione and Massa Marittima
This morning it really looked like it was going to rain – very cloudy and misty looking – but we drove out of it into the sunshine again! First we headed for the Mediterranean Sea and then back-tracked to Massa Marittima. We followed the special instructions given by Mr. Ginotti and the trip only took 2 hours one way over some of the most interesting vistas in Tuscany and by far the most curvy roads we have ever been on. We came to the coast at Follonica and then went south a ways – really looking for some fish for M to have for lunch. We settled on the village of Portiglione and did some walking around the fishing boats and then down to the sea shore. Then we saw a sign for a hotel that had a restaurant – “L’Oasi” – and we got seated just before a very large crowed of Italian tourists arrived for lunch.They had lots of fish on the menu, but we really had no idea what kind of fish it was. M ordered the one with the most interesting Italian name and Pete stayed with the good old reliable pasta dish – except what would he have on top of it?? In response to his questions the waitress finally went into the kitchen and came back with a plate on which rested a single clam and a single oyster to show two of the possibilities – Pete went with the red sauce! M’s fish was complete with head and tail and was not of a recognizable variety. The lady who served the fish indicated that she would prepare it for eating and she took off the tail and then the head – which she offered to M, but M replied “No – give it to the gato!”
We then drove back to Massa Marittima to be sure and get there with plenty of time to spare before the start of the twice a year (May and August) Balestro del Girifalco Pageant – we needn’t have worried. The Italians seem to take their time with everything – except driving. We parked at an attended lot next to the church and the central piazza where the pageant would be held and walked around the town a bit. When we came back to the piazza it was blocked off and we discovered that we needed to buy tickets to even sit on the steps of the church.
We joined a British couple who had been staying in the town and who gave us some history of the event and the town. The church was temporarily holding the mortal remains of a Saint who originally came from the town – his body was brought back every 20 years during this event.
Unfortunately the church was locked and we couldn’t view the remains! We settled in on the top steps of the church and waited for the pageant to begin – the 4 pm starting time came and went – the stands had hardly any people in them and most people seemed to be very leisurely about getting into the piazza. We discovered that we were sitting in a section of people who were the cheering section for one of the groups who would be contesting in the festival. The city had three groups who were going to compete in a crossbow contest and each had their own cheering section, banners, coat of arms, and colors. Our group’s colors were yellow and blue and soon we had our faces painted in those colors, helped hold up a giant flag, and color cards – we tried to join in the songs, but couldn’t quite get the lyrics right – but we did cheer loudly at the appropriate times.
Finally at 4:40 – the mayor arrived with microphone in hand and began to speak. And he talked and talked until 5:20 – and we have absolutely no idea what he was talking about. But finally the pageant began. Everyone was in middle ages costumes and each competing group entered the piazza separately. Each group had drummers, flag and banner bearers, knights in armor, a fair maiden accompanied by a little girl, 8 crossbow archers, and other escorts – all very colorful. Then when all were in the piazza another large group entered marching at a fast pace – headed by herald trumpets and drummers and a large group carrying banners. When all were assembled a couple of representatives from each group went into the church to pay respects to the Saint and then came out and proclamation was read from a scroll. Finally a scarlet clothed Cardinal of the Roman Catholic Church gave a blessing. Then all of the competing groups left the piazza leaving the trumpeters, drummers, and banner bearers. The banner bearers gave a wonderful and spectacular show with the banners being waved and tossed into the air from one to another – sometimes at great distances – all accompanied by the trumpets and drums. A couple of fellows gave some excellent demonstrations of banner tossing and then one young man managed to juggle 5 banners at one time – he had to use his feet and legs as well as his hands and arms to keep them all going. This was all accomplished in the open air with a stiff breeze blowing through the piazza. Finally the men with the crossbows began competing. The target was 100 yards across the plaza on the side of a building – it was a picture of a falcon and a cone shaped small receptacle was placed in the middle – it seemed rather small! The archer would place his crossbow on a stand and then sit on a bench with the back of the crossbow on his shoulder. Another man would load the arrow and cock the bow – ready to be released by a trigger. The archer took careful aim and suddenly the arrow was flying across the piazza and more times than not hit dead center in the cone! It was obvious that they had practiced for this event! We left around 7 pm – before the archers had finished – so we don’t know how the yellow and blue team did. Back on the winding roads we were home again by 8:30 – another interesting day in Tuscany! Oh yes – the key to driving in Italy is to pass the car in front of you at any opportunity – particularly on a curve – that is after sitting on your bumper for awhile to get to know you better!
Monday, May 29th – Montalcino and Buonconvento
Another relaxing day. We went up the mountain to Montalcino. Looked in the old fort and church and bought a few items in their extensive wine and cheese store. We have a delightful lunch in the Il Moro restaurant. Good food and we wish we had known about the back room that overlooks the city. We came back to the apartment and had a nap – that lunch wine can sure make you sleepy – and then went down to Buonconvento and people watched – trying to get some photographs of the locals on their bicycles and with their children. The time between 5 and 7 pm seems to be the town social time.Tuesday, May 30th – Chianciano – S. Quirico d’Orcia
Our last day in Tuscany – we were not sure what to do – so we went into town and filled up with gas and said goodbye to Georgio and then headed south of the SS#2. After driving awhile we saw a road heading for Chianciano and simply headed in that direction. The drive was beautiful – with a great variety of trees, clay hillsides, green fields, mown hay, wild flowers, and singing birds.We reached Chianciano and drove to the central plaza and parked and walked around that area. This is the city where people spend large amounts of money to get cured of every possible ailment in the healing waters of the many spas. The stores were all upscale, fashionable and pricey – so we resisted the temptation to buy.
We then drove on to S. Quirico d’Orcia and had lunch at the Trattoria al Vecchio Forno – walking into the center of town to find it – you have to look closely for the signs. M had suckling (sucking) pig and Pete had the Florentine Beef (actually a very large t-bone) and we shared some broiled potatoes and wine. This place was very pleasant, but very expensive $40 – but worth every Lira. We returned to the farm and started to pack when Bill and Nancy invited us to their apartment. They have a nice sitting room shared with another apartment and a fire place and a good view. We joined them for our last Tuscany dinner on the patio at Mario’s. We packed our bags and set the alarm – off to Rome in the morning!!
See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart
Wednesday, May 31st – Chiusi – Rome
We said our last goodbyes to and the Ginotti’s. Hard to believe that our Tuscany adventure is over and now we are off to Rome. We drove to Chiusi and left our car with Avis across the street from the train station – also leaving behind $134 for the extra insurance we had to carry on the car. We caught the 10:09 express train and were in Rome by 11:15. We had read so much about the care that must be taken because of pickpockets and we did take care and had no problems. At the Rome station we were approached, as forewarned, by people trying to get us accommodations and unauthorized taxis (which charge about 3 times what they should). We stood in line for the “proper” metered taxi and after twisting and turning through the horrendous Rome traffic we were at the Hotel Lancelot.The hotel seemed like an oasis on this very busy narrow street – the hotel has a most attractive interior and all of the staff speak perfect English. We are on the top floor in room #61 – it is a tiny room, but has a lovely terrace where we can sit and it overlooks the Colosseum (which is about three blocks away) and in the distance you can see the dome of St. Peter’s church at the Vatican. After unpacking and resting a bit we decide to walk to the Colosseum. The staff is most helpful – the receptionist L. Kahn and her brother the cook – Faris Khan. Faris asked that we leave our key at the desk and suggested putting our credit cards, passports, and other valuables in a hotel safe box – only carrying enough Italian money for the day. So – somewhat reluctantly giving all our valuables away – yikes! – we headed out into the big city. The staff had told us that we looked like an easy target for pickpockets – so we were a bit nervous for a few days..
We stopped and picked up a sandwich, chips and a drink and had lunch in a park a few blocks from the hotel. Then we headed for the Colosseum and paid $10 – finding out later that seniors get in free!! The place is huge and ¾’s of the walls are still intact but the floor is gone. It was completed in 80AD and could hold 50,000 people. There were many contests between man and beast – but they now believe that it was only a myth that Christians were fed to the lions. Then we took a long walk through the remains of the Roman Forum (not a building but a large area of temples and buildings) seeing the ruins of many buildings, temples and arches. It was warm but there was a small breeze that you could enjoy in the shade. The guide books say that this walk can be a “furnace” in the middle of summer. It is exciting to know such important historical events occurred and important people walked where we were now walking – reminded us of the Roman ruins we walked through in France.
Back to the hotel and into the tiny elevator (it held three slim people – and if you left any of the doors open it would remain stuck at that floor) to our sixth floor room and had a nap. We had dinner at the hotel (which actually was fairly reasonable if you were staying more than three nights - $25 for the two of us – breakfast is included with the price of the room – 250,000L per night) with about 50 catholic pilgrims from northern England. They were having a grand time – very conversational. They were nice to include us at one of the tables (the dinning room has round tables that seat 8 people). We had a nice three course meal of bow pasta with pesto, roasted potatoes, green beans, pork and a jam tart; plus a good supply of red and white wine and slightly bubbly natural water. After dinner we returned to our room to enjoy the sight of the Colosseum lit up at night and the lights of the Vatican in the distance.
Thursday, June 1st – Rome – St. Peter’s and Piazza Novona and the Pantheon and Plaza Venezia
We slept very well – had breakfast at the hotel and then got a taxi (Pete’s idea) to the Vatican Museum and our visit to the Sistine Chapel – NOT – the Chapel and Museum were closed on June 1st – it is Ascension Day! Plus the taxi cost us twice what Pete thought because of all of the heavy traffic and the meter just keeps on running! Thus began our long march (M thinks it could be called a forced march) back to our hotel – but with many many interesting stops along the way.First we walked around the wall of Vatican City to reach the large Piazza San Pietro (St. Peter’s Square) where 30,000 of the faithful can gather to hear and see the Pope. It is stunning – we sat for a long time (in the shade) taking it all in, then started to walk around the square heading towards St. Peter’s Basilica. Along the way Pete made note of the fact that when Japanese tourists are taking pictures of things they always seem to have another Japanese person standing in front of the object – one wonders if there is something in their culture that says that you haven’t actually been to St. Peter’s unless you are seen in a photograph!
When we got to the main entrance to the Basilica we discovered that it was open. Many people were turned away because they were not dressed properly – no knees and shoulders showing if you please! Pete was stopped inside – take off your cap! – Oh my – he had only put it on for the first time today to keep the sun off!
At the entrance to St. Peter’s is the famous Pieta sculpture by Michelangelo – which is now behind glass because some crazy man vandalized it 25 years ago. The main church is 200 yards long. Some of the special places that we enjoyed included: the great Papal Altar, which is under the Bernini “Baldacchia” which stands over 100 ft tall supported by four marble and brass columns and below the altar is the supposed tomb of St. Peter. The other main altar is St. Peter’s Throne, a 1655 bronze altar encasing an ancient wooden chair said to have been used by St. Peter while preaching to the Romans. Also of interest was the tomb of Urban VIII, which looks at a distance as if marble had been melted to flow like robes – but on closer inspection it is made up of thousands of pieces of marble joined to build the flowing curves. It, in turn, embraces a bronze skeleton that is holding an hour glass and is registering the death of the Pope in the “Book of the Dead.”
While wandering we saw a large room where dozens of Cardinals and Priests were putting on their vestments and a short time later – to the sounds of organ music – this same group came up the center aisle of the Basilica to begin a service at the chapel behind the Papal altar. It was a grand sight to see and hear.
From St. Peter’s we went into the square again and down the main street and had our first encounter with the “street people” or gypsy’s. A man approached us wanting to know if we spoke English – he was having some trouble with this gypsy woman over there – we just kept on walking. He certainly didn’t look like he came from an English speaking country – more eastern European – and we were sure that his intention was to distract us “helpful” Americans while picking our pocket. Sorry, all of our stuff is in the hotel safe!
We stopped for something to drink and sit in the shade – then with the help of a policeman and our maps we made it to the Pantheon – passing by a tempting fountain and pool in the Piazza Novona. The Pantheon was built in 27BC and was used originally to sacrifice and burn animals – the smoke going up and through a 27ft circle in the dome ceiling 142 ft above our heads. The base of the building is a 142 ft circle. As we sat on a bench taking it all in, someone put a scrap of paper at the edge of the shadow on the floor of the circle of sunlight coming through the hole in the ceiling – you could then actually watch the movement of the Earth around the Sun as the circle of sunlight moved across the Pantheon floor.
We continued our walk to the Palazzo Venezia – which is a very busy intersection that we had noticed on our taxi ride in the morning. There is a stand in the middle of the intersection and on the stand is a policeman dressed in white directing the traffic with his white gloved hands – desperately trying to smooth out the traffic chaos. This plaza is dominated by the Vittorio Emanuele Monument – regarded by some as the most flamboyant landmark in all of Italy. It was constructed in the late 1800s and at the top is the eternal flame burning for the unknown soldier.
We stopped at an outdoor café/pizzeria (under the cover of trees and other green plants) for lunch and a cool drink – the Colosseum is in view and thus our hotel is not far away – but just around the corner is a great Gelateria that adds some whipped cream to the top of your chocolate and creama gelato cone! Yum Yum! Then we figure out were the #81 bus to the Vatican stops near our hotel so we don’t have to look for it in the morning. We join the English folks for supper again – another very good meal. There has been a lot of walking today – but we had a wonderful day of sightseeing!
Friday, June 2nd – Vatican Museum – Sistine Chapel
We got an early start, taking the #81 bus and with some concern for pickpockets and not knowing the bus route and where it would stop – nowhere on the sign did it seem to indicate a stop near the Vatican. As we discussed this sitting at the back of the bus and passing unfamiliar scenery – a lovely young woman, who spoke very good English, reassured us that we were on the right bus. The last stop that the bus made was the Vatican and we found ourselves just a block from our destination. We lined up with hundreds of others at 8:30 and were in the museum by 9:00 (it opened at 8:45). The only irritation was when a couple tried to get in line ahead of M and with a dirty look she stepped back ahead of them. This apparently happens frequently – as it also happened to us as we were leaving and turning in our audio equipment. With the tickets bought our next crisis was renting the audio guides – we needed some form of ID to leave at the rental desk all of our ID was in the hotel safe. But M happened to be carrying a medical insurance card and they accepted it. The audio device was a godsend – it gave us so much historical information and details.After hurrying through the first few rooms of the museum which were of little interest we relaxed and realized we had all day and then went at a leisurely pace. The tapestries were enormous and of intricate detail. We also enjoyed the Raphael rooms with frescoes by the artist and his students; completed between 1508 and 1524. Then the many rooms of so called modern art (19th and 20th century). Pope Paul VI added American artists to this collection (12 rooms out of 55) which before had only held European art created before the 18th century. All the works chosen for this museum of modern art were judged on the basis of their spiritual and religious value.
Then came the Sistine Chapel – which has to stand as the high point of our visit to Rome. The Sistine Chapel is far different than we imagined it to be. There is a simple altar at one end, and a 2 level Roman floor and hundreds of tourists pointing their fingers and looking up. Along the sides are benches – and we sat for a long time to absorb everything in the room. The room does not look like a regular chapel where the focus is usually the altar (and many times a very ornate altar). The focus here is all on the frescoes. When you first walk in it looks very busy and the well known ceiling frescoes were small. It takes some time to separate it out and really appreciate it. Michelangelo was commanded to paint the ceiling frescoes by Pope Julius II. He did not want to because he considered himself a sculptor, not a painter. He worked on the ceiling from 1508-1512 and of course this stands as the most important work of his life. His frescoes are inspired by Genesis and are surrounded by prophets and sibyls. He glorifies the human body as only a sculptor could. He painted the Last Judgment on the altar wall – a fascinating huge fresco – when he was well into his 60s. God is sitting in judgment and sinners are plunged into the mouth of hell. On the side walls are frescoes by other Renaissance masters such as Botticelli and Perugino. They are of the life of Moses and Christ. We listened to the audio tapes several times because there was so much information to absorb.
It was humorous to hear the authorities try to keep the crowd quiet. They would clap their hands and shout “Silenzio!!” And occasionally a tape in about six different languages would come on reminding the crowd to be quiet. There would be a lull temporarily and gradually – just like M’s fifth grade classroom – the volume would rise.
We left the chapel and went wandering through the library of gifted objects and a variety of other rooms and then had lunch at the museum cafeteria – which turned out to be very good and reasonably priced – we recommend it! Then we took the #81 bus back to the hotel. We then had some time to think about and reflect on what we had seen today – sort of relive the experience without any distractions. It was a memorable experience.
We went to a local restaurant that we had noticed the previous evening on our walk – it seemed to be very popular. We had grilled lamb chops – roasted potatoes and wine. The lamb came with a sweet pepper sauce that was excellent. There was a young woman from California at the next table and we had an enjoyable conversation with her through our dinner.
Saturday, June 3rd Rome Sightseeing and Rome Airport Visit
Today will be remembered! Sleep was off and on last night as our neighbors sat outside on the patio and talked till 12:30 and then the hall light (which lights up our room through the glass doors) came on at 2 am and Pete had to figure out how to turn it off – it is automatic but can be overridden. Then they were up again very early this morning- chattering away.On the way to breakfast we asked the desk clerk to contact Sabena Airlines and confirm our flight back to Boston. She tried many times but no one would answer any of the numbers that she tried. She suggested that we try a travel agent in the area and gave us directions. No luck – the office was closed. Well – we figured that there might be a travel agent at the main rail station. Yes there was – and after a long wait in line she was able to confirm that the plane was full – duh! – but not that we had reservations. She gave us another phone number which we tried to call several times and got no answer. There seemed nothing else to do but go to the airport and find a real person associated with Sabena Airlines. So we bought rail tickets ($32RT) and stood on the main platform waiting for the departure board to indicate which track the next train to the airport was leaving on – they go every half-hour – and the time was growing close. Finally it came up – track 25 – but the tracks in our area ended at #24 – of course – track 25 was somewhere at the other end of #24 – a long way from where we were standing. We made the train with only a minute to spare. Then the thought crossed Pete’s mind – what if we had to pass through security – all of our ID – including passports were back in the hotel safe and we were on a train to the airport! If the train crashed no one would even find out who we were! Just a couple of unidentified tourists! Turns out there was no security check and we found Sabena. The Sabena man wanted to know what phone number we had been calling – it turned out to be the number of the phone that was right next to him! He said he must have been helping at the check-in counter when we called – yeah sure! When we asked about the strike in Brussels that prevented us from flying Sabena to Europe in the first place, he replied that it was settled but now there was a strike in Rome – Silence from us --- it was a joke, he said. No joke to us!
We had a bite to eat and then caught the next train back to Rome. On the trip in we had a nice conversation with a couple from Baltimore – that conversation came back into our lives later in the day!
We decided to take the subway to the Piazza Barberini – two stops away from the main train station. It took some time to find the right track and then we waited as more and more people showed up. Then the people packed train arrived and everyone pushed on and in the background we heard a policeman shout “Watch out for Pickpockets!!” – that was certainly encouraging to hear! The man standing next to us kept trying to get between us and Pete was keeping his eyes on the man’s hands. Then a young girl on the other side of Pete asked if he had any valuables in his travel vest (that vest that he always wears must be a sure target sign! a bulls-eye for pickpockets!) – He replied NO – Nothing!! And gratefully the train pulled into our station and we got off – very relieved – but of course we would have lost nothing – everything was at the hotel safe – BUT the experience left us feeling very uncomfortable.
Our goal was to get to the Cemetery of the Capuchin Brothers in the Church of the Immaculate Conception. Checking our trusty map we found the street and the church rather quickly. But it was closed until 3pm, so we went across the street to a sidewalk café to have something cool to drink and relax for awhile. While sitting there we noticed that some remodeling was going on in a store next to us and we watched a “worker” doing no work what-so-ever – he was too busy making comments to every young woman that walked by – other workers were cleaning up for the day – but he had only young girls on his mind and we believe, judging from the faces of the young women, that his comments were probably obscene and not very subtle!
At 3pm we went back and entered the strangest place we have visited in Italy – or anywhere for that matter! A cemetery within the church consisting of a series of “rooms” that had skulls and bones that were woven into mosaic “works of art.” Even the altars were made of bones – skulls, ribs, arms, legs – they used it all. The bones of 400 Capuchin monks were used and holy dirt brought in from Jerusalem. It is supposed to remind people of the fact that Christians had a rich and creative death cult for their dead and folks often preached with a skull in their hand! – but it still looked pretty strange!
We then went a few blocks to the National Gallery of Antique Art to see a special exhibit of the paintings by Goya. This exhibit had been gathered from private collections and museums (mainly the Prado in Spain). It was displayed in two large halls and the paintings were very large – mainly portraits and groupings of people; plus a couple of exceptional religious paintings – a crucifixion and an ascension that were outstanding. In the connecting hallway were about 25 smaller works – many of them showing a beginning “master” sketch and then the finished work – most of theme surrounding the theme –– of “desparate.”
Pete thought that he had a plan for finding a bus back to the hotel area – but as usual, he instead found a way to walk all the way back! We passed many government buildings with fancy-dressed guards at the gates. A policeman directed us to a street that would lead us back to the Colosseum – Yes, we could see it! So why not walk!
We bought a large bottle of cool water and M kept it close to her to cool off. Then on a long street leading to the Colosseum we had our second encounter with the “street people” of Rome. The couple we met on the train earlier in the day had told us of watching a relative robbed of his wallet by children with pieces of ice on pieces of cardboard. They would come up to you and place a piece of ice on your arm – distracted by the cold of the ice, they would then pick your pocket! We told them of the story we had heard about women tossing their babies at you – which of course you would catch and in the chaos of the moment your valuables would be gone. So here we are walking down this long street with no side streets and on the right we spot a group of children – school kids? – no they are carrying pieces of cardboard! We go to the left of the street and suddenly see three young women – two with babies!! It was tempting to turn around but with forged ahead and rushed past the women as they begged for money but did not throw their babies!
It was a pleasure to finally arrive at our favorite gelato store for a well earned treat. The cook at the hotel recommended a pizza place in the neighborhood – it turned out to be a place that we had picked out to return to last night.
The owner takes great pride in the placement of more tables during the evening outside on the sidewalk. He has his car parked pointed in at the curb and at just the right moment he will pull the car out and park it parallel to the street and set up four more tables. All the tables were full tonight. The cook says that he likes lentils – we will send him some from the Palouse when we get home. M is watering the plants on our hotel patio – it must be time to go home!
Sunday, June 4th – Sightseeing in Rome – Spanish Steps – Trevi Fountain
Our last full day in Italy. Our noisy neighbors of the last 2 nights left at 4:30 am, so we slept in this morning. After breakfast at the hotel we followed one of Frommer’s Walking Tours in his guide book to Rome. This was National Republic Day, so the roads were blocked off in the ancient Rome district so that a military parade could take place. There was a great show of military force with many different units – all with different uniforms. The most spectacular part was the jet planes flying over – 9 of them in a V formation – trailing red, green, and white smoke – the colors of the flag. We had planned to take the Metro or bus to the starting point of our walking tour – the Trevi Fountain, but nothing was running, so Pete got our his whip and got M to go on another long hike through Rome.Lots of people at the Trevi Fountain and it is very beautiful (made famous by the movie “Three Coins in the Fountain”). The church there contains the hearts and intestines of several centuries of Popes. YUK! We walked some quiet streets to the top of the stairs at the Spanish Steps. They got their name from the Spanish Embassy which was nearby in the 19th century. Young men and women used to line up on these steps and try and attract the attention of artists to hire them as models. Keat’s home is also at the foot of the stairs (he died in 1821 at the age of 25). We then walked along Via Condotti, which is lined with expensive shops of the Italian fashion industry. It was fun to window shop. We then walked down Via del Corso – less expensive shops, saw some interesting black marble – very modern – sculptures in one piazza and of course enjoyed watching the people. We weren’t sure whether Liberation Day or the Sunday brought out the people, but whole Italian families were out for a stroll or riding bicycles.
We had lunch in our favorite sidewalk restaurant, enjoying salads and cold drinks. It was cool with a nice breeze and the green leafed cover over our heads to keep out the sun. There were several American (Colorado and Florida) couples and one English couple near us with whom we visited during lunch. One of the topics of conversation was pickpockets – the Colorado couple had already been picked!
We returned to the same restaurant as last night – which is good and seems to be very popular with the local Italians. We had green salad that had on it only tomatoes, salt, and a very good olive oil – Yum! Then pasta (Pete had Lasagna) melon and wine. The bread in Rome is much better than Tuscany – they add the salt we need for our taste buds!
We can’t believe how lucky we have been with the weather. Not a drop of rain in three weeks and the temperature has been in the 70s and 80s and the nights always cool! We are delighted that we added on the trip to Rome and that we had set aside enough time to really see the sights that we wanted to see without rushing around. There is so much history and art here – the only downer was that we had to be on guard so much. We will probably not return to Rome – but we will surely return to beautiful Tuscany again – perhaps in the fall of the year next time.
See photos at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phaggart